honeybadger
Just don't care
I had the very end of a valve spring chip off and score up my oil pump. But the car was running great and had no issues when I tore it down.
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correct engine break-in procedure - nurse for 100miles only!
sublime1996525
Well-Known Member
This is also how I broke mine in. 18k miles so far with no issues.
CANTWN4LSN
Well-Known Member
1) There are those on this forum who babied their engines (kept it under 4-6000 rpm) for the first 1000 miles and have no oil consumption.
2) There are those on this forum who broke it in according to the manual and the race engine that it is and had to have their engine replaced for excessive oil consumption.
3) There are those including in this present thread who read the manual and don't seem to understand that no extended wot doesn't mean keep it below 6000 rpm.
4) There are those who broke it in by the manual and have settled at a quart per 1500 miles.
This thing is all over the place and there is no one incontrovertible fact about oil consumption and break in. I agree do it by the manual but I wouldn't say that is the final answer or even a clearly demonstrated reason for oil consumption less than one quart per 3000 miles. I would love to know what Ford knows about the engines they replaced. I would love it if someone broke down an engine that uses a quart per 1500 miles and said everything was fine. As for now just keep driving it as it was meant to be driven and get an extended warranty. And if you are buying used you have no idea how it was broken in.
2) There are those on this forum who broke it in according to the manual and the race engine that it is and had to have their engine replaced for excessive oil consumption.
3) There are those including in this present thread who read the manual and don't seem to understand that no extended wot doesn't mean keep it below 6000 rpm.
4) There are those who broke it in by the manual and have settled at a quart per 1500 miles.
This thing is all over the place and there is no one incontrovertible fact about oil consumption and break in. I agree do it by the manual but I wouldn't say that is the final answer or even a clearly demonstrated reason for oil consumption less than one quart per 3000 miles. I would love to know what Ford knows about the engines they replaced. I would love it if someone broke down an engine that uses a quart per 1500 miles and said everything was fine. As for now just keep driving it as it was meant to be driven and get an extended warranty. And if you are buying used you have no idea how it was broken in.
johnny1
Well-Known Member
Never what you would call nursed any new vehicle to break it in. But did use the common sense of not driving them balls to the wall brand new. Your not just talking engine break in. You have new gears in the drivetrain (tranny and differential ) that should be given a reasonable amount of time not at high speed to be able to settle in matted to each other. And was easy on brakes a few hundred miles so they would seat properly. Definitely known guys in the past bitching about there performance car developing a whine in the differential from having drove them brand new like they stole them. Duh!
911GT350R
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #20
Yes it is all over the place...thus creating lots of confusion for new buyers. The only reason I am wanting concise details is because of the number of 350s with excessive oil consumption and/ engine failures. I find it hard to believe noone has actually been able to pin point what is causing the failed engines. And here we are after almost 4 years, amazing.
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Tomster
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Rumor is that engines with excessive oil consumption are because of defective parts. So, follow the manual and use a lot of common sense and your engine will be fine.
ChiefDork
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The engineers that design and build the engines in modern cars have a lot of history to reference when making decisions for their current projects. I have wondered why, with all the improvements in metallurgy, lubricants, procedures, and quality control, that the common break-in procedure has remained essentially the same for decades.
The people who have posted to this thread have run the gamut in terms of how they have broken in their engine and there is no obvious consequence for the different methods. That, combined with no real changes in the break-in procedures put out by the car companies leads me to believe that it really doesn't matter from a reliability perspective. Proper ring sealing does not impact warranty claims but it does have a role in power production.
I believe it does not matter how the engine is broken in from Ford's perspective. People who hit redline pulling out of the dealer lot do not have more warranty claims than the person who babies it for 1000 miles.
Therefore, whatever break-in procedure you feel comfortable with is the proper procedure. In my opinion.
And the relative worth of that is certainly debatable.
The people who have posted to this thread have run the gamut in terms of how they have broken in their engine and there is no obvious consequence for the different methods. That, combined with no real changes in the break-in procedures put out by the car companies leads me to believe that it really doesn't matter from a reliability perspective. Proper ring sealing does not impact warranty claims but it does have a role in power production.
I believe it does not matter how the engine is broken in from Ford's perspective. People who hit redline pulling out of the dealer lot do not have more warranty claims than the person who babies it for 1000 miles.
Therefore, whatever break-in procedure you feel comfortable with is the proper procedure. In my opinion.
And the relative worth of that is certainly debatable.
ChiefDork
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I think the best way to answer your question is to reveal how I broke my engine in: I took it easy for 1000 miles by varying my speed and running it to 7000 on a schedule for the express purpose of seating the rings. My first trip to 8250rpms happened at mile 1001. I think 7000rpms at WOT puts plenty of stress on the rings to get them to seat.
I do not know if it is my method of breaking in the engine or simply luck, but I do not consume any oil between oil changes. I do lose a lot of oil when my oil pressure sensor vibrates loose though.
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ChiefDork
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Perhaps "schedule" was a poor word choice. The opportunities to go to 7000rpms in a 500+ horsepower car in Melbourne FL do not happen every day. I did constantly vary my speed during the break-in period, and if memory serves I would run to 7000rpms three or four times a week.
Please don't think I have an inside source at Ford or something like that. I am just posting what has worked for me on multiple new car purchases.
GT30fan
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So riddle me this, batman....
So I have a new 2019, about 6 miles. It is sitting here in the cold, waiting for April or May to awaken from hibernation
Would it be bad to start it once in a while, for the sake of keeping the battery charged, since it is not broken in yet?
Or if I did, after warming up a minute or so, should it be gunned?
Or is it best to just buy a trickle charger? For all I know, it may already be dead .....been sitting maybe 2-3 weeks or so out there thus far
So I have a new 2019, about 6 miles. It is sitting here in the cold, waiting for April or May to awaken from hibernation
Would it be bad to start it once in a while, for the sake of keeping the battery charged, since it is not broken in yet?
Or if I did, after warming up a minute or so, should it be gunned?
Or is it best to just buy a trickle charger? For all I know, it may already be dead .....been sitting maybe 2-3 weeks or so out there thus far
JAJ
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This summary is excellent - thank you!
There is an important point though - all of the "don't do this before 1,000 miles" stuff is exactly what a doctor would order for the smooth and effective break-in of the differential and the gearbox. If you want an indication of how that turns out, do a diff and trans oil change at 1,000 miles - it'll come out pretty mucked up with debris from the break-in period. It's shocking, actually.
So, regardless of people's views on engine break-in, the first thousand miles matter a lot for other moving parts that deserve our care and attention.
drummerboy
Well-Known Member
There's not much you can do on the street that could be described as "extended WOT maneuvers" - so just don't worry about it so much, just don't baby it.
If you got it new, and you want to make some attempt at helping those rings bed, keep it simple and immediately (after she's warm) get in 3rd gear and give her a few good 50% throttle romps to 4k. Then a few good 75% throttle romps to 6k, and then a few WOT to 8k. After that follow the usual varying RPM stuff but feel free to drive it as hard as you can get away with on the street, because what you can do on public roads is just not all that extreme. Perhaps just stay away from excessive hooning til the clock ticks 1000.
I got mine with 2mi on the odometer and got through all of the above probably by mile 8 or so. The above description is the TLDR of all the info I could gather about giving the Voodoo (or any engine, really) a good start.
If you got it new, and you want to make some attempt at helping those rings bed, keep it simple and immediately (after she's warm) get in 3rd gear and give her a few good 50% throttle romps to 4k. Then a few good 75% throttle romps to 6k, and then a few WOT to 8k. After that follow the usual varying RPM stuff but feel free to drive it as hard as you can get away with on the street, because what you can do on public roads is just not all that extreme. Perhaps just stay away from excessive hooning til the clock ticks 1000.
I got mine with 2mi on the odometer and got through all of the above probably by mile 8 or so. The above description is the TLDR of all the info I could gather about giving the Voodoo (or any engine, really) a good start.
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