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Rear Deck Speaker Upgrade by Dealer

goldenpants

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Hey everyone,

I noticed a ripping sound coming from my rear deck speakers in my 9 speaker premium audio setup in my '18 Ecoboost fastback when playing bass heavy stuff especially, so I took it to the dealer and showed them and they gave me an option of putting whatever speakers I want in there if I do not want stock ones put in. I am leaning towards putting in Kicker CSC since they gave me really good bass when I put them in other cars in the past.
Do you guys have any reccomendations for speakers to put in the rear deck? I do not have any plans to change any other speakers as of now.

I also noticed theres no speaker cutouts for the stock speakers, is there a work around for this that does not require too much custom work?

Thank you!!
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goldenpants

goldenpants

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clarifiction: by speaker cutouts I mean theres no speaker grill or hole on the rear deck to allow the speaker audio to come through
 

ktp1598

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There isn't a hole in the package tray for speaker grills, etc.. You could probably cut your own and use the aftermarket grills but I personally wouldn't. Whatever speaker you go with, make sure they match the ohms or the volume will be off. Higher ohms (quieter), lower ohms(louder) but a lower ohm speaker places more load on the amplifier driving them. Someone here may know how low you can go and still be stable. As far as speakers.. The more you spend, the better. I have Pioneer 3-ways in the back but there are much better out there. Lots use Focal.
***No one reports being able to get any bass from the rear deck speakers. In your system, it's all in the doors. If you have the blue plug in the trunk you may be able to install a factory Sub. There's a large thread on it.
 
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goldenpants

goldenpants

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which pioneer 3 ways are you using? I was interested in putting Pioneer TS-A652F speakers since they have some pretty wide range of freq response and are the correct ohm (4).
 

ktp1598

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I used TS-A1670F. They sounded great with my 9-speaker premium system, what you could hear of them. Thing is, I upgraded my door speakers, amplifier and installed the factory sub to effectively have the stock Shaker set up. The stock Shaker speakers are 2 ohms in the back so that reduced the volume even more. At this point only a cat laying on the rear shelf could hear those speakers. Still sounds better than the originals though not as loud.
 

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goldenpants

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Did you find a plug n play amplifier to replace the stock one with? I am leaning towards putting some Kicker CSC 6 3/4 back there since apparently the tweeter on the Pioneers may stick up too high. I am also going to replace the door speakers with some pretty high quality stuff since that where the majority of the audio will be coming from. Also considering putting a kicker hideaway sub somewhere in the car since I already have it and the shaker one seems expensive.
 

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I put all Shaker stuff in my car (except the rear speakers). The stock front amplifier ended in -AB (never seen one of those and still haven't) I put a - CP in and pinned the plug for the signal and turn on wire. Ran those to the trunk and pulled power from the blue plug that was already back there. Unfortunately, being a 2019 it wasn't a simple plug and play with the blue plug in the trunk. That's why I had to run the extra wires for the signal and amp turn on to the trunk. Bought the small harness for the factory sub and connected everything to that. No issues so far and sounds really well, for me anyway.
 

rdisatell75

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I haven't seen any posts about ohms on the factory amplifier about what it can and cannot handle. I know many guys who replaced their tweeters and 3.5" speakers in the doors with aftermarket speakers which are usually rated at 4 ohms. The factory speakers are both 8 ohms (4 ohm load) and on the same channel on the factory amplifier. This would mean a 2 ohm load on the factory amplifier with 4 ohm aftermarket speakers. I haven't heard of any issues with that. The 6.5's in the doors and the rear deck are both 4 ohms. Now, if I had to guess the amplifier should be "good" on a 2 ohm load (as most stereo amplfiiers are), but "good" is a relative term when dealing with OEM equipment. Mainly it is designed to handle the ohms and power requirements of the factory speakers and changing that may create a lifespan issue. Also more resistance usually mean more power output, and more heat. So overheating may become an issue as well.
 

rdisatell75

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Did you find a plug n play amplifier to replace the stock one with? I am leaning towards putting some Kicker CSC 6 3/4 back there since apparently the tweeter on the Pioneers may stick up too high. I am also going to replace the door speakers with some pretty high quality stuff since that where the majority of the audio will be coming from. Also considering putting a kicker hideaway sub somewhere in the car since I already have it and the shaker one seems expensive.
There is no plug and play option from my research. The closest you will get to plug and play is the following.

Maestro HRN-AR-F03 Harness to plug into the plugs for the amplifier.

Maestro AR Amp replacement module.

Kenwood XR600-DSP 6 Channel amp with Built in DSP

Total on all this will come out to around $710-$750 depending on where you get it from. I was considering this since it all interfaces together and is mostly plug and play. The problem is the Maestro AR only works with the Kenwood amp and Audison Amps at the moment. There was talk about AudioControl making an amp that works with it as well but I haven't heard that its ready yet.

After all my research I settled on going with the Maestro harness to plug into the factory amplfier plugs, and wire in some RCA plugs to the line level wires and send that into an AudioControl DM-608. The DM-608 is a DSP and will give me 8 outputs. I already have the amplifiers and selling those won't make much sense or money. I also like and trust the AudioControl units and tuning software much better. Most expert installers use and rely on AudioControl. The cost on the DM-608 is about $480 but worth every penny based on my research. If you need more outputs they also make a DM-810 which has 10 outputs. My plan is to mount the DM-608 on the same plate as the factory amplifier and have it sit under the kick panel if it will fit. Then run all the wires to the trunk and mount the amplifiers there. The speaker wires will run back to the front and tie into the HRN-AR-F03 harness to feed all the speakers. Long reply but I hope this helps.
 

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Also more resistance usually mean more power output, and more heat. So overheating may become an issue as well.
The inverse is true. Less resistance (lower impedance) means higher power assuming the voltage of the amplifier is able to remain constant. I wouldn't hesitate using 4 ohm speakers throughout the car as each speaker has it's own amplifier channel with the exception of the tweeter which is in parallel with the 6.5 door woofer. Since the tweeter and woofer operate in different frequency bands, the effective nominal impedance will still be around 4 ohms.
 

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rdisatell75

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The inverse is true. Less resistance (lower impedance) means higher power assuming the voltage of the amplifier is able to remain constant. I wouldn't hesitate using 4 ohm speakers throughout the car as each speaker has it's own amplifier channel with the exception of the tweeter which is in parallel with the 6.5 door woofer. Since the tweeter and woofer operate in different frequency bands, the effective nominal impedance will still be around 4 ohms.
Actually per the wiring diagram in the sticky the tweeters are paired up with the 3.5" door speakers. The diagram labels them as "door tweeters". Also the tweeters (A-Pillar) and the 3.5"s are both listed as 8 ohms, which would be a 4 ohm load to the amplifier. I doubt the 6.5's in the door would be called tweeters. Also the 6.5" speakers in the door are only playing low frequency like subwoofers. There are capacitors on the back of the tweeters, and the back of the 3.5" speakers to knock the lower frequencies out. Now, you can reroute the wiring in the doors so that the 6.5's and the tweeters are together if you wish very easily, but it would be easier to discard using the factory wiring for the tweeters being that they are in the A-Pillars and run new wires to each tweeter and mount your passive crossovers where the factory amp is mounted.

For my application what I decided to do is to have a set of 6.5" components (3 ohms JBL) on one pair of the 6 wires. Then a set of Coaxial 3.5" (3 ohm JBL) on the second set of front wires. Those would be powered by a 4 channel amplifier. Then I would power my rear deck speakers, which will be a set of JBL GTO693's 2 ohms with a 2 channel amplifier on channels 5 and 6. Channels 7 and 8 would go to a monoblock 1000 watt amplifier on 1 10" woofer or 2 8" woofer, still undecided on that. I have also been researching finding amplifiers that are as small as possible but can still put out 75 to 100 watts per channel. The Timpano amplifiers seem to be just that. They are very small in size, reviews are pretty good and the pricing is very low. If money were no object the JL XD series amplifiers with all JL C3 series speakers would be my choice but I have to keep within budget on the audio stuff so I can have some money left over for performance mods. I just got the car in December.
 

StangTime

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Actually per the wiring diagram in the sticky the tweeters are paired up with the 3.5" door speakers. The diagram labels them as "door tweeters". Also the tweeters (A-Pillar) and the 3.5"s are both listed as 8 ohms, which would be a 4 ohm load to the amplifier.
Right. I see that the tweeters are paired with the midrange not the woofer.
But you can't assume that an 8 ohm tweeter and an 8 ohm mid-range in parallel will equal a 4 ohm load to the amp. If we are talking about a purely direct current application, then yes. But the load on the amp varies with frequency. Due to the complex nature of the true AC impedance of a loudspeaker and a simple crossover network (inline capacitor with the tweeter) the effective impedance will vary and will never be 4 ohms.
Now if we are talking about two identical 8ohm drivers such as a pair of subwoofers or pair of midranges, then we have two identical impedance curves in parallel and the effective impedance can be considered to be 4ohms.
 

rdisatell75

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Right. I see that the tweeters are paired with the midrange not the woofer.
But you can't assume that an 8 ohm tweeter and an 8 ohm mid-range in parallel will equal a 4 ohm load to the amp. If we are talking about a purely direct current application, then yes. But the load on the amp varies with frequency. Due to the complex nature of the true AC impedance of a loudspeaker and a simple crossover network (inline capacitor with the tweeter) the effective impedance will vary and will never be 4 ohms.
Now if we are talking about two identical 8ohm drivers such as a pair of subwoofers or pair of midranges, then we have two identical impedance curves in parallel and the effective impedance can be considered to be 4ohms.
I see. But still you should be able to estimate that two 4 ohm speakers where there were two 8 ohm speakers will create more resistance and pull more power from the amp. And although its common that aftermarket amps are capable and stable with that load. The factory amp is likely built as cheap as possible and may not be stable with that resistance. I was really just trying to point out that even though you may be able to just change the speakers the amp may not last long. That's one of the reasons I am looking for the best way to just remove the factory amp from the equation altogether. Go with a more capable, powerful amp that can give the aftermarket speakers the power they need.
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