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Two 19x11 Square Setup Installs

AlbertD

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Given the torque curve, what's the point of going past 6500 RPM except to hold a gear longer to the corner instead of up-shifting only to double-down-shift? Don't get me wrong, I like the sound of high RPM too but it's not actually doing anything useful...
For me... going past 6.5k is circumstantial based on the course layout. If I can prevent an unneeded up shift by carrying a few hundred RPM, I will... I have found that it is quicker for me even if the torque curve isn't in the ideal range. A double downshift, doesn't add more time to the shifting process if done correctly. My car has a fairly stock torque curve. For someone with considerable mods that move the curve up, it may be more beneficial to shift later, but that inherently comes at the cost of a lot more heat and durability concerns.
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wazatataza

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Given the torque curve, what's the point of going past 6500 RPM except to hold a gear longer to the corner instead of up-shifting only to double-down-shift? Don't get me wrong, I like the sound of high RPM too but it's not actually doing anything useful...
Thats what the instructor and i discussed afterwards. most of the time it did happen to get that extra bit of edge to pass a car before the brake zone passed by. I noticed it would occur too after a downshift going too high into the RPM. i will definitely be upgrading engine cooling with either a moshimoto or FPP radiator. in addition i will add oil cooling. ill do the trans air ramp for piece of mind. i just ordered some new diff fluid too. thanks for the information you guys. really do appreciate it.

back on topic. whats the life expectancy on the front hubs with our set ups? i read many are upgrading to moog hubs?
 

shogun32

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i read many are upgrading to moog hubs?
Moog == Ford Performance (and I think also Ford stock 18+) hubs. It's just the 15-17 cars have bad bearings or bad assembly which leads to premature death. Somewhere is a pic of the FP part and it has the Moog part number stamped into it.
 

AlbertD

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Thats what the instructor and i discussed afterwards. most of the time it did happen to get that extra bit of edge to pass a car before the brake zone passed by. I noticed it would occur too after a downshift going too high into the RPM. i will definitely be upgrading engine cooling with either a moshimoto or FPP radiator. in addition i will add oil cooling. ill do the trans air ramp for piece of mind. i just ordered some new diff fluid too. thanks for the information you guys. really do appreciate it.

back on topic. whats the life expectancy on the front hubs with our set ups? i read many are upgrading to moog hubs?
My front driver hub is on it's way out and I am at 55kish miles. Been running this 19x11 setup for a majority of that time. Going to replace with a Moog.
 

BmacIL

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Given the torque curve, what's the point of going past 6500 RPM except to hold a gear longer to the corner instead of up-shifting only to double-down-shift? Don't get me wrong, I like the sound of high RPM too but it's not actually doing anything useful...
If one has an 18 manifold, the power peak is ~7100-7200, so shifting at a bit above that is beneficial for peak acceleration, as the power also does not fall off much at all like the 15-17 manifold.
 

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wazatataza

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My front driver hub is on it's way out and I am at 55kish miles. Been running this 19x11 setup for a majority of that time. Going to replace with a Moog.
My passenger side ticks when turning left. So yeah I figured mine would go out soon enough. I’m at 46k miles
 

wazatataza

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If one has an 18 manifold, the power peak is ~7100-7200, so shifting at a bit above that is beneficial for peak acceleration, as the power also does not fall off much at all like the 15-17 manifold.
I have a ported 18 mani. GT350 CAI and TB. LT. so that’s kinda why I would shift way up there. The car would keep pulling all the way through, but I would over heat doe to lack of cooling with that use
 

shogun32

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The car would keep pulling all the way through, but I would over heat doe to lack of cooling with that use
It would be fun to calculate the BTU/sec at various RPM points and plot that against BTU/sec able to be shed at various road speeds. Unless racing for money, I really don't see the point of going much higher once torque starts to fall off.
 

BmacIL

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I have a ported 18 mani. GT350 CAI and TB. LT. so that’s kinda why I would shift way up there. The car would keep pulling all the way through, but I would over heat doe to lack of cooling with that use
Definitely no reason to shift beyond 7350-7400.
 

Norm Peterson

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It would be fun to calculate the BTU/sec at various RPM points and plot that against BTU/sec able to be shed at various road speeds. Unless racing for money, I really don't see the point of going much higher once torque starts to fall off.
I guess that would be a strategy in cases where you'd be concerned with fuel efficiency (peak torque rpm being better on a BSFC basis). But for best performance you want to be up around peak power.

Peak torque ==> best acceleration in any given gear irrespective of speed
Peak HP ==> best acceleration at any given speed when geared appropriately
Not the same thing.


Norm
 

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ACmedderss550

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If anybody is local to the Chicago area (or open to driving a little bit), my setup will soon be up for sale.
Project 6GR 10s in Gloss Black
19x11 +24 front - 305/30/19 Hankook Ventus V12 (no spacer required)
19x11.5 +56 rear - 325/30/19 Hankook Ventus V12
With proper TPMS. Just thought I'd throw it out there if any of you aggressive track setup guys were interested. Lots of pictures have been posted in this thread above!
Do you still have these for sale?
 

Chawilo

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What’s up guys I was wondering if I can slap on 19x11 square set up with no spacers up front

+50 offset with 295/30r19
Stock suspension
2020 mustang gt base model.
 

hson10

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What’s up guys I was wondering if I can slap on 19x11 square set up with no spacers up front

+50 offset with 295/30r19
Stock suspension
2020 mustang gt base model.
as many have said, +50 will not clear the strut - you'll need at least a 20mm spacer up front
 

Chawilo

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as many have said, +50 will not clear the strut - you'll need at least a 20mm spacer up front
I was a bit confused. I’m new to this style set up
Thank you very much. I’ve already ordered 25mm spacers but they are being delayed
And I was just anxious too see the wheels on my car.
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