Oil leak - self-inflicted

[sdiver68]

So like many of you I changed my own oil and filter on my 2018 Mustang. Despite having several oil filter wrenches in my garage I did not have the 14 flute type. With the space available my strap wrench was not very effective.

So I went with hand tight and about 1/8th with the strap wrench. Not a problem or so I thought...and wasn't for 4k miles. Until I discovered a small bit of oil on my garage floor yesterday.

It has turned colder here and apparently just enough to unseal my filter. So I tightened by hand and 1/4th by strap wrench. Oh, and I just ordered the 74 flute filter wrench.

So the next time you read that someone went with hand tight and have never had a problem...well here you go.

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[Zinc03svt]

Yeah I typically hand tighten myself, but grip strength of different people would allow a lot of variance of actual tightness.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I go as tight as I can hand grip. If I feel the filter casing flex because I’m gripping hard enough to turn, I know I’m good.

I think this is a common issue. My first change (post purchase) the filter had a leak due to not being tight enough from the dealer changing the oil.

 

[BlackandBlue]

Yeah I typically hand tighten myself, but grip strength of different people would allow a lot of variance of actual tightness.

I am always more worried about breaking something hand tighting to far.

I don’t own a filter wrench though and also have never had one I could remove by hand. Sometimes two hands are need I will admit.

I think the rule of thumb here is it you need a wrench to get it off you most likely need one to put it on.

 

[brucelinc]

I have always hand tightened my filters and never had a leak. Wouldn't dream of putting a wrench to it to tighten it. I usually do use a wrench to remove it because it is hot.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Gotta ask ... everyone doing their own changes is lubricating the gasket/seal on the filter before installing, right? I use what was recommended for piston aircraft oil filters: Dow Corning #4 Dielectric grease (or clean oil in a pinch),

 

[brucelinc]

Gotta ask ... everyone doing their own changes is lubricating the gasket/seal on the filter before installing, right? I use what was recommended for piston aircraft oil filters: Dow Corning #4 Dielectric grease (or clean oil in a pinch),

I just use clean oil. I also pour oil in the filter prior to installation.

 

[18usc371]

I just use clean oil. I also pour oil in the filter prior to installation.

I've a;ways done the exact same thing - without issues - on every vehicle I've owned.

Also, thanks to the advise/warnings of people on this forum, and buried in the owner's manual, an printed right on the filter (my avatar is the top of the filter), I do use a t-wrench on my 5.2.

 

[Genxer]

I have never have used a wrench to tighten an oil filter on any car. Not sure where I got the info (maybe off the filter itself somewhere), but I always try to get 3/4 of a turn past initial seal contact.

I take filters off by any means. If a filter wrench doesn't do it, then a big pair of locking pliers never fail.

 

[Genxer]

Vicegrips have gotten me out of trouble so many times.

Specifically, a big pair of these...

 

[2018OFPP1?2]

I have never have used a wrench to tighten an oil filter on any car. Not sure where I got the info (maybe off the filter itself somewhere), but I always try to get 3/4 of a turn past initial seal contact.

+1

At least 3/4 of a turn after seal contact is what I learned also, and I haven't had a filter seal leak hand tightening with this method in 35 years of oil changes.

 

[Cueball]

Hand tighten here, pretty much as hard as I can turn. Never an issue. But I have Popeye forearms (not really). lol

 

[Strokerswild]

Gotta ask ... everyone doing their own changes is lubricating the gasket/seal on the filter before installing, right? I use what was recommended for piston aircraft oil filters: Dow Corning #4 Dielectric grease (or clean oil in a pinch),

Clean oil, a must.

Reason: so the new seal 'slips' during installation, but also so the seal is less likely stick to the filter mount when removing the filter. I recall once seeing the result of not doing so, and the changer not checking to see if the seal on the old filter stayed put on the removed filter. Old filter came off, seal stayed on the mount, new filter went on over the old seal. The instant the key was turned, all the new oil spewed out the instant the pressure hit the stacked seals. The changer was not amused. I was, but it wasn't my garage floor.

To recap, check to be sure the seal stayed on the old filter, and lube the seal on the new filter.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Clean oil, a must.

Reason: so the new seal 'slips' during installation, but also so the seal is less likely stick to the filter mount when removing the filter. I recall once seeing the result of not doing so, and the changer not checking to see if the seal on the old filter stayed put on the removed filter. Old filter came off, seal stayed on the mount, new filter went on over the old seal. The instant the key was turned, all the new oil spewed out the instant the pressure hit the stacked seals. The changer was not amused. I was, but it wasn't my garage floor.

To recap, check to be sure the seal stayed on the old filter, and lube the seal on the new filter.

... and be glad you don't have to change one of these (I converted my cars to spin-on, partly because it was nigh impossible to get the O-ring at the adapter end to seal up):

 

[Bluedream]

i have always done hand tight and never had a problem. I am paranoid aswell so I run the car for 10 mins after the change and inspect under the car and I also put a piece of cardboard there over night and check in the morning( for slow leaks). but I have never seen a leak

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