2017 GT...time to supercharge

[96gt4.6]

I could be understanding this wrong.....but to my knowledge the Edelbrock warranty works just like the Whipple and Roush one do, which is that the warranty is 3yr/36000 miles from the original warranty start date. Also, doing this will void your OEM Ford 5yr/60k mile powertrain warranty.

Ex, you cannot install the kit on a car with 30k miles and have warranty until 60k miles.

Essentially, you have to have these kits put on when the car is new or near new, at a dealer or by an ASE Certified tech at a legitimate business, and then the warranty only lasts 3yr/36k from the car's original start date.

Edelbrock is the only company that offers this warranty for free vs Whipple and Roush which charge extra.

Here's Edelbrock's warranty info:

https://www.edelbrock.com/warranty

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[GreenS550]

This is what I understood as well. The Whipple warranty is $595 and it's good for up to $5,000 in directly related engine and transmission issues. I decided against it when I did the blower on my Bullitt because I wanted what I thought was the best supercharger kit and at the time Whipple have their own tune for the 19 and up Bullitts. I'm the guy that had the issue with it 2015 GT with a Magnuson he had such a bad experience and distrust for the installer they decided to do the Bullitt myself. I would say that the Edelbrock will give you slightly more low-end torque than the Whipple. When I spoke with the folks at Whipple recently, they told me they thought the 15 through 17 mustangs handled supercharging better than the 18 and up. I got a quote on the Whipple and the Edelbrock recently and the Edelbrock was $600 cheaper on the stage 1 complete kept for either. Mustang6g took a survey sometime ago and folks were split 50/50 on the Whipple vs. Edelbrock which tells me that they're both very good. The Edelbrock looks better with a cam covers though.

 

[96gt4.6]

I agree. Pretty much any kit on these cars seems solid. The only reason I did Whipple was due to the sale at the time, and my research indicated the tuning was pretty much just like OEM right out of the box with great results HP wise. For me, this has proven true. 1 year in now at 643 dyno'd rear wheel HP on their stage 1 kit, all stock otherwise. No tune revisions or changes, same tune it came with.

I was 100% looking at the EForce kit as well at the time.

Several days I wish I had went Procharger so you get that cockiness the centri cars have with their blow off and noise, very intimidating. The Whipple kit is so quiet and soft, you never know it's there and the blower whine is very light at best even with my all stock exhaust. Some days I wish the car would call more attention to what's done under the hood while driving around vs. being assumed you are stock until the go pedal is put down, quite annoying to get bothered by everything at the light that knows it can take a stock 5.0.

 

[robwlf]

my 17 is roush stage 1 . has been for 15k miles never a prob drives like factory till ya get into it im stage 1 atm... doing gt350 half shafts this spring then prob going stage 2 its perfect for what i use it for .. nice day car..spirited driving just fun and reliable , think im gunna go vmp for my tune and stage 2

 

[Jackson1320]

All of the blowers available can hit 600whp without sneezing. Any 2650 kit will pull hard down low and can make a lot more than your goal. Then will have plenty of room to grow when you are ready. I’ll bet you that time comes sooner than you think. Any centrifugal supercharger can also get you that goal but they make their horsepower higher in the RPM band and drive more like a stock vehicle in the lower RPMs. 600 is entry level for these cars. 850whp is when you need to start caring but anything less on a solid kit is considered daily driver level. I would think more about customer service reliability and if you live in a smog area emissions. Because power wise there all good

 

[hossman]

my 17 is roush stage 1 . has been for 15k miles never a prob drives like factory till ya get into it im stage 1 atm... doing gt350 half shafts this spring then prob going stage 2 its perfect for what i use it for .. nice day car..spirited driving just fun and reliable , think im gunna go vmp for my tune and stage 2

Robwlf VMP is the way to go to upgrade 15-17 Roush set ups. They did my upgrades and runs flawlessly.

https://www.vmpperformance.com/2015-Roush-767-HP-Upgrade-Package

 

[GreenS550]

Here is the dyno sheet. This is SAE which is usually somewhat lower than "STD". Note that the car hit the MPH limit so the sheet is cut off there. Since the Whipple pulls to redline unlike the Roush TVS 2300 I had on the '11, if the car were run to say 7,800 rpm, the run might have shown 650-675.

Just reading through these posts another member commented on the intercooler being better on the Edelbrock than the Roush. I know on my 2011 Mustang GT the intercooler looked small. Yet on a day of over 90F and dozens, and I mean dozens of 1/4 mile passes the car ran consistent times and never an issue with idling, etc.

The intercooler on the Whipple stage 1 is HUGE. Like another complete radiator. The stage 2 even larger. If the Edelbrock is similar then great. If the intercooler on the Roush is still small, that would be a deal breaker for me.

At the time I put the blower on the Bullitt, I wanted the safest setup I could get. I don't know about now, but at the time the Whipple was the only blower 50 state compliant.

I am looking hard at the Edelbrock for the '18. But the thing is so fast now (guessing high 11s, very low 12s) I don't know if it's worth it.

Much more valuable on the A6 than the A10. My A6 '15 loved boost. Too bad the installer screwed up the tune. BTW made only 553 rwhp on 11 PSI boost. Don't use a Magnacharger!

 

[MyFirst5.0]

i have a 16, just installed a vmp gen 3, it will get you 100 more hp than you want, but we always want more. you cant go wrong with the whipple or edlebrock, i went vmp because i live in flo, and it has the best heat exchanger available and seems like the most tq avail at low rpms. very happy with my my setup

 

[hossman]

i have a 16, just installed a vmp gen 3, it will get you 100 more hp than you want, but we always want more. you cant go wrong with the whipple or edlebrock, i went vmp because i live in flo, and it has the best heat exchanger available and seems like the most tq avail at low rpms. very happy with my my setup

MyFirst5.0 did you dyno it and if so what fuel and pulley setup?

 

[MyFirst5.0]

MyFirst5.0 did you dyno it and if so what fuel and pulley setup?

no dyno, but it was installed at vmp and tuned by them. cars like mine with full exhaust they said put down low 700s all day. this is a stock 88mm pulley and 93 octane

 

[Antilagged]

My 16 has a D1SC procharger kit on it, which it is a lot of fun. Granted the previous owner had it installed, but it made 628 whp and 550 wtq at the factory rev limiter and the stock 8 lb pulley. I had the option of picking up a roush stage 2 car as well but ultimately decided on this setup since you don't have to remove the strut tower brace or modify the k-brace. It's very docile cruising around just like a factory car and it's a whole different beast when you lay into it

 

[Jackson1320]

I don’t want to sound like a a$$ h@le but why does everybody have such low numbers. I run a little p1x with 3.6 upper and a 20% overdrive. Car put just under 900whp on water meth. I have sense added a few mods and am looking for 900+. All 2650 rotor pack superchargers can easily make 900 so why so low

 

[Beano]

I don’t want to sound like a a$$ h@le but why does everybody have such low numbers. I run a little p1x with 3.6 upper and a 20% overdrive. Car put just under 900whp on water meth. I have sense added a few mods and am looking for 900+. All 2650 rotor pack superchargers can easily make 900 so why so low

Simply because not everyone wants to risk their engines with 900rwhp? I have a VMP Gen3R on the shelf in the garage, with a selection of pulleys to make 700-> 1000rwhp. However, until I do a long-block build, I will limit my setup to 700-750rwhp max, as I see no need to do 900 and kill the engine.

Need to get 1050IDX and a fuel-system before I will replace my Roush setup.

‘Different priorities for different folks, I guess. I don’t drag-race, luv to do a squirt every once in a while on a rolling-start....not to many factory cars will keep up with you at those levels anyway. Even more silly to think it all has to go through street-tyres ....my current Roush setup has just over 600rwhp, and with the manual, it is a scary proposition when you step on it in anger, even in 3rd gear....so yeah, 700rwhp is going to be even wilder, not even want to think about 900.

I wilL leave that for the young and brave :lols

Just my 2c.

Cheers,
Beano

 

[beefcake]

Bought the car brand new ... car has right about 35000 miles and is at the end of the factory warranty. Car has been running a FRPP 2 since 2018...used to the power now and am looking for more. I am looking for reliable, turn-key, daily-drivable power, and that is why I am leaning towards the Roush Stage 1 supercharger, I am not looking to upgrade halfshafts, driveshafts, or engine internals or tax the transmission cause that will push me way beyond my budget and more than I want to do to this car. I would ideally like 600 WHP.

Am I missing something or is the Roush Stage 1 the one for me?

The Roush Stage 1 is a great option to get you to that 600 range. The drivability of the Roush blowers are great and as a daily driver you wouldn't need to worry about your internals, half-shafts or driveshaft. We could do the stage 1 or stage 2 package; or even a Whipple, Edelbrock, VMP, Procharger or Paxton/Vortech. Hit me up with any questions you have!

Terry "Beefcake" Reeves
Office - 855-TBR-RACE - Cell 513-478-1965
Owner Team Beefcake - 20+ Years Experience
Deal Directly with the boss, no pushy sales guys!!!!!!!
www.beefcakeracing.com - Your Forced Induction Specialists

 

[Jackson1320]

Simply because not everyone wants to risk their engines with 900rwhp? I have a VMP Gen3R on the shelf in the garage, with a selection of pulleys to make 700-> 1000rwhp. However, until I do a long-block build, I will limit my setup to 700-750rwhp max, as I see no need to do 900 and kill the engine.

Need to get 1050IDX and a fuel-system before I will replace my Roush setup.

‘Different priorities for different folks, I guess. I don’t drag-race, luv to do a squirt every once in a while on a rolling-start....not to many factory cars will keep up with you at those levels anyway. Even more silly to think it all has to go through street-tyres ....my current Roush setup has just over 600rwhp, and with the manual, it is a scary proposition when you step on it in anger, even in 3rd gear....so yeah, 700rwhp is going to be even wilder, not even want to think about 900.

I wilL leave that for the young and brave :lols

Just my 2c.

Cheers,
Beano

I understand not going 1000+ but you can dyno 900-1000whp just fine then turn it down for daily use that’s what I did until I built my engine

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