Active Exhaust Failure

[Ayee__Jay]

So last night I was driving and I always leave my exhaust in Track Mode, and it sent my exhaust back to Normal Mode telling me the option wasn’t available. I can put it in Quiet, Normal, or Sport totally fine, but if I put it in Track it goes back to Normal a few seconds later. Anyone have any suggestions on what it may be? I’ve heard about checking fuses (which I will in a bit) but if thats the case wouldn’t Sports and Quiet mode
fail aswell? Also did a quick look under didnt see any burned/failed wires.

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[Cobra Jet]

So last night I was driving and I always leave my exhaust in Track Mode, and it sent my exhaust back to Normal Mode telling me the option wasn’t available. I can put it in Quiet, Normal, or Sport totally fine, but if I put it in Track it goes back to Normal a few seconds later. Anyone have any suggestions on what it may be? I’ve heard about checking fuses (which I will in a bit) but if thats the case wouldn’t Sports and Quiet mode
fail aswell? Also did a quick look under didnt see any burned/failed wires.

Here ya go - check this thread out, it’s most likely the issue IF it’s not a module software glitch:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-changing-by-itself.128882/#post-2664956

Quite a few members have found that the harness, connector OR both have melted or been burned through at the end near the muffler tips/hanger. Take a good look under the rear of the car in that vicinity - if you don’t see anything obvious, next step would be to try and unplug the connectors and look for burns or melt areas. If nothing, then check the harness that goes into that connector - you may have to peel back or cut the outer sheathing to really see any damages (if they exist).

It’s just a common issue on all AE S550’s, even the Shelby’s. Not sure if it’s due to the length of the harness, wire sheathing integrity or how close/far some are mounted near the mufflers or muffler tips.

Good luck!

 

[sabtaj1]

Passenger side harness will rub through a few wires and then blow the fuse under the hood... I learned this after installing my res delete. I just disconnected the plug, re sealed the wires, replaced the fuse and was back in business... I then had to re position exhaust and try and pull it inward as the mufflers were back a lil too far.

 

[Ayee__Jay]

Passenger side harness will rub through a few wires and then blow the fuse under the hood... I learned this after installing my res delete. I just disconnected the plug, re sealed the wires, replaced the fuse and was back in business... I then had to re position exhaust and try and pull it inward as the mufflers were back a lil too far.

NewSo one thing I’ve noticed is if i crank it up it will switch by its self back and forth. Do you know which fuse goes to the active exhaust?

 

[DjMig]

NewSo one thing I’ve noticed is if i crank it up it will switch by its self back and forth. Do you know which fuse goes to the active exhaust?

Hey! Did you find a solution to the problem? I’m having the same exact issue with my active exhaust

 

[Ayee__Jay]

Hey! Did you find a solution to the problem? I’m having the same exact issue with my active exhaust

Sorry for the late reply, but tbh bro, I’ve always rode with it in Track mode, so i opened them up in track mode, killed the car and went and pulled the fuse so now they just stay open. My active exhaust system definitely wasn’t the best option for Flowmasters as it rattles a LOT so i will probably end up cutting the valves out and tuck the plug ins for the active exhaust away somewhere till i get different AB’s in the future

 

[Elp_jc]

Does that happen when in sport and track modes? At least on my Bullitt, when I select track exhaust in normal mode, it puts the MR suspension in 'hard'. Doesn't seem to change the driving mode to track (need to re-check that), but it does change MR, which is annoying. I like sport better, so thankfully it's not an issue for me, since the only time I like to use track exhaust is in mountain runs, where I have MR in 'hard' anyway. If your fuse wasn't blown, and your valve connectors/wires look good, it's going to be something else.

 

[Ayee__Jay]

Does that happen when in sport and track modes? At least on my Bullitt, when I select track exhaust in normal mode, it puts the MR suspension in 'hard'. Doesn't seem to change the driving mode to track (need to re-check that), but it does change MR, which is annoying. I like sport better, so thankfully it's not an issue for me, since the only time I like to use track exhaust is in mountain runs, where I have MR in 'hard' anyway. If your fuse wasn't blown, and your valve connectors/wires look good, it's going to be something else.

Oh I definitely know for a fact its a bad valve/motor. But the valves rattle regardless on cold starts and low rpms. So the least rattle i get is when they are both wide open although my passenger valve doesn’t open 100%. I dont know the solution to it and I haven’t seen anyone mustang wise with a solution, so until then I’m not too worried about it

 

[NGOT8R]

I realize that this is an old thread, but I believe the problem is still very prevalent on cars that have factory “Active Exhaust” systems. I‘ve personally experienced this issue on my 2019 Bullitt. After growing tired of seeing the Exhaust Mode Malfunction light on the dash, I decided to address it.

First, I attempted to order a right side replacement harness online, only to have the company that I had placed the order with, cancel the order due to unknown availability. It was at this point that I decided to see if I could repair mine. Here’s how I went about it:

1. Cut back 2 1/2” of the aluminum heat shield insulation, as well as the split wire loom that was underneath.

2. De-pinned the connector, cut the four wires, stripped, soldered and applied heat shrink to each wire. Note: In order to de-pin the connector, you must remove the white male portion of the connector by prying up on it with a small screwdriver, followed by gently prying up the locking tongues that hold each pinned wire in place, while pulling the wire out the back of the connector.

3. Wrapped a portion of the harness with Tesa Tape to give a super clean look. Note: I also wrapped the left harness with Tessa Tape, so that it would closely match the right side harness.

The photos depict the damage caused to the right AE wiring harness, as a result of chafing on the frame of the car. I don’t think I’ll ever have this problem again moving forward, because I am relocating the AE actuators to an AWE bracket. I will still connect the actuators to their respective harnesses to avoid the Exhaust Mode Malfunction light on the dash. Hopefully this repair method will be an option to others, who are dealing with this issue

 

[andrewtac]

just to add, I recently added this to my 2020. It was obvious where the potential interference between the harness and wires. I took a hammer and bent the pinch weld out of the way to ensure I don't have an issue. If you remove your exhaust to fix the problem, look at this and you might be able to prevent it from occurring again.

 

[TonyNJ]

I realize that this is an old thread, but I believe the problem is still very prevalent on cars that have factory “Active Exhaust” systems. I‘ve personally experienced this issue on my 2019 Bullitt. After growing tired of seeing the Exhaust Mode Malfunction light on the dash, I decided to address it.

First, I attempted to order a right side replacement harness online, only to have the company that I had placed the order with, cancel the order due to unknown availability. It was at this point that I decided to see if I could repair mine. Here’s how I went about it:

1. Cut back 2 1/2” of the aluminum heat shield insulation, as well as the split wire loom that was underneath.

2. De-pinned the connector, cut the four wires, stripped, soldered and applied heat shrink to each wire. Note: In order to de-pin the connector, you must remove the white male portion of the connector by prying up on it with a small screwdriver, followed by gently prying up the locking tongues that hold each pinned wire in place, while pulling the wire out the back of the connector.

3. Wrapped a portion of the harness with Tesa Tape to give a super clean look. Note: I also wrapped the left harness with Tessa Tape, so that it would closely match the right side harness.

The photos depict the damage caused to the right AE wiring harness, as a result of chaffing on the frame of the car. I don’t think I’ll ever have this problem again moving forward, because I am relocating the AE actuators to an AWE bracket. I will still connect the actuators to their respective harnesses to avoid the Exhaust Mode Malfunction light on the dash. Hopefully this repair method will be an option to others, who are dealing with this issue

Nice breakdown and photos. Question, are those the factory AW actuators on an aftermarket bracket? Did you happen to photograph the final install? This looks like a nice preventative maintenance mod.

 

[NGOT8R]

Nice breakdown and photos. Question, are those the factory AW actuators on an aftermarket bracket? Did you happen to photograph the final install? This looks like a nice preventative maintenance mod.

Thank you. Yes, those are the factory actuators on the aftermarket bracket. I haven’t installed it yet, but I will do so tomorrow and post pics back here.

 

[sabtaj1]

So I am assuming that eliminates the use of the active exhaust? Mine did the same after my x pipe install. I repaired mine then adjusted the mufflers farther forward as I must have pushed em back when I did the x pipe causing the damage.

 

[mangosmoothie]

I had a similar failure on my bullitt, passenger side harness chafed the frame. I think it's because the X pipe moved a little bit off the headers, it grew with a few heat cycles, or both. The warning would constantly pop up on the dash until I unplugged the harness....

I ended up just ditching the X pipe and factory mufflers for the FRPP touring catback. Sounds great with headers - enough to know it's there, not enough to anger neighbors. Sounds better at WOT than my X pipe thorough stock mufflers. Now I saved a few pounds and don't have to worry about it failing open and getting me pulled over. I thought I'd miss it, but I really don't.

I do get the exhaust mode not available when I start the car, then it stays off the whole time. When I'm not lazy I'll disable it in forescan.

 

[NGOT8R]

So I am assuming that eliminates the use of the active exhaust?

Yes.

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