Car is dead - Need help

[WildHorse]

Well, you're only eight quiet hours away from it not being a problem...

Yes Sir. But what's the difference from hooking it up to the ground on the battery vs grounding somewhere on the body? It's all a closed circuit no? My volt meter across the batt terminal is 13.1v, holding it to a ground on the body is still 13.1v?

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[JAJ]

Yes Sir. But what's the difference from hooking it up to the ground on the battery vs grounding somewhere on the body? It's all a closed circuit no? My volt meter across the batt terminal is 13.1v, holding it to a ground on the body is still 13.1v?

The BCM measures current in and out of the battery and keeps a running total over the life of the battery. It resets its opinion of how charged the battery is whenever it can with the eight hour thing, but overall it knows when the battery is discharging or not. The current sensor that enables all this is a ring-shaped gizmo on the wire between the battery and the big ground lug that's on the passenger side front strut housing beside the fuse box. If you look down that wire, you'll see it. So, if you connect the negative lead of your charger to the bodywork, the sensor detects the current flowing through that wire and records it. If you hook directly to the battery, the sensor is bypassed.

 

[WildHorse]

If you hook directly to the battery, the sensor is bypassed.

Thank you Sir for the comprehensive explanation! 5000 internet points for you!

 

[UnhandledException]

Looks like there is a “125” etched on the hot post in the top center area of this picture of the fuse box. If someone tried to jump start the car via this post instead of hooking up directly to the battery, they would probably fry a fuse below it. What I don’t know is if this can be replaced individually or if you have to replace the whole fuse box.
I can’t find a part number for this item individually.

So maybe thats why they are saying entire fusebox needs to change.

how hard is it to do this? I see 3 cables attached to it via small hex bolts. Is it simply disconnect those, remove fuse box, put new one in?

 

[Tank]

Ummmmmmm.... shhhhiiiitttttt.....

You’re fine. I’ve been using the CTEK for five winters now and the battery is the original (knock on wood).

Don’t worry about wiring directly to the battery but consider hardwiring to the junction box and ground for next winter.

 

[Tank]

So maybe thats why they are saying entire fusebox needs to change.

how hard is it to do this? I see 3 cables attached to it via small hex bolts. Is it simply disconnect those, remove fuse box, put new one in?

Before you go digging, I’d do the reset first and see how that works out.

Good luck!

 

[TxGT350-52]

You’re fine. I’ve been using the CTEK for five winters now and the battery is the original (knock on wood).

Don’t worry about wiring directly to the battery but consider hardwiring to the junction box and ground for next winter.

I used a Battery Tender on my previous car on a daily basis for 18 years. (Low mileage weekend car). The factory battery and the replacement battery each lasted 8 years before I had to replace them.

On my GT350, I keep it connected to the same BT whenever it is in the garage, so we will see how long this one lasts.

 

[WildHorse]

Don’t worry about wiring directly to the battery but consider hardwiring to the junction box and ground for next winter.

I got freaked out so I put the negative to the other ground on the strut tower. Good I hope?

 

[FDHog]

Battery tender is fine going to both battery terminals. It's only when you jump a battery that you shouldn't go to both.
I've had motorcycle batteries hooked up like that for years.

 

[Tank]

I got freaked out so I put the negative to the other ground on the strut tower. Good I hope?

Good indeed. That’s where I have mine.

 

[Tank]

@UnhandledException ,

How’s it going Matt?

 

[UnhandledException]

Its not going. I did the 8 hour reset thing, steering is still shot. At this point, I am 100% sure what the dealer said is accurate. I am trying to understand whether this 125amp fuse is a regular fuse that can be replaced or if its part of the entire fuse box and thats why the fusebox is replaced.

I spent some time in ford parts and could not find either the fuse box or this 125amp battery. If someone can help, I would really appreciate it.

 

[DCShelby]

Sounds like more of a power distribution bar in the fuse box, not an actual fuse. Porsche’s have the same thing. They can also go bad in Porsche’s if corrosion creeps in. People have had to get them replaced. Corrosion creeps in, rust forms and current draw goes up on the connectors attached to the bar. It may not be visible either. If something was loose inside it that would also cause problems.

 

[Tank]

Here's a PDF of the BJB with the HIGH CURRENT, ALWAYS HOT, 125A MIDI fuse is located. It is designated as "C1035C".

Also referenced in this box and associated with limited power steering modes is 5A fuse "F64".

I couldn't get the location diagram to print so I hope the outline of the BJB will help you identify. It is on the passenger side forward of the wheel well. You can google it.

Good Luck. I hope it fixes it for you.

EDIT: It's the same diagram @The Chairman posted. It is indeed the fuse he thought.

 

[Tank]

Here's @The Chairman 's BJB photo from another thread. The right most nut on the top of the box is the 125A fuse. You can see a faint 125 stamped onto the connection.

Also, F64 is the 5A in the middle of the bottom row on the right side of the box. 5 - 5 - 5 -5 - 10.

I'd pop that nut off and see how far you can go to remove the 125A fuse. Let us know how it turns out.

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