Aggressive Fitment Thread

[10SpeedDemon]

lol, "no rubbing" and proceeds to post pic with crazy rubbing marks lmao

Lol I mean there is some camber added

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[myboostedgst]

I'll try to get some better photos eventually, but here are a few. Front definitely isn't aggressive, but I cant go any more before rubbing fenders on springs. Rear is decently offset, but still sits high. The ride is too nice currently to go coilovers, so I'll just be happy with the current fitment.

Work Emotion D9R. 19x10.5 +30 (Square)
285/35 Firehawk
H&R Super Sport Springs

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang-1-4 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

 

[ModularKid21]

I'll try to get some better photos eventually, but here are a few.

Work Emotion D9R. 19x10.5 +30 (Square)
285/35 Firehawk
H&R Super Sport Springs

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Mustang-1-4 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Nicely done. How much camber??

 

[myboostedgst]

Nicely done. How much camber??

-1.5 front / -2.4 rear

 

[ModularKid21]

Does it rub because I have a similar same but I have a 20x10.5 with a 45 offset on a 315 tire but it rubs on the passenger rear so I’m thinking I need a higher offset like 20x11/50+ Offset

Something around 55 would likely help. With the 10.5” you’re using, that 315 is bulging and that’s contributing to the rubbing. The biggest culprit is that you’re using a 315/35 on a 20” wheel. That’s a 28.7” tire. With a 275/35 up front, a 315/30 would be a better fit, matching the diameter of the fronts, and would more than likely cure your rubbing issue

 

[illtal]

Does it rub because I have a similar same but I have a 20x10.5 with a 45 offset on a 315 tire but it rubs on the passenger rear so I’m thinking I need a higher offset like 20x11/50+ Offset

I run a 20x10.5 et+42 in the rear.
It does not run with a 285 or a 295 rear tire.
I do have camber as well.

 

[myboostedgst]

Does it rub because I have a similar same but I have a 20x10.5 with a 45 offset on a 315 tire but it rubs on the passenger rear so I’m thinking I need a higher offset like 20x11/50+ Offset

If speaking to me, I do not rub at all.

 

[Konaboii]

Hey guys 151 page thread reader, first time commenter.

I’ve ordered a set of Work wheels

20x9 +30
20x11 +41

Will the rear factory camber bolt be able to adjust to fit these in?

I will also be fitting BC coilovers at the same time so does this provide camber without touching the bolt first?

What tyre sizes do you think will be needed?

Thinking 255/35/20 and 295/35/20?

Also realising after reading this thread that that front will need a 10-20mm spacer to be more flush which is annoying

 

[myboostedgst]

Hey guys 151 page thread reader, first time commenter.

I’ve ordered a set of Work wheels

20x9 +30
20x11 +41

Will the rear factory camber bolt be able to adjust to fit these in?

I will also be fitting BC coilovers at the same time so does this provide camber without touching the bolt first?

What tyre sizes do you think will be needed?

Thinking 255/35/20 and 295/35/20?

Also realising after reading this thread that that front will need a 10-20mm spacer to be more flush which is annoying

Welcome to the Work crew.

9” is really narrow on the front. Could you have gone 10”? I’m 10.5 square but 19’s.

Also, what Works come in 20’s? From what I’ve seen they all stopped at 19”.

 

[Konaboii]

Welcome to the Work crew.

9” is really narrow on the front. Could you have gone 10”? I’m 10.5 square but 19’s.

Also, what Works come in 20’s? From what I’ve seen they all stopped at 19”.

Thankyaa. Yeah they make heaps of 20’s il supply a pic of the ones im waiting on

And you’re very correct about the front being narrow but im fine with that plus it steers so good with 9’s from factory that it’s fine for the very minimal driving that i do

il get extended wheel studs and a spacer to stance them out

i really wish i read this thread before i ordered them or i would of ordered x10 fronts and x12 rears, oh well that’s fine, next set of wheels.

The 9’s will be okay i was worried about it hunting all over the road here in Australia.

I would like someone to comment if they know about my newly purchased rear offset and if the bc coil suspension drop and factory camber bolt will let me tuck the lips?

I’m not wanting to buy camber arms unless i really have to

 

[Konaboii]

20x9.5 and 20x11

Don’t know if you’ve posted it already but what are your offsets especially with the rear 11”s

 

[MustangNewbie]

Hey guys 151 page thread reader, first time commenter.

I’ve ordered a set of Work wheels

20x9 +30
20x11 +41

Will the rear factory camber bolt be able to adjust to fit these in?

I will also be fitting BC coilovers at the same time so does this provide camber without touching the bolt first?

What tyre sizes do you think will be needed?

Thinking 255/35/20 and 295/35/20?

Also realising after reading this thread that that front will need a 10-20mm spacer to be more flush which is annoying

G'day Tim
I see you liked one of my posts so you may have seen the wheels on my Ruby Red GT in my posts. I have 20 x 10.5 with +38 offset on the rear with 295/35 R20s and the camber is at -2.0 deg but the tyres still touch (very lightly) if It bounces too much, such as the down side of bigger speed humps. But I'm also running Steeda 1 inch lowering springs. I do believe I could make the camber more negative with the stock camber arm but I do a lot of longer drives on almost dead straight roads and don't want to wear out the inside of my tyres. I think you should be able to achieve what you want with the standard camber arm but it will need about -3.0 deg camber to clear the guards (just guessing).

 

[Konaboii]

G'day Tim
I see you liked one of my posts so you may have seen the wheels on my Ruby Red GT in my posts. I have 20 x 10.5 with +38 offset on the rear with 295/35 R20s and the camber is at -2.0 deg but the tyres still touch (very lightly) if It bounces too much, such as the down side of bigger speed humps. But I'm also running Steeda 1 inch lowering springs. I do believe I could make the camber more negative with the stock camber arm but I do a lot of longer drives on almost dead straight roads and don't want to wear out the inside of my tyres. I think you should be able to achieve what you want with the standard camber arm but it will need about -3.0 deg camber to clear the guards (just guessing).

awesome car by the way mate! thats -2*degrees? still looks straight almost, dang il need 3-5 for sure if my wheels sit out 5-10mm more

il definitely run the same tyres as you on my 11's, looks good

im trying to space the front out equally and finding reasonably priced arp studs is tough

i dont mind wearing out the inside of the tyre, il probably get over it but worth a try

cheers for the info!

 

[MustangNewbie]

awesome car by the way mate! thats -2*degrees? still looks straight almost, dang il need 3-5 for sure if my wheels sit out 5-10mm more

il definitely run the same tyres as you on my 11's, looks good

im trying to space the front out equally and finding reasonably priced arp studs is tough

i dont mind wearing out the inside of the tyre, il probably get over it but worth a try

cheers for the info!

Hi again
Based on the fact that your rims will be 1/2 inch wider, therefore 1/4 inch inside and 1/4 inch outside, by my calculations your wheel would only sit out about 1/4 inch further (6.35mm) subtract from that the extra 3mm offset your wheels have and you're only left with about 3.35mm more sitting outside. but the fact that you're going to use the same size tyres will be further in your favour and you shouldn't need to have much negative camber. I still think -3 deg would be the maximum it needs, you may even get away with the same as mine (-2 deg). Ford spec is about -1.5 deg and Ford Performance spec is about -2 deg. So if you're not deviating too much from those you won't wear the tyres too badly.
PS thanks for the compliment and please post the pics of yours with the new wheels when you get them.

 

[Konaboii]

Hi again
Based on the fact that your rims will be 1/2 inch wider, therefore 1/4 inch inside and 1/4 inch outside, by my calculations your wheel would only sit out about 1/4 inch further (6.35mm) subtract from that the extra 3mm offset your wheels have and you're only left with about 3.35mm more sitting outside. but the fact that you're going to use the same size tyres will be further in your favour and you shouldn't need to have much negative camber. I still think -3 deg would be the maximum it needs, you may even get away with the same as mine (-2 deg). Ford spec is about -1.5 deg and Ford Performance spec is about -2 deg. So if you're not deviating too much from those you won't wear the tyres too badly.
PS thanks for the compliment and please post the pics of yours with the new wheels when you get them.

your maths does sound correct sir thankyou and yeah hoping to lower it a fair bit when its all here so im curious as to if il need -2/3deg or more.

thanks for the extra info mate

i picture the tyre angled right under the guard with the lip close to the guard so i might camber it that bit extra for tuckage

100% be posting pics on here when its done but sadly i still have just under 3 months to wait for my wheels from Work so we'll all be waiting a while, im more concerned about the front looking good, it should sit near your fronts without the spacers im trying to find

like i enjoy seeing your set up and it looks aggressive as it is but a 10-15mm front spacer on yours would look spiceyyy but then you need to add camber then worry about rubbing and who wants to do that haha. me

also do you have a straight down pic from the rear guard to see the tyre poke/recess at -2*?

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