honeybadger
Just don't care
FWIW - here's a situation where gearing change would help me. 2nd has too much torque, but third results in the RPMs being too low.
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I assume you just use throttle management to keep wheel spin down and use 2nd. I would probably just use 3rd, save a shift and take it easy on the engine - accepting the fact that my lap times might be a little faster the other way but not worrying too much about it. But I was never after the best lap time possible.FWIW - here's a situation where gearing change would help me. 2nd has too much torque, but third results in the RPMs being too low.
Yeah, exactly. I didn't do a very good job of throttle management on that particular lap (obviously ), but even with a a more controlled exit you're leaving a 0.3-0.5 seconds on the table there since it's before the big straight. It's also doubly important for me because I am going from 30 to 153 mph in one straight and I have all that drag from the aero. It's absolutely brutal.I assume you just use throttle management to keep wheel spin down and use 2nd. I would probably just use 3rd, save a shift and take it easy on the engine - accepting the fact that my lap times might be a little faster the other way but not worrying too much about it. But I was never after the best lap time possible.
In general on a road course. lower gearing helps (to a point). In most cases, 1st gear is rarely used. Where gears help is acceleration out of the corner.. If this causes you to be out of the power band at the end of a straight, yes, it could cause you to loose top end or push another shift. But the 350 has such a wide powerband in the top of the RPM spectrum its not likely to hurt it at that end. Keep in mind, the power band is not governed by speed (0-30) but RPM. The faster you get to 3500RPM and stay between 3500 and 8200, the better off you are.On the road course (or anywhere else) gears will only help if they get you more into the middle of the power band more often. I think gears can help 0-60 on the GT350 (because 0-30 or so the Voodoo is way out of its power band), but I would be surprised if gears help on the typical road course. Maybe if the specific road course puts you in a poor RPM range and the gears will help you get to higher RPMs.
I guess if there are really tight corners where you want to downshift to 1st, steeper rear gears could help you utilize 2nd gear better?
The GT350 has tall gears and the strategy was to minimize the time lost shifting. I feel it works really well on the road course, but I would be interested to hear your thoughts in more detail.
I thought it needed a rear not a front?I feel like the 350 is one of the very few cars out there that actually has a massively dramatic change in changing out the front sway bar. Like woah...holy hell. I even felt the front end tighten up on the streets on say a curvier onramp.
Most other cars need tire, not giving your chassis and suspension all the Viagra and Cialis you can throw at it like most do.
Front bar, rear cradle support like the BMR lockout kit or Steeda subframe braces. But if I had to choose one, Front bar. I only go full stiff on my front bar on autocross too. Road courses, I go mid stiff, maybe even softest depending on the track.I thought it needed a rear not a front?
Which sway bars?Front bar, rear cradle support like the BMR lockout kit or Steeda subframe braces. But if I had to choose one, Front bar. I only go full stiff on my front bar on autocross too. Road courses, I go mid stiff, maybe even softest depending on the track.
+1Which sway bars?
Now that I've had more time tuning the chassis, my suggestion would be larger front sway bar (I'd go with Ford Performance for adjustability, but the R bar would work) and the BMR handling springs.+1
I'm interested in anything that makes this car handle even better.
I'm putting the BMR springs on mine. Looks like the FP bar is 37mm up front and only available as a package with the rear (is that needed?). BMR also has a front bar, 35mm hollow. Not stiff enough?Now that I've had more time tuning the chassis, my suggestion would be larger front sway bar (I'd go with Ford Performance for adjustability, but the R bar would work) and the BMR handling springs.
This well help combat dive under braking, reduce turn-in body roll, help make the car feel less float-y on turn in, and help you get on power earlier in the corner. @nastang87xx is right about the rear end too, stiffen that up to get more communication. Braces are good, bushings are better, IMHO
My car has the R front sway bar already (it's an R), so I guess I'm good there. My only concern with swapping rear bushings is that I don't want to do anything the next owner of the car won't want (I plan to sell in a year).Now that I've had more time tuning the chassis, my suggestion would be larger front sway bar (I'd go with Ford Performance for adjustability, but the R bar would work) and the BMR handling springs.
This well help combat dive under braking, reduce turn-in body roll, help make the car feel less float-y on turn in, and help you get on power earlier in the corner. @nastang87xx is right about the rear end too, stiffen that up to get more communication. Braces are good, bushings are better, IMHO