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Smokey613

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Even a proper lift is not a guarantee!!



The wrong way to use a floor jack.....

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CrashOverride

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The k member points just don't seem very solid and locked in to the stand as using the pinch welds. Not saying your wrong though bjstang. I'll never use 2x4 blocks. It's asking for problems. If your turn them the wrong way they will quickly split and cross grain they tend to bend until they splinter.
Most definitely regarding it being unsafe when running the pinch welds parallel to the grain. My blocks are a 7" long 2x4 on the bottom with two 3-1/2 inch blocks screwed sideways on top of the 7" long 2x4, so the pinch weld is perpendicular to the grain. It does indent about 1/8 of an inch, but it's far less than even some of the jack pads I've seen. That being said, next time I replace my tires, I'm going to keep one and cut the treads and screw it on top.

No matter what though, the good thing about this thread is that everyone appears to be very aware of the dangers of improper lifting techniques. If you can't have a buddy out there with you, make sure you have a cell phone just in case the car falls (And you are able to use your hand).
 

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Another positive vote for Rhino ramps. Used them countless times with four different cars for all kinds of things varying from oil changes to exhaust installation.
I have both types of Rhino Ramps - they make a heavy version for trucks and SUVs - use them for my Expedition.
I have always done most of my own repair and maintenance - except stuff needing very expensive equipment like tires and alignments, etc.
I have used them for all kinds of short and long repairs - even left my 06 GT on them overnight when I did my front differential seal (stinky job btw).
Low cars are a challenge to get up on the Rhinos.

But I also have the long 72" race ramps for my sports cars.
 

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Havent done the first oil change yet, does anyone have trouble using the style ramps where there is an incline, then a level space to park? because the current ramps i have are too steep for my saturn ion to drive up on without hitting the bumper on the ramp (need to put 2x4's infront of ramp to drive up on), and presuming that the mustang is lower than my ion.
ramp.JPG
 

Dr. Norts

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Havent done the first oil change yet, does anyone have trouble using the style ramps where there is an incline, then a level space to park? because the current ramps i have are too steep for my saturn ion to drive up on without hitting the bumper on the ramp (need to put 2x4's infront of ramp to drive up on), and presuming that the mustang is lower than my ion.
ramp.JPG
Those are too steep of an incline. You'll hit the lower lip on them. Just spend the 60$ on a set of rhino ramps. They're even cheaper on sale
 

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WildHorse

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Built my own wooden ramp w/ tire stops. And as above poke a hole in the oil filter to let it drain, then drain the oil in the pan.
I usually spend an hour, I just let it drip till nothing come out anymore.
 
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dn1984

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Lowered about 1.5", no jacking rails, my floor jack fits under it just fine. Has a little more clearance than my old 2012 that was on H&R Supersports
 

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Most definitely regarding it being unsafe when running the pinch welds parallel to the grain. My blocks are a 7" long 2x4 on the bottom with two 3-1/2 inch blocks screwed sideways on top of the 7" long 2x4, so the pinch weld is perpendicular to the grain. It does indent about 1/8 of an inch, but it's far less than even some of the jack pads I've seen. That being said, next time I replace my tires, I'm going to keep one and cut the treads and screw it on top.

No matter what though, the good thing about this thread is that everyone appears to be very aware of the dangers of improper lifting techniques. If you can't have a buddy out there with you, make sure you have a cell phone just in case the car falls (And you are able to use your hand).
No to be too morbid but as crazy as it sounds I literally just had a family friend die under a car that fell off the jack. Needless to say I’ve been extra extra careful these past few months...
 

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Man, I'm so sorry to hear about it. Whenever I need to jack up a car and remove a tire, the tire automatically goes under the vehicle. It tends to get in the way anyway (Sitting outside on the garage floor, etc.), and who knows, if the other safety measures fail, it's a nice last ditch effort.
 

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Don't use 2x4 wood on pinch welds. Or jacks in general. Speaking from personal experience here. They looked safe and all when I was using them on the 2014 Fusion, then all the sudden it split (was only indented about 1/8th inch at the time). Good thing I wasn't under the car and had a jackstand under another pinch weld, or the car would be on the floor.
 

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MaskedRacerX

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I need an oil change, like __now__, and I have DIY'ed one in like 25 years ... :crazy:

But given the situation, seems like a good time to go back to it. Just need some supplies, I've got Rino Ramps, good jack, stands, jacking pucks.

I need to source:

Oil, 10 quarts 5W20 full synth, not sure on the current "go to" brand
Filter, looks like an FL500S, probably a Motorcraft?

Considering adding Cera Tec at this change

Plus, some general "shop supplies", hell, I don't even have a drain tub ... :crackup:
 
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dn1984

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I need an oil change, like __now__, and I have DIY'ed one in like 25 years ... :crazy:

But given the situation, seems like a good time to go back to it. Just need some supplies, I've got Rino Ramps, good jack, stands, jacking pucks.

I need to source:

Oil, 8 quarts 5W20 full synth, not sure on the current "go to" brand
Filter, looks like an FL500S, probably a Motorcraft?

Considering adding Cera Tec at this change

Plus, some general "shop supplies", hell, I don't even have a drain tub ... :crackup:
My local Autozone carries Motorcraft filters, or you can head to the dealer. I have also used Mobil 1 filters in the past and those are fine too. Anything except Fram really. Wal Mart will be your best bet for oil, or Amazon if you can find a deal. I was able to buy my Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w-30 on Amazon for cheaper than anywhere else because they had a subscribe and save deal. A lot of guys here use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but I did some research on the Castrol and found it to be as good or better for much less money than pretty much any good oil out there.

And it takes 10 quarts, by the way

I would also buy a new drain plug while you're at it (plastic one that fits the F-150 too) in case you break the factory one.
 

MaskedRacerX

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Cool, thanks yeah that was a Gen 2 (15-17) capacity, not a Gen 3 (MY18-20) like mine, 10 quarts, I see it now, thanks for the correction (I literally just read the wrong line in a table ...)

I'll definitely just go Amazon/online, filter is $6-10 Motorcraft, 10-20 for like a Fram or Mobile one with lots of marketing speak (2x the price, it MUST be better).

Gotcha on the plug, good backup plan.
 

ihasnostang

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Cool, thanks yeah that was a Gen 2 (15-17) capacity, not a Gen 3 (MY18-20) like mine, 10 quarts, I see it now, thanks for the correction (I literally just read the wrong line in a table ...)

I'll definitely just go Amazon/online, filter is $6-10 Motorcraft, 10-20 for like a Fram or Mobile one with lots of marketing speak (2x the price, it MUST be better).

Gotcha on the plug, good backup plan.
support local dont buy from billionaire globalist amazon
 

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Did the first oil change about a month ago.
No issues and no mess.

I'm using Mobil 1 and Bosch Filter.

Installed the Ronin which was very easy.
Attaching some images.

1 - Up on the Race Ramps.
I have the 2 Piece 72" ramps - long length provides a good angle and the height is 8 or 10 inches (can't remember).
Helps with all the sports cars in the family.

2 & 3 - Used the detached ramps to build a platform for the drain pan to get it higher and closer to the oil drain.

4 - Pulled the drain plug out very slowly.
Pulled it out maybe a little less than an inch - see the blue circle.
Allowed me to control the flow and let the oil out into the drain pan at a reasonable rate.

5 & 6 - Installed the Ronin.
Just line up the reference notch at 7-8 o'clock position - see red circle - and push / twist into place.
The Ronin Factory white lettering will be facing down at the 6 o'clock position.
It will have a little wiggle play, but directions say that is okay - and it does not leak.

7 - Oil filter is above the flap on the drivers side.
Just one 7mm bolt to remove - some youtube videos show removing all 4 bolts and the entire skid plate, but you only need to take out the one bolt and open the flap.
Filter was tight, but I got it off by hand with some elbow grease.

Hope this helps.
Good Luck Brothers.
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