Break in oil change

[13razorbackfan]

I have a 2019 GT Premium and was curious when I can really start to lay the hammer down? Car has 300 miles on it now when should I do first oil change on this motor? I run Amsoil in all my landscaping equipment and was going to put the 5-20 in it. I live in Arkansas and it gets pretty hot in the summer and in the winter only occasionally will it get down into the teens. Should I run a different weight?

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[gstboy69]

Change the oem oil as quick possible. Put 10 quartz of shell rotella T6 5w-40 or Castrol Edge 5w-30 with a Ceratec bottle.

 

[TuxedoPC]

I have a 2019 GT Premium and was curious when I can really start to lay the hammer down? Car has 300 miles on it now when should I do first oil change on this motor? I run Amsoil in all my landscaping equipment and was going to put the 5-20 in it. I live in Arkansas and it gets pretty hot in the summer and in the winter only occasionally will it get down into the teens. Should I run a different weight?

Did my first oil change by dealer at 700 miles or so. If you add things to the oil or change it past Ford recommendation of 5-20 and 5-30 and they find out. Any warranty claim will be denied motor wise

 

[13razorbackfan]

Did my first oil change by dealer at 700 miles or so. If you add things to the oil or change it past Ford recommendation of 5-20 and 5-30 and they find out. Any warranty claim will be denied motor wise

Yeah ran into that issue with some Stihl equipment I own. I wonder if I should switch to 10-30 since its warmer here more often than getting really cold. It does get down to the teens occassionally.

 

[TuxedoPC]

Yeah ran into that issue with some Stihl equipment I own. I wonder if I should switch to 10-30 since its warmer here more often than getting really cold. It does get down to the teens occassionally.

Yeah I like playing it safe.

 

[gstboy69]

Did my first oil change by dealer at 700 miles or so. If you add things to the oil or change it past Ford recommendation of 5-20 and 5-30 and they find out. Any warranty claim will be denied motor wise

Dont worried about warranty this coyote engines its like a Cummins or Caterpillar.

 

[GregO]

Car has 300 miles on it now when should I do first oil change on this motor?

I’m from the school that some oils can be to good by not allowing the normal break in process of burnishing and ring seal to take place. Typically a quality modern non-synthetic oil allows for the most complete break in and highest ring seal. After the break in period is complete would be the correct time to switch to full synthetics.

Yes there’s the argument that modern Diamond plateaued honed Nikasil coated cylinders (or like coatings) and coated rings shouldn’t need non-synthetic oils to seat and seal but honestly IMO the absolute best ring seals ( = highest cylinder compression) and burnishing take place when high quality modern non-synthetic or synthetic blended oils are used.

Motorcraft 5W-20 that is filled at the factory should be run no less than 3000 miles for this very important and often overlooked burnishing process. It's hard for some to get past running the factory fill this long and jump the gun to full syn. This action will stop the ring sealing event and cause long term oil consumption control.

Just one mans opinion.

 

[TuxedoPC]

I’m from the school that some oils can be to good by not allowing the normal break in process of burnishing and ring seal to take place. Typically a quality modern non-synthetic oil allows for the most complete break in and highest ring seal. After the break in period is complete would be the correct time to switch to full synthetics.

Yes there’s the argument that modern Diamond plateaued honed Nikasil coated cylinders (or like coatings) and coated rings shouldn’t need non-synthetic oils to seat and seal but honestly IMO the absolute best ring seals ( = highest cylinder compression) and burnishing take place when high quality modern non-synthetic or synthetic blended oils are used.

Motorcraft 5W-20 that is filled at the factory should be run no less than 3000 miles (5000 is even better) for this very important and often overlooked burnishing process. It's hard for some to get past running the factory fill this long and jump the gun to full syn. This action will hinder ring seal and long term oil consumption control.

Just one mans opinion.

I would like to agree with you but these are different cylinder walls then what you are used to. They plasma board. Secondly Ford uses a Synthetic Blend, not straight Synthetic

 

[GregO]

I would like to agree with you but these are different cylinder walls then what you are used to. They plasma board. Secondly Ford uses a Synthetic Blend, not straight Synthetic

What cylinder walls am I use to ?
Motorcraft 5W-20 factory fill that I referenced is Blended Semisynthetic.

Iron, iron liner, or any of the chemically / electrically deposit coated cylinders still require proper burnishing to seal low tension rings. Going straight to Full synthetic before 100% ring seal (3000 miles) will inhibit ring seal causing cylinder wall streaking and glazed cylinders / rings which never seal properly without teardown, diamond honing and ring replacement.

 

[TuxedoPC]

What cylinder walls am I use to ?
Motorcraft 5W-20 factory fill that I referenced is Blended Semisynthetic.

Iron, iron liner, or any of the chemically / electrically deposit coated cylinders still require proper burnishing to seal low tension rings. Going straight to Full synthetic before 100% ring seal (3000 to 5000 miles) will inhibit ring seal causing cylinder wall streaking and glazed cylinders / rings which never seal properly without teardown, diamond honing and ring replacement.

Thats interesting because I know a couple manufactures that use full synthetic off the bat

 

[EFI]

Going straight to Full synthetic before 100% ring seal (3000 miles) will inhibit ring seal causing cylinder wall streaking and glazed cylinders / rings which never seal properly without teardown, diamond honing and ring replacement.

Weird, because the GT350 Voodoo engine's factory fill is a 100% fully synthetic...so sounds like Ford doesn't agree with your statement there unless they break in every engine for 3000 miles before dropping them into the chassis.

 

[GregO]

Weird, because the GT350 Voodoo engine's factory fill is a 100% fully synthetic...so sounds like Ford doesn't agree with your statement there unless they break in every engine for 3000 miles before dropping them into the chassis.

75% to 80% ring seal is good enough for mass production. It’s the last 20% to 25% that's tough to hit especially with full synthetic.
There’s more than a few SAE papers floating around about the subject along with top engine builders both automotive and powersports that advocate high quality mineral break in oil.

Again, just one mans opinion but the info. is out there.
All things being equal the motor that achieves the last 20% or so of ring seal will run stronger and harder than the motor that stopped at 75% to 80% ring seal.

 

[EFI]

75% to 80% ring seal is good enough for mass production. It’s the last 20% to 25% that's tough to hit especially with full synthetic.
There’s more than a few SAE papers floating around about the subject along with top engine builders both automotive and powersports that advocate high quality mineral break in oil.

Again, just one mans opinion but the info. is out there.
All things being equal the motor that achieves the last 20% or so of ring seal will run stronger and harder than the motor that stopped at 75% to 80% ring seal.

That's true, but it just seems weird that Ford would let that much ring seal on the table especially when all they had to do is change out the factory fill from full synthetic to something else and then simply recommend any further oil changes to be done with their full synthetic. While technically the GT350 is a mass produced car, it's pretty niche and I'm sure Ford spent millions upon millions of dollars perfecting the engine to extract all that power. Seems silly to give up 20% ring seal efficiency over 2 gallons of oil.

 

[GregO]

While technically the GT350 is a mass produced car, it's pretty niche and I'm sure Ford spent millions upon millions of dollars perfecting the engine to extract all that power.

I don’t usually reference forum posts but the amount of GT350 oil consumption threads out there is more than enough to raise my eyebrow.

Ford’s GT350 supplemental manual is very specific on how the consumer should break in the motor to achieve maximum ring seal.

The conspiracy side of me wonders if Ford is actually filling the VooDoo’s with 100% Syn. or some other magic potion to get the low tension rings to seal that last 20% or so.
Then again maybe GT350 owners that dump the factory fill early are the ones experiencing oil consumption issues ?

 

[EFI]

I don’t usually reference forum posts but the amount of GT350 oil consumption threads out there is more than enough to raise my eyebrow.

If the rings are not seated properly due to the full synthetic oil in from the factory and thus only achieving 80% seal then you would see more than just oil burning. You would also see less than normal cylinder pressure when doing a compression test which I have not seen any threads on. Not sure if compression rings break in differently than oil control rings, but if it was truly a seating/break in issue then it would be more problematic than just oil burning.

My theory on the oil burning is a combination of the looser 4032 pistons and 8250rpm redline.

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