Good advise. You need to look at your total deal including the cost of your car, trade, rebates and financing. You also need to weight the cost of interest over the lifetime of the loan vs. the amount of the rebate. I've found that in most cases 0% financing comes out ahead. Why? The amount of interest my money is making by not giving it to Ford.
I don't mind paying 2-3% when I'm making 12-14% each month in the stock market. That's also why I don't pay cash for vehicles even if I have it. Debt in of itself is not a bad thing. Now paying 7-15% interest on a car that's depreciating at 9% a years is bonkers. Aside from 1% loans, I take the monthly div by 3 and then make the payment x4. Knocks a 18mo or more off the term.
I said 14% a MONTH, not year. I expect the S&P to crash 30% this year. Or at least I have options betting on that. But back to our regularly scheduled 'How to buy a Mustang cheap'.
Well, I sure wish I had gone short in the market. Nothing like a pandemic to make it happen a lot faster.
I expect the definition of a good deal will be changing a lot.
