Sticking active exhaust valve

[Rash]

My passenger side active exhaust valve doesn’t open or close all the way most of the time. I’ve had the TSB done but it still does it, so it’s mechanical. I’m scheduled to take it into the dealer, but I was considering maybe shooting some WD-40 or something else in there and see if it freezes up. Anybody else have this issue and find a way to solve it without going to the dealer?

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[Cobra Jet]

Does the TSB tell the Service Center to check for melted or burned through AE harness at the end where it’s closet to the muffler?

That’s been the most common issue to AE malfunctions - burnt through wires and melted connectors. You have to get under the car to see and check the harnesses for damage. There’s actually quite a few threads in the 5.0 section about the burn through and the same has been found on the Shelby’s also.

 

[Rash]

Does the TSB tell the Service Center to check for melted or burned through AE harness at the end where it’s closet to the muffler?

That’s been the most common issue to AE malfunctions - burnt through wires and melted connectors. You have to get under the car to see and check the harnesses for damage. There’s actually quite a few threads in the 5.0 section about the burn through and the same has been found on the Shelby’s also.

yeah I checked for that I couldn’t find anything. I also assume that if it was that then it would malfunction most if not all the time. It seems like a sticking valve because it does move, it just doesn’t close all the way. If I use quiet start, the car will actually try to close the valve several times before it gives up and sends an exhaust mode not available message. Before the TSB that error message would stop active exhaust from working at all until the next restart of the car. Now, it allows you to keep trying, and there are times where if I keep trying it will start working again.

The good thing about the TSB (which updates the PCM) - it actually seems to have solved my transmission issues. No more jerking into gear from park to drive, no more lugging at low rpms, no more reluctance to downshift. Fingers crossed it’s permanent.

 

[Johnnybee]

In the old days (like the early 70s) we used heat riser valve lube to keep those working because they would crud up. I don't know what the exhaust valve looks like or what the access is like to the pivot, but if you could put some of that on it, it might free it up. I'm pretty sure you can still buy it.

 

[TheSnowmanMafia]

Just FYI WD-40 isn't lubricant. You want something like white lithium spray or something that will actually lube it up.

 

[Vstang2]

Just FYI WD-40 isn't lubricant. You want something like white lithium spray or something that will actually lube it up.

^^This

 

[DILLIGAFTXVET]

Make sure you look into what you spray or apply to it if you do anything. Last thing you want is a fire.

 

[Johnnybee]

I did a bit of googling today and apparently nickel or copper based anti-seize works well (for vintage heat riser valves), so presumably would work for this as well. Just not sure how you get in where you want it.

 

[ssac]

I have the same problem with my 2019, after a random amount of time my driver side valve stops working. Dealer has replaced the harness but that did not do the trick and I've lubed up the valve with some white lithium grease which also didn't seem to help. My dealer didn't seem to know anything about a TSB for the issue, did they tell you what the TSB number is?

 

[thasuperdude]

Had mine fixed and it's back. The valve will flap around loose, I can hear it in my parking garage. Or at cold start, it seems to try all three settings and settling on Normal. But it is intermittent.

I'm about to bring it back in for my 10k.

 

[shadowx]

I have the same problem with my 2019, after a random amount of time my driver side valve stops working. Dealer has replaced the harness but that did not do the trick and I've lubed up the valve with some white lithium grease which also didn't seem to help. My dealer didn't seem to know anything about a TSB for the issue, did they tell you what the TSB number is?

maybe the problem from the spring inside the actuator? I mean if the wiring harness and everything else you checked was fine maybe the spring fail somehow?

 

[Rash]

I think it’s completely failed now because passenger side is stuck in track mode position - wide open. Actually a good thing - they can’t say they couldn’t replicate the problem now. Will be taking it in soon - will post when finally resolved.

 

[shadowx]

I think it’s completely failed now because passenger side is stuck in track mode position - wide open. Actually a good thing - they can’t say they couldn’t replicate the problem now. Will be taking it in soon - will post when finally resolved.

mention to them that spring or maybe reset computer?

 

[Rash]

mention to them that spring or maybe reset computer?

Already had PCM reset. It’s only one side so has to be mechanical. Could be spring, but it’s their job to figure that out, not mine.

 

[Rooz]

Already had PCM reset. It’s only one side so has to be mechanical. Could be spring, but it’s their job to figure that out, not mine.

Hey, sorry to revive an old thread, got any fix for this? I have the same issue.

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