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Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

biminiLX

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So I have a very nice low mile stock TR6060 from my ‘14 GT500.
I was saving it for my ‘93 Cobra Coyote swap, but I’ve been told it’d be cheaper to sell and buy a Fox Magnum.
The shop thought it might fit an S550 to make it available for a ‘05-up, not just ‘05-14.
Does anyone know?
After driving my dad’s ‘13 Boss LS, I can definitely see why you MT82 guys upgrade.
-J
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db252

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@db252 what shifter boot seal are you using? As far as I can tell, S550's didn't come with that one and I need something to seal the opening.
I’m using the one that came with my original MGW from my mt82. It works and seals perfectly. You can get one from them but it doesn’t seem to come with one when they sell the T56 MGW shifter which I also have.
 

ponie1992

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I’m using the one that came with my original MGW from my mt82. It works and seals perfectly. You can get one from them but it doesn’t seem to come with one when they sell the T56 MGW shifter which I also have.
The pic I posted is an 11-14 stock shifter. Can only get the boot with the shifter is what I've been told. I may have a lead on one. Also may contact MGW just in case. Thanks man!
 

Wolverine

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Great update, good to know it's worthwhile to index the bellhousing, otherwise I'd feel really dumb spending on the Bowler plate without needing it. And also a new Noga indicator stand...

Did you use the RM-140 (Quicktime) dowel pins? From what I see the Mod motor pins are only available in 7, 14, and 21 thou offsets.

What clutch MC are you using? Based on talking with Tilton, the OE mustang MC shouldn't overtravel the Tilton HRB so a pedal stop isn't necessary, but since you're building an FFR you may be using a different MC or maybe a whole Tilton pedal setup.

What FF car are you building BTW, and do you have a build thread on the FF forum?
The Bowler dial-indicator plate is around $70, which is annoying but I’m telling you it’s worth it. Not having to rip the front cover off a brand new sealed T56 and mess with the bearing races is nice. Plus the plate actually does more things (and better) when compared to the trans front cover method.

Firstly it has a large ~6” circle to indicate to. This means higher resolution and more accuracy, compared to a ~2” circle. Plus your indicator can fit completely inside, and be perpendicular to the measuring plane. Secondly, it is perfect for measuring parallelism too.

And for those of you wondering...YES you do need to indicate your bellhousing, even if it is a factory fresh 2019 Mustang engine. This is a fabricated steel bellhousing, which has been welded, powdercoated, and machined but not necessarily in that order unfortunately. Do yourself a favor and make sure the input shaft of the T56 is smack-dab in the center of your crankshaft. This goes a long way towards perfect shift quality especially at high RPM (they say 7,000+ is high... I’m revving mine to 8,000+).

Offset dowels for the Coyote and all other Modular Fords are made by QuickTime/LakeWood (same company). I used the RM-140 which is 0.007” offset. They also have 0.014” and 0.021” offset pins, if you need them. $40/pair. Depending on how they’re clocked, they can correct pretty much any amount of error you have. They don’t have to face only the direction of your major offset, they can be angled to correct both X and Y simultaneously. Plenty of documentation and videos to better illustrate this part if you’re still unsure how they work.

I’m using a Wilwood 13/16” master cylinder with my Tilton 6000-Series HRB (hydraulic release bearing). I have a Wilwood pedal assembly and two more Wilwood 3/4” brake master cylinders adjacent to my clutch MC. Pedal ratios are different than the Mustang, I’m sure, but I’ll likely be fabricating my own pedal stop just because. You do NOT want to over travel the HRB....bad things happen if you do. Pedal stops are easy. Sometimes you reach the carpet/firewall before running out of HRB stroke anyway though, which would make a pedal stop pretty useless. Just measure the HRB travel through complete pedal travel to see what you have.

I’m building a Factory Five Gen3 Daytona Coupe-R. This is the race-chassis with extra tubes in the frame to meet NASA/SCCA rulebook requirements. I’m very active over at TheFactoryFiveForum.com but I do not yet have a build thread going. Mostly FB right now.
 

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aleccolin

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The Bowler dial-indicator plate is around $70, which is annoying but I’m telling you it’s worth it. Not having to rip the front cover off a brand new sealed T56 and mess with the bearing races is nice. Plus the plate actually does more things (and better) when compared to the trans front cover method.

Firstly it has a large ~6” circle to indicate to. This means higher resolution and more accuracy, compared to a ~2” circle. Plus your indicator can fit completely inside, and be perpendicular to the measuring plane. Secondly, it is perfect for measuring parallelism too.

And for those of you wondering...YES you do need to indicate your bellhousing, even if it is a factory fresh 2019 Mustang engine. This is a fabricated steel bellhousing, which has been welded, powdercoated, and machined but not necessarily in that order unfortunately. Do yourself a favor and make sure the input shaft of the T56 is smack-dab in the center of your crankshaft. This goes a long way towards perfect shift quality especially at high RPM (they say 7,000+ is high... I’m revving mine to 8,000+).

Offset dowels for the Coyote and all other Modular Fords are made by QuickTime/LakeWood (same company). I used the RM-140 which is 0.007” offset. They also have 0.014” and 0.021” offset pins, if you need them. $40/pair. Depending on how they’re clocked, they can correct pretty much any amount of error you have. They don’t have to face only the direction of your major offset, they can be angled to correct both X and Y simultaneously. Plenty of documentation and videos to better illustrate this part if you’re still unsure how they work.
+1 yeah I've had a Bowler index plate sitting in my shop for a couple months, along with everything else for this install, just work too much can't seem to get a couple days off to do the swap.

I’m using a Wilwood 13/16” master cylinder with my Tilton 6000-Series HRB (hydraulic release bearing). I have a Wilwood pedal assembly and two more Wilwood 3/4” brake master cylinders adjacent to my clutch MC. Pedal ratios are different than the Mustang, I’m sure, but I’ll likely be fabricating my own pedal stop just because. You do NOT want to over travel the HRB....bad things happen if you do. Pedal stops are easy. Sometimes you reach the carpet/firewall before running out of HRB stroke anyway though, which would make a pedal stop pretty useless. Just measure the HRB travel through complete pedal travel to see what you have.

I’m building a Factory Five Gen3 Daytona Coupe-R. This is the race-chassis with extra tubes in the frame to meet NASA/SCCA rulebook requirements. I’m very active over at TheFactoryFiveForum.com but I do not yet have a build thread going. Mostly FB right now.
That's AWESOME, I know they made some great improvements with the Gen3 chassis. I'm a couple years out from my '34 Truck build so I haven't been on the FF forum very much, but I need to start.
 

aleccolin

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So I have a very nice low mile stock TR6060 from my ‘14 GT500.
I was saving it for my ‘93 Cobra Coyote swap, but I’ve been told it’d be cheaper to sell and buy a Fox Magnum.
The shop thought it might fit an S550 to make it available for a ‘05-up, not just ‘05-14.
Does anyone know?
After driving my dad’s ‘13 Boss LS, I can definitely see why you MT82 guys upgrade.
-J
You should be able to use the TR6060 in an S550, just need all the requisite GT500 parts (clutch/flywheel/hrb) etc. I believe the reverse and speed sensor hookups are the same, but you may want to check on that. Worst case since the TR6060 is basically a T56 with a body mounted shifter, you can always just use a Bowler harness for the electronic side.

Here's a swap guide I just found: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/tr6060-swap-guide.64210/
 

Wolverine

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+1 yeah I've had a Bowler index plate sitting in my shop for a couple months, along with everything else for this install, just work too much can't seem to get a couple days off to do the swap.

That's AWESOME, I know they made some great improvements with the Gen3 chassis. I'm a couple years out from my '34 Truck build so I haven't been on the FF forum very much, but I need to start.
Well come on, get this trans swap done!! Just get started and make it happen, it’ll be done before you know it. I want to hear the report after you’ve completed it.

Improvements almost isn’t the right word...the Gen 3 Coupe chassis was a clean sheet design. It blows the old one out of the water in literally every measurable metric. Gen 3 Street chassis is 7.5x stiffer than the Gen 2, and the Gen 3 Race chassis is 14x stiffer. And the old one was already a fairly strong tube chassis! Deflection was measured at 0.3-0.4 degrees for the Gen 3 S, and 0.15 degrees for the Gen 3 R.

The hot rod truck is awesome too, I want to build a truck next. Bonus points if it’s capable of towing my Daytona to the track lol
 

ponie1992

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One thing I didn't think about too much before my swap was a driveshaft safety loop. Are any of you guys running one? I'm assuming I'll have to come up with something custom.
 

Wolverine

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The S550 has several bolt-on driveshaft safety loops available. Blowfish, BMR, etc. I’m not sure where they mount, and the T56XL changes the length of the trans obviously... so a little research will be necessary.

For my Factory Five Daytona, I ordered an Allstar Performance kit from summit to build my own loop. Since the IRS differential is fixed into position, I cut the loop down so instead of a long oval shape it’ll be a circle about 1.5” larger diameter and mounted in the dead center of the ~6” driveshaft. That way if either U-joint fails, the flailing end is closely contained in a tight circle instead of allowing a bunch of vertical motion inside the oval shaped loops you commonly see which are for solid axles that need to move up and down.
 

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ponie1992

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The S550 has several bolt-on driveshaft safety loops available. Blowfish, BMR, etc. I’m not sure where they mount, and the T56XL changes the length of the trans obviously... so a little research will be necessary.

For my Factory Five Daytona, I ordered an Allstar Performance kit from summit to build my own loop. Since the IRS differential is fixed into position, I cut the loop down so instead of a long oval shape it’ll be a circle about 1.5” larger diameter and mounted in the dead center of the ~6” driveshaft. That way if either U-joint fails, the flailing end is closely contained in a tight circle instead of allowing a bunch of vertical motion inside the oval shaped loops you commonly see which are for solid axles that need to move up and down.
NHRA rules require the loop to be a certain distance from the u joint at the trans. None of the off the shelf loops will work, that I'm aware of. I have a BMR loop. The length of the trans puts that u joint way back. Guess I'll have to come up with something. Definitely don't wanna drill holes in the floor though.
 

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ponie1992

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So, I'm trying to set up the all in one harness and I can't get it to show up in the app, even though it is paired with my phone. The chip doesn't show up at all when I open the app. Any suggestions? This has aggravated the crap out of me cause it took me forever just to find the app, now it won't connect.
 

ckendri

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How
So, I'm trying to set up the all in one harness and I can't get it to show up in the app, even though it is paired with my phone. The chip doesn't show up at all when I open the app. Any suggestions? This has aggravated the crap out of me cause it took me forever just to find the app, now it won't connect.
How did you pair it if it didn’t show up? I thought the pairing took place in the app by selecting the device. Was your VSS unplugged? Have you tried unpairing and starting over? I don’t have my car any more, or I would take a look at my app. That’s all I could think of off the top of my head.
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