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10R80 on the curvy (road race) track

zirfj312

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June 30th ..buttonwillow with 100f :)
Intested 300miles on the street. Max temp is 202.
I'm also investigating with a ford mechanic possible options to remove /bypass the thermostat .. I'm sure that if we remove it the average temp will drop 30f at least . the thsrmostat opens too late for track usage.
One thing for sure.
Having now the cooler before the AC condenser is helping forncooling down the temp when i stop the car : if i turn on the AC the fan starts to move air an cool down it.
I keep you posted
20190530_084359_HDR.jpg
Thanks for the great info. I am also tracking my 10R80 (in Florida) and dealing with heat issues. What you describe is exactly my experience for both oil and transmission temps. Could you recommend the specific tranny cooler you are using? And have you made any changes to your rear end gears? I've been following on instagram keep up the great content!
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Flyhalf

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Hey take a quick look here.
Some details on description
Feel free to PM in instagram. We can go deeper on all the mods :)
 

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I am having the same issues with my 10R80, On short 15 minute track times I was fine with the stock setup, but at 20+ minute track events it would go 225+. I installed a 25 stack plate Derale cooler in-line with the OEM cooler for added cooling, so far no issues but it is also Winter. I will let you know the outcome after testing.
 

EFI

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I am having the same issues with my 10R80, On short 15 minute track times I was fine with the stock setup, but at 20+ minute track events it would go 225+. I installed a 25 stack plate Derale cooler in-line with the OEM cooler for added cooling, so far no issues but it is also Winter. I will let you know the outcome after testing.
What issues were you having with the trans getting to 225*? That is perfectly fine for a quick stint, so it shouldn't cause much issue.
 

SuperDave

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When the trans got above 225 the shifts were slow at high speeds, 120+mph, down shifts were fine, took me a while to figure out what was happening. But after reading some of the threads here and the problems that others were having it seems to be the issue. After talking to a couple of Ford mechanics it seems that the 10R80 temp is controlled by the PCM which monitors the TFT Sensor in the value body, and PCM controls fluid going to the cooler when in Warm-Up Mode. I am hoping that someone figures out how to recalibrate the PCM so it would allow fluid flow at 150 degree instead of 175 or whatever it is set at the factory. I have found that driving the car around the pits for 10 minutes cools the tranny nicely.
 

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EFI

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it seems that the 10R80 temp is controlled by the PCM which monitors the TFT Sensor in the value body, and PCM controls fluid going to the cooler when in Warm-Up Mode. I am hoping that someone figures out how to recalibrate the PCM so it would allow fluid flow at 150 degree instead of 175 or whatever it is set at the factory. I have found that driving the car around the pits for 10 minutes cools the tranny nicely.
I don't think allowing the fluid to enter the cooler earlier will make much difference in max temp, it will just take slightly longer to get there. So instead of hitting it at the end of the first 20 minute session, it might be until the end of the 2nd. It's like the thermostat for the engine, getting a lower numerically thermostat doesn't reduce max engine temp on the track, it just keeps the engine cooler when putting around or doing single pulls.

You might be able to adjust the temperature at which these slower shifts happen in the tune, but then again I don't think you should have this problem anymore with the bigger cooler.
 

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I agree,
Heat soaking is definitely an issue as well. I found that cool down laps, or time, definitely helps.
 

Flyhalf

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So the "open " to the radiator is mechanical, not electronically.
I DID FIND someone bypassing the Body valve that controls the flow to the cooler in a 6r80. he is in Arizona. without going to much in details, it is a plug that bypass the body valve allowing a constant flow to the cooler. I think it could be replicate here in the 10speed

I do believe that for the usage we have ,( 20mins session ) this could be a great solution. The fluid reaches the cooler ONLY after temps were at 190f. Once it reaches the cooler ( especially in after market ones) the cooler does a good job to maintain temps within 30f delta to that.
meaning the cooler does a lot to slow down the heating process. so if the Trans cooler was always connected to a cooler I doubt we will see temp over 190 in 20min sessions.
last consideration.
in a normal transmission the 225f temps are totally fine. But this trans USES A ULTRA LOW VISCOSITY FLUID .so in case of over heating this fluid doesn't work. so In theory, the colder the better.
my ducting and water spray system does a great job on maintaining the temps low. AFTER LOOSING A TRANS I FOUND OUT...I wanna keep it cold :)

I know is another forum..
but this is my PATH with my 18
https://trackmustangsonline.com/thr...-2018-mustang-pp1-10-speed.15486/#post-231860

I hope to replicate it here soon :)
 

EFI

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I do believe that for the usage we have ,( 20mins session ) this could be a great solution. The fluid reaches the cooler ONLY after temps were at 190f. Once it reaches the cooler ( especially in after market ones) the cooler does a good job to maintain temps within 30f delta to that.
meaning the cooler does a lot to slow down the heating process. so if the Trans cooler was always connected to a cooler I doubt we will see temp over 190 in 20min sessions.
I sure hope that's the case, as I'm also looking for a 10 speed as my road course car. However from past experiences with clutch pack/torque converter autos on the racetrack, these buggers run HOT especially at high RPMs. With the 7500 limiter, and the tight spacing between gears keeping the engine at or near redline all the time, I won't be surprised if it continues to run hot even with the open valve you mentioned.

Looking forward to Dave's results with the new cooler, as that would greatly influence my decision to go up to the 10 speed or not.
 

ihasnostang

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So the "open " to the radiator is mechanical, not electronically.
I DID FIND someone bypassing the Body valve that controls the flow to the cooler in a 6r80. he is in Arizona. without going to much in details, it is a plug that bypass the body valve allowing a constant flow to the cooler. I think it could be replicate here in the 10speed

I do believe that for the usage we have ,( 20mins session ) this could be a great solution. The fluid reaches the cooler ONLY after temps were at 190f. Once it reaches the cooler ( especially in after market ones) the cooler does a good job to maintain temps within 30f delta to that.
meaning the cooler does a lot to slow down the heating process. so if the Trans cooler was always connected to a cooler I doubt we will see temp over 190 in 20min sessions.
last consideration.
in a normal transmission the 225f temps are totally fine. But this trans USES A ULTRA LOW VISCOSITY FLUID .so in case of over heating this fluid doesn't work. so In theory, the colder the better.
my ducting and water spray system does a great job on maintaining the temps low. AFTER LOOSING A TRANS I FOUND OUT...I wanna keep it cold :)

I know is another forum..
but this is my PATH with my 18
https://trackmustangsonline.com/thr...-2018-mustang-pp1-10-speed.15486/#post-231860

I hope to replicate it here soon :)
Water sprayers seem like a grey area for track days because of the possibility of excess water being on the track? then again the track only ford gt mk2 has sprayers on the intercoolers in the butresses..
 

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Flyhalf

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I sure hope that's the case, as I'm also looking for a 10 speed as my road course car. However from past experiences with clutch pack/torque converter autos on the racetrack, these buggers run HOT especially at high RPMs. With the 7500 limiter, and the tight spacing between gears keeping the engine at or near redline all the time, I won't be surprised if it continues to run hot even with the open valve you mentioned.

Looking forward to Dave's results with the new cooler, as that would greatly influence my decision to go up to the 10 speed or not.
I HAVE A SETRAB 25 ROW now. max temp was 220f. with ducting and water spray is max 212f with 90f. I ran American muscle cup and ..I won the class :) so the car is fast and worth. However the trans gave me many issues and still does . dealership must be your friend. if you want to take a look on all the job in the car my IG is @italian_stang . the more info we share the more success we have with this 10 speed.
Chevy is using the 10speed in the ZL1 1le to compete with gt500. they do have some different hardware tho. including a metal pan..wich is per se a great way to dissipate heat.

Water sprayers seem like a grey area for track days because of the possibility of excess water being on the track? then again the track only ford gt mk2 has sprayers on the intercoolers in the butresses..
That was my fear too. BUT after initial testing I didn't see any dripping even with coolers low temps . i RAN 4 EVENTS since installation and I have a mix of 70%water and 30%alchool. this mix evaporate even better and exchange even more heat.
I.E. the main issue in our car is the ENGINE OIL. I have a mishi cooler (PUT IT IN THE LOWER GRILLE. OTHERWISE YOU STOP THE FLOW TOP THE OEM TRANS COOLER IN THE UPPER GRILLE!)
i HAVE A TEMP SENSOR ON THE SANDWICH PLATE.
before ducting and water spray temps where around 280-285f
WITH DUCTING IS 260F
WITH DUCTING AND WATER SPRAY 240F


I've been the guinea pig for 10r80 on track and I've tried everything I could to keep this car cool. Next option could be create lateral pockets to the side of the front bumber ( like 350 style) to put the TRAN COOLER THERE. but So far ducting and water spray are doing thier Job. This year I'll do NASA TT.. keep you posted.


 

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https://revmaxconverters.com/product/10r80-transmission-cooler-thermostatic-bypass-upgrade/

I couldn't find much info on this as I haven't seen anyone listing it as a mod before.
That looks promising. Can't wait to hear some in use on road courses. Would much rather do that then all the coolers, ducting, sprayers Alessandro had to do. I wanted to do an auto but was worried about how well it would work. I don't plan to move away from my PP2 unless it's for a GT350 (not likely), PP1 Auto (getting left knee problems so more likely) or GT500 (probably not likely but I could see it being a possibility in like 4 years).
 

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Flyhalf

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Neat product, is there a need or does RevMax make one for the 6R80. I like your thin blue line decals. I want to track my 16 GT when I finish building it. Thank's for these threads, I will follow more now,wow.
I know for sure someone in arizona did the same thing for 6r80.

For me. I wanna give it a try. So i might buy it. The beauty here is this will allow me to reduce the size of the trans cooler in order to put a bigger oil cooler.
Guys car yesterday ran superwell at thunderhill CA. preparing for NASA TT2.
If i could have better cooling then next step could be W2W
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