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Thinking about a built shortblock

Stymee

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I made 850whp for over a year on my stock gen 2 with oil pump gears revving to 8700rpm.

Your one guy Dalton
Gen 2 is better when boosting vs a Gen 3

The point is imo anyone who tells someone boosting a Gen 3 to 800RW and doesn’t explain to them your stock engine is on the edge is not being of help

Lastly as you know Dalton the extras to make the engine survive add up quickly...

EG
Triangle opg/cs
Fore Fuel system

Then you need a trans build or a good clutch

This is not for most, and your still taking a HUGE chance the short block goes buh bye.

Gen 2 is a different story
There pretty strong

I stand by my original opinion 650RW is a realistic number if your racing consistently for longevity, maybe even up to 700RW

800RW, drag racing a stock engine a lot, your asking for trouble unless u go to car shows and just have your dyno sheet on your window
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Dalton@Evolution

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Your one guy Dalton
Gen 2 is better when boosting vs a Gen 3

The point is imo anyone who tells someone boosting a Gen 3 to 800RW and doesn’t explain to them your stock engine is on the edge is not being of help

Lastly as you know Dalton the extras to make the engine survive add up quickly...

EG
Triangle opg/cs
Fore Fuel system

Then you need a trans build or a good clutch

This is not for most, and your still taking a HUGE chance the short block goes buh bye.

Gen 2 is a different story
There pretty strong

I stand by my original opinion 650RW is a realistic number if your racing consistently for longevity, maybe even up to 700RW

800RW, drag racing a stock engine a lot, your asking for trouble unless u go to car shows and just have your dyno sheet on your window
in my opinion, good fuel helps out more then most would know! I was running mostly C-85 and Sunoco E-85R.
 

nobgob

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Reason I asked the question is I was curious about the guy in this post https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tock-motor-coyote-record.134190/#post-2763771 who is running 8.20's on all stock motor. I guess he has $35K in the turbo, fuel system, electronics, trans, etc. but no money spent on the actual motor itself. Don't see too many cars with built motors running that fast. Wondering if that is just an anomaly, or he got the lucky 1-in-1000 engine that someone sprinkled magic pixie dust on at the factory? Regarding the power to run that number, I would guess it's got to be at least 1,300 rwhp, right?
 

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Stymee

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Reason I asked the question is I was curious about the guy in this post https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tock-motor-coyote-record.134190/#post-2763771 who is running 8.20's on all stock motor. I guess he has $35K in the turbo, fuel system, electronics, trans, etc. but no money spent on the actual motor itself. Don't see too many cars with built motors running that fast. Wondering if that is just an anomaly, or he got the lucky 1-in-1000 engine that someone sprinkled magic pixie dust on at the factory? Regarding the power to run that number, I would guess it's got to be at least 1,300 rwhp, right?
Are u doing all that labor yourself to build Van Voris car? With the car price plus 35k in mods your talking 55 or more maybe if dont do the work yourself, it’s far from a street car.

No question his car is very impressive, but when you look at Daltons car running mid 9’s it’s a realistic build and a street car
 

80FoxCoupe

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People do what they do. Some go fast, most don't. Some go as far as justifying why others shouldn't. It is what it is.
 

olaosunt

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Or you could have a short block built using the new 5.2 predator block - $2300 or Gen 3 coyote $900.

Crank - Boss $300 or upgrade to 5.2- $1100.


Pistons/rods/bearing/main studs ~$1500 -$2500 depending on options .
https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-2...tons-manley-h-beam-connecting-rods-combo.html

I scored the Manley Tuff rods / Mahle 2618 pistons(with rings) for a total of about $1500 during recent sales . Minus $100 If you do H rods.
Add $600 for I beams .
$100 for rod bearings . $300 if you add main studs although my engine builder says bolts are fine in most cases .

billet OPG/CS -$400(including pump)

if you pay to have it assembled(includes balancing crank) ~ $700.


if you add it all , less than $4000 will get you a very nice block assembled similar to the Alluminator or better .Most engine builders will charge you $4600-$5500 for the “basic “ “street” build good for 1000whp.
https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-3...-coyote-short-block.html?ref=category:1268152

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/ENGINES-SHORT-LONG-BLOCKS


http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=614


If you have the time you can knock off $1200 by reusing your crank and back if good .


if you want to upgrade to the stronger predator block add $1300 .That would still be at or less than $6K for a predator type block. Add another $1100 for the 5.2 crank but you are getting up there now ... could still be less than $7K buf longer a “budget “ build .

For best combo add the I beams and you are almost “bullet proof” ... we all know there is no such thing .
In my case I was able to have a 5.2 block built for about $4600 because I got a deal on a brand new Voodoo pistons/rings ,Manley H rods and will be reusing the billet OPG/CS on my stock motor .

I don’t even know if the stock motor(Gen 3 wth whipple ) is hurt or not yet .
It’s seem at least 30-40 low 10 sec passes (@137-140) and at least 10 high 9 sec passes (best 9.7)
I think it’s down on mph for the pulley (3.25) so I will do a compression test in spring . It still runs like a champ and I have to daily drive through winter so don’t want to find out till then .

If it’s not hurt I may keep pushing it (might swap tuners ) but will ultimately swap in the 5.2 at one point hopefully with the stock block/crank intact as I already have pistons /rods to rebuild that .

I think it’s a good idea to always have a spare as nothing is guaranteed even with a “built “ motor if you are you going to keep pushing it weekly at a drag strip (especially with my luck ) . Lol

 

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ahl395

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Just a quick comment on that, the pricing of $4750 is with the buyer supplying their own block and crank...so basically you're paying nearly $5000 for rods, pistons and bearings.

With the aluminator, you get an entire new shortblock. You can sell your OEM shortblock (if in good condition) and the end net cost will be alot less than the RGR unit. Plus no downtime, you can order the shortblock and install it the same day you take yours out. Going the RGR route, you have to take the engine out, strip it, ship it and wait for it to come back which could be weeks or months all the while your car just sits.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing RGR in any way, but if you're looking at it from a purely cost and function standpoint, the Aluminator is a better choice than RGR. If you have the time, and have the funds, RGR all the way in that case.
Good catch. I did not notice that. I thought there was an $800 reduction from $4750 for using your block and crank. Yikes!

Since I'm local to JPC and I have the shop doing the labor, they may still be cheaper than paying shipping charges, etc from another place. Going to have to look into that though.
 

aleccesarenriquez

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Reason I asked the question is I was curious about the guy in this post https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tock-motor-coyote-record.134190/#post-2763771 who is running 8.20's on all stock motor. I guess he has $35K in the turbo, fuel system, electronics, trans, etc. but no money spent on the actual motor itself. Don't see too many cars with built motors running that fast. Wondering if that is just an anomaly, or he got the lucky 1-in-1000 engine that someone sprinkled magic pixie dust on at the factory? Regarding the power to run that number, I would guess it's got to be at least 1,300 rwhp, right?
No he's probably making like 1100-1150 (~15-16 psi). It's a pretty light car and has a good trans. 1300 would be more around 21-22 psi, which would be borderline impossible to make the quantity of passes he's made on the stock motor.

When that youtuber Alex popped his motor, it took one accidental hit to 22 psi to do it :crackup:
 

80FoxCoupe

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I do rolls. 40 and 60. 60 for right now until I get a tire. 60-150
I'd look into getting your block sleeved or voodoo/predator block.
No he's probably making like 1100-1150 (~15-16 psi). It's a pretty light car and has a good trans. 1300 would be more around 21-22 psi, which would be borderline impossible to make the quantity of passes he's made on the stock motor.

When that youtuber Alex popped his motor, it took one accidental hit to 22 psi to do it :crackup:
Ur boost numbers are off...
 

aleccesarenriquez

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I'd look into getting your block sleeved or voodoo/predator block.

Ur boost numbers are off...
Pretty sure Gen 3 motors are making right around 1100 at 15 -16 psi
 
 




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