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Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

ponie1992

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They might call it launch assist. That’s what lund called it on mine. It’s 100% something that needs to be disabled. Went away completely after he disabled the right thing.
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That's crazy it's called launch assist, cause it's every gear. Either way, I'll mention that to them. Thank you man!
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aleccolin

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I've seen it called shift assist, which makes more sense. This is unique from the rev match feature (if equipped) that blips the throttle open for you on downshifts. Shift assist (should be called upshift assist) just delays closing of the throttle plate on clutch-in and is more for emissions than driveability. If you shift up at that point, it's all good. If you shift down, that's when it would rev match and actually move the throttle plate for you.
 

ponie1992

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I've seen it called shift assist, which makes more sense. This is unique from the rev match feature (if equipped) that blips the throttle open for you on downshifts. Shift assist (should be called upshift assist) just delays closing of the throttle plate on clutch-in and is more for emissions than driveability. If you shift up at that point, it's all good. If you shift down, that's when it would rev match and actually move the throttle plate for you.
Yeah, I used the term shift assist and Trevor said it's not in the tune. I sent another email stating it may be called launch assist. Either way, I described what it's doing, so I'd think they could figure it out. We'll see I guess.
 

RubberFeet

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Just getting ready to do the tremec kit install this week. You guys have been very helpful in the stage up. Only areas that are fuzzy are the software workout for the tune. Plan on getting with Lund to work that out.
OK.......about the rev lockout solenoid issue. Has anyone taken a grinder to bevel away the sharp edges? Just how much clearance bung is needed? Actual history here is would be appreciated greatly (db252?)

Also, has anyone else had a bit of an issue dealing with McLeod? I have the RST from the MT82 that the replacement 26 spline discs were handled thru MDL without issue, however, at first trying McLeod was a nasty exercise. I went with the Mcleod at first (mainly with ignorance) and was not really aware of "the world of clutches". If I was to choose today, I would go with the Tilton unit or the RAM. This has been a pricey exercise for sure. Like everyone else I went with MDL for the QA1 requirement. I seem to be duplicating db252 with the 2.66 setup, however I am staying NA. I have no interest in 1/4 mile stuff. If it doesn't go around corners, I lose interest in things instantly. 2015 PP. Have the machine weight down to 3570 with 2/3 tank. Mainly concerned with suspensio and unsprung/rotatioal masses cut. So far over $10K in suspension work not counting tire/wheel setups. Trying variety of 305/30-19 square tire choices

Anyway, main issue....clearance bung bashing...any hands on help is needed.

Thanks in advance
 

ponie1992

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Just getting ready to do the tremec kit install this week. You guys have been very helpful in the stage up. Only areas that are fuzzy are the software workout for the tune. Plan on getting with Lund to work that out.
OK.......about the rev lockout solenoid issue. Has anyone taken a grinder to bevel away the sharp edges? Just how much clearance bung is needed? Actual history here is would be appreciated greatly (db252?)

Also, has anyone else had a bit of an issue dealing with McLeod? I have the RST from the MT82 that the replacement 26 spline discs were handled thru MDL without issue, however, at first trying McLeod was a nasty exercise. I went with the Mcleod at first (mainly with ignorance) and was not really aware of "the world of clutches". If I was to choose today, I would go with the Tilton unit or the RAM. This has been a pricey exercise for sure. Like everyone else I went with MDL for the QA1 requirement. I seem to be duplicating db252 with the 2.66 setup, however I am staying NA. I have no interest in 1/4 mile stuff. If it doesn't go around corners, I lose interest in things instantly. 2015 PP. Have the machine weight down to 3570 with 2/3 tank. Mainly concerned with suspensio and unsprung/rotatioal masses cut. So far over $10K in suspension work not counting tire/wheel setups. Trying variety of 305/30-19 square tire choices

Anyway, main issue....clearance bung bashing...any hands on help is needed.

Thanks in advance
You'll need to hammer in the sheet metal to give clearance for the solenoid. Not sure what "bung" you're referring to.
 

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shogun32

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Mainly concerned with suspensio and unsprung/rotatioal masses cut. So far over $10K in suspension work not counting tire/wheel setups.
you need a separate thread on that...
 
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db252

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As Ponie said, measure the location out to where the reverse solenoid will end up at and then bash (precision wrenching term) that section of the body. We are talking about maybe a 1/4” of displacement to clear the solenoid. You have an opportune moment to make it happen much easier when no transmission is installed unlike my scenario.

You should be fine with the McLeod discs since the splines have been changed to 26 and your flywheel/and pressure plate are already mated to them. The Tilton unit was something we were going to try but we had some issues with two brand new flywheels not mounting to the stock crank (bore was too small on flywheel) and I’m in contact with them getting this issue worked out as I’m still interested in those results. Unrelated, they are also releasing a 23 spline clutch for the mt82 folks soon. I’ve installed many different clutches on these cars and have never had an issue in the past other than there’re inherent designs which don’t affect anything operationally.

Also your weight will go up slightly with the Tremec.
 

RubberFeet

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The 1/4 " dimension helps. Thanks. I was looking at your pic for the solenoid and trying to determine the contact point, hence the grinding option. That center section is pretty robust on the S550. Did you mention a ram or go with the big hammer method? And, yes, the tremec is a bit of weight compared to the MT82
 
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db252

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A small sledge should do just fine and a ram works also. I had to use a ram as my tremec was already in place.
 

revinto7

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Just getting ready to do the tremec kit install this week. You guys have been very helpful in the stage up. Only areas that are fuzzy are the software workout for the tune. Plan on getting with Lund to work that out.
OK.......about the rev lockout solenoid issue. Has anyone taken a grinder to bevel away the sharp edges? Just how much clearance bung is needed? Actual history here is would be appreciated greatly (db252?)

Also, has anyone else had a bit of an issue dealing with McLeod? I have the RST from the MT82 that the replacement 26 spline discs were handled thru MDL without issue, however, at first trying McLeod was a nasty exercise. I went with the Mcleod at first (mainly with ignorance) and was not really aware of "the world of clutches". If I was to choose today, I would go with the Tilton unit or the RAM. This has been a pricey exercise for sure. Like everyone else I went with MDL for the QA1 requirement. I seem to be duplicating db252 with the 2.66 setup, however I am staying NA. I have no interest in 1/4 mile stuff. If it doesn't go around corners, I lose interest in things instantly. 2015 PP. Have the machine weight down to 3570 with 2/3 tank. Mainly concerned with suspensio and unsprung/rotatioal masses cut. So far over $10K in suspension work not counting tire/wheel setups. Trying variety of 305/30-19 square tire choices

Anyway, main issue....clearance bung bashing...any hands on help is needed.

Thanks in advance
awsome transmission i did one too but 2:66 gear is way to steep for an NA car especially coming from a transmission with 3:66 1st and a 2:43 second ..you will need a 4:30 -4:56 gear just to make it run similar to how it was geared before ..
 

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Well, we'll see. As the MT82 1st gear is absolutely useless, The 2.66 is a calculated guess will be better than the 2.97. The other thing is a better spacing throughout the gearing. I am hesitating to call it a close ratio gear set, but it is a great deal better than the 2.97 gear set Time will tell. Very anxious to get into playing with it.
 

RubberFeet

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Well, got it in and am trying to get everything adjusted (whiteline shifter which is a bit confusing), And, yes. 4.09 gears are in the offing for sure. Saw on the Steeda page that 4.09 gears will not work with the Torsen LS. Anybody know more?
 

Ruiner46

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I've read this thread front to back a few times now and I'm still agonizing over making a gear ratio choice to order my Magnum XL.

2.66 or 2.97, I can't decide. I have a whipple with 3.73's and the car is mostly street fun with a little drag strip time occasionally.

Is anyone running the taller 0.74 / 0.50 - 5th and 6th gears? Interested to hear your thoughts on highway cruising at 75-85mph. Will the supercharger load and tall gearing make the engine bog down too much at 1800 rpm or so in 6th?
 

aleccesarenriquez

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I've read this thread front to back a few times now and I'm still agonizing over making a gear ratio choice to order my Magnum XL.

2.66 or 2.97, I can't decide. I have a whipple with 3.73's and the car is mostly street fun with a little drag strip time occasionally.

Is anyone running the taller 0.74 / 0.50 - 5th and 6th gears? Interested to hear your thoughts on highway cruising at 75-85mph. Will the supercharger load and tall gearing make the engine bog down too much at 1800 rpm or so in 6th?
You'll probably like the 2.97 with the 3.73s the most. I have the 2.66 with 4.10s and they were perfect for my Paxton at 750 whp

Edit: also forgot to mention to not stress about the long highway gears. They're only for cruising anyways. Engine is fine cruising at 1800 rpm
 

Ruiner46

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You'll probably like the 2.97 with the 3.73s the most. I have the 2.66 with 4.10s and they were perfect for my Paxton at 750 whp

Edit: also forgot to mention to not stress about the long highway gears. They're only for cruising anyways. Engine is fine cruising at 1800 rpm
Thanks for your thoughts. I keep changing my mind, but I think I've talked myself into the 2.66 gearing with the long 0.50 6th. I figure that 1st and 2nd are up in smoke on the street with the MT82, and 3rd is a beast that usually hooks. With the 2.66 gearing, 2nd is pretty close to 3rd, so I'm hoping to hook 2nd on the street. With the 2.97 I think 1st and 2nd would still be pretty useless on street tires.

For 5th and 6th, the tall gearing is the only option for lower highway rpm since the 0.62 6th is about the same as the MT82. With the 3.73 gears, it wouldn't hurt to be taller for the highway. Having the 0.5 6th is a little taller than having 3.15 gears in the diff.
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