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Fore return fuel system install

rts9364

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Two more relevant questions for you guys -

(1) what different things have you guys done to get the pump leads through the factory seal? I see the OP here chose to leave the big main connector outside of the seal and trim a spot on the edge for the wiring. It seems like leaving the connector inside and running the wiring through closer to the center of the seal might also be an option...?

(2) Where are you grounding the fuel system? Again, the OP shows one option here. I've also heard about the right side of the factory fuel system connector (right next to the pump in the seat area), but mine does not look as stout as I would like for a ground of this size/importance. Just looking for different options/opinions.
Just to close the loop here, I will answer my own questions based on what I ended up doing (fuel system is done now and running).

(1) I left the big connector under the seal and I ran the (4) leads through the grommet in the center of the large seal.

(2) I grounded just like the OP showed in this thread (drilled a hole in the spare tire well). I was trying to use a factory ground, but it wouldn't work out with how I wanted to run/hide various wiring. Also, most of the factory "chassis ground" points don't appear to be any more robust than what I did.

This is a great thread - helped me a lot.
 

gqneon

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Great write up - i realize this is old but im curious about your sound levels with ptfe lines. Check out mine - are yours similar?




Is this a hose routing thing you think? Just curious for your input!
 

Jay-rod427

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Great write up - i realize this is old but im curious about your sound levels with ptfe lines. Check out mine - are yours similar?




Is this a hose routing thing you think? Just curious for your input!
Considering the fuel they move some noise is expected. Try to have rubber mounted everywhere and not touching any metal to the outer braid.
 

gqneon

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Definitely louder than my last 267's but honestly the noise is growing on me. It sounds like it means business - and it definitely does.
 

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beefcake

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i really don't notice the pumps at all, can hear the reg sometimes depending on where it's mounted. should try my fox body with the external pump....ugggg
 

gqneon

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Oh, I imagine so. With the rubber seal on top of the pumps snapped back in, the rear seat installed, and the engine on I don't notice it anymore. I definitely hear it when I open the door and it primes but to me that's reassuring now. And now that I'm solidly 800+ rwhp, I'm a fan of reassurances.
 

gstboy69

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Oh, I imagine so. With the rubber seal on top of the pumps snapped back in, the rear seat installed, and the engine on I don't notice it anymore. I definitely hear it when I open the door and it primes but to me that's reassuring now. And now that I'm solidly 800+ rwhp, I'm a fan of reassurances.
Hello you have a Update of the sound with the rubber seal and the rear seat installed???? Thanks.
 

gqneon

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Hello you have a Update of the sound with the rubber seal and the rear seat installed???? Thanks.
No no update. It sounded like it was supposed to it was just louder because it's how those high pressure pumps sounded. It literally made me feel like I was in a fighter jet when it primed it was actually kinda cool.
 

gstboy69

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No no update. It sounded like it was supposed to it was just louder because it's how those high pressure pumps sounded. It literally made me feel like I was in a fighter jet when it primed it was actually kinda cool.
Cool but after prime the noise is less???
And when we are cruising we use only one pump? The sound should be less.
 

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gqneon

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Sorry just got the notification - whether it's one or three pumps running it's going to make some noise and it operates perfectly - I don't think the noise was symptomatic of a problem it was simply operating noise. You could hear it when the car primed because the engine wasn't running but once it's running all you hear is coyote.
 

beefcake

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correct
 

s550cano

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  • First, go ahead and get your car secure on jack stands
39183401241_d41fa07c6d_c.jpg


  • Remove the strut brace if it's a performance pack car
  • Remove engine cover
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  • Remove the battery and put it on a tender if you have one available
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  • Remove the back seat and place it somewhere safe

  • Unplug both the electrical connection and the fuel line from the fuel pump assembly
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  • At this point you will need to remove the fuel pump locking ring by tapping the outside tabs counter clock-wise

  • I was not comfortable using a screwdriver as my tap and a piece of wood did not work for me. I ended up going to the parts store and renting a kit which included a brass tap
    • If you wish to disconnect the OEM fuel line by the engine, this kit includes the tool to do it
38307665705_c5165b39c7_c.jpg


  • Once the locking ring is off, carefully lift up the fuel pump assembly at an angle, as the fuel level sensor is horizontal. Also, disconnect the line which attaches to the bottom left of the assembly
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  • Push down on the tab to disconnect the fuel level sensor, cut both purple wires about 2" above the sensor and remove the sensor
39156328422_92539f4064_c.jpg


  • Slide the fuel level sensor onto the Fore fuel pump assembly and crimp the purple wires onto the included connectors
39156328432_83f49f6395_c.jpg


  • Drop the Fore fuel pump assembly into the tank and re-install the locking ring by tapping it clockwise
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  • Cut the two smaller wires from the OEM connection and splice them into the included connectors from the Fore fuel pump assembly
39183400661_9064446d17_c.jpg
What wires did you tap into for the fuel level sender? Sorry for reviving an ancient thread lol
 
 




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