Cylinder head temps - 2015 GT

[EFI]

Gotta wonder how accurate the temp is, too. I'm sure there's a few degrees variance here and there. Mine has gotten up between 210° and 220° if I've been driving for a while (everything is completely warmed up) and end up in a situation where the car has to sit for a few minutes. If I blast the heat the temp reading will drop down to about 207. Car nornally bounces between 200° to 203° when cruising, even during the winter, and only drops to 198 if the heater is on.

There's no reason to believe it's not accurate, unless the sensor itself is malfunctioning. Unlike oil temperature for example which is an inferred value based on other factors, the cylinder head temperature is read by a sensor directly in the cylinder head. While there may be variation from one head to the other and from the front to the back of the head based on coolant flow, whatever the temp is being displayed should be exactly the temp of the actual part.

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[Chris Barnes]

Man here in the AZ summer, with ambient temperatures around 115+.... i’ll See up 227-228 regularly.

Glad I'm not the only one that has seen these types of temps. Mine will run 215-220 cyl head temp on the freeway. It actually runs a bit cooler at slower speeds which is odd

 

[Cory S]

Cylinder head temps will always be higher than ECT as well. Cylinder head temps in the 197-228*F range is normal. 230-240 is getting slightly hot. 240+ somethings wrong........

 

[ChiTownStang26]

After installing the 170* Thermostat this summer my temps are never above 205 in 90* heat, ac on, stop and go traffic. It will usually sit at 195 in the summer.

Right now its winter in chicago and I average between 187* and 190* on the highway.

Simple and cheap mod I recommend for everyone. The engine pulls timing when CHTs get too high to protect itself.

 

[Kong76]

^ Sold..

 

[seth21w]

I think the performance pack cars must run slightly cooler due to the extra large radiator because mine usually goes to 209 then back down.

 

[TuxedoPC]

I used to see 219 on the Mishimoto 3 row upgrade, with the stock 180 thermo. Some people see 240+ on track CHT. If you want to most to cool down your cht, Reiche 170 thermo way to go. The hour it takes to do it is well worth it than the 6+ hours it takes to drop a radiator in.

 

[EFI]

Reiche 170 thermo way to go. The hour it takes to do it is well worth it than the 6+ hours it takes to drop a radiator in.

To be fair, the overall cooling a 170* thermostat brings compared to a larger radiator is not even in the same ballpark. It takes 1/6th of the time because it provides 1/6th of the cooling.

It's a good upgrade for those that see high CHTs on the street and live in a warm climate, but for those driving hard a bigger radiator is much better.

 

[EFI]

The engine pulls timing when CHTs get too high to protect itself.

And it works really well, so one should not be afraid of 220* CHTs with a little bit of timing pulled. And unless you plan on racing through traffic you will never feel 1* or 2* of pulled timing vs. running 205* CHTs.

 

[ChiTownStang26]

@EFI

Absolutely as you will not really loose hp/tq whether your at 27* or 30* as it does not make much difference on NA cars.

Although I'm not a engineer and have no idea if the countermeasures of retarding timing is sufficient enough to protect the engine, or at least minimize extra wear and tear.

Cheap Thermostat + gal of coolant = extra security for your 10k motor

P.S. The 170* is great for guys that track or autox as the CHTs can climb quickly after a lap or 2, not knuckleheads racing from red light to red light

 

[EFI]

Although I'm not a engineer and have no idea if the countermeasures of retarding timing is sufficient enough to protect the engine, or at least minimize extra wear and tear.

The timing countermeasures are mainly for eliminating knock that would otherwise occur in a hotter that usual engine. Timing does not really have much to do with the actual thermodynamics of the metal components. Any potential damage or extra wear and tear from components that are too hot will not really be alleviated by timing reduction.

Cheap Thermostat + gal of coolant = extra security for your 10k motor.

For sure. As a little bit of extra security the tstat fits the bill perfectly, however it's not a cure all magical thing that takes away all overheating woes.

 

[ChiTownStang26]

@EFI

Now that's some satisfying banter for once on this site. Thanks for info brother

 

[TuxedoPC]

To be fair, the overall cooling a 170* thermostat brings compared to a larger radiator is not even in the same ballpark. It takes 1/6th of the time because it provides 1/6th of the cooling.

It's a good upgrade for those that see high CHTs on the street and live in a warm climate, but for those driving hard a bigger radiator is much better.

No, im just saying value wise. I think the thermo brings better value.

 

[Nuked]

After installing the 170* Thermostat this summer my temps are never above 205 in 90* heat, ac on, stop and go traffic. It will usually sit at 195 in the summer.

Right now its winter in chicago and I average between 187* and 190* on the highway.

Simple and cheap mod I recommend for everyone. The engine pulls timing when CHTs get too high to protect itself.

I see basically the same numbers with my 170 thermostat and PP car. Also it is best to adjust the fan speeds if you change out the thermostat to get the most from it. Lund does this by default, so anyone with a Lund tune that wonders why the fans run so much, there is your answer.

 

[Phoenix]

i got cht up to 230 in bad bad traffic (iat was approaching 190 on a JLT intake). car then got a kenne bell and ran for 20k miles problem free. 217 is fine.

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