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(FORD CAN’T DIAGNOSE) 2017 GT350 Rear End Pop (videos)

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Caseindaplace

Caseindaplace

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I think one of the long term test cars at either Car and Driver or MotorTrend had a similar issue that was fixed by taking the wheels off, cleaning the mating faces, and re-installing with appropriate torque.
Wow ok interesting. I’m anxious to get home and try it after I did the wheel torque down
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Across all S550 platforms:

There is a thread in the sub-forum called “Transmission/Drivetrain” instructing S550 owners to check the torque (and re-torque) the rear axle retaining nuts to 150 ft-lb...

Also there have been many reported instances of premature rear wheel bearing failures - even cars with super low miles ... and some owners having had the same replaced 3x....

———
Usually as others have mentioned, the CV could be the culprit, but one would think a competent Ford Dealer Tech would have been able to diagnose that rather easily....
 
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Caseindaplace

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Across all S550 platforms:

There is a thread in the sub-forum called “Transmission/Drivetrain” instructing S550 owners to check the torque (and re-torque) the rear axle retaining nuts to 150 ft-lb...

Also there have been many reported instances of premature rear wheel bearing failures - even cars with super low miles ... and some owners having had the same replaced 3x....

———
Usually as others have mentioned, the CV could be the culprit, but one would think a competent Ford Dealer Tech would have been able to diagnose that rather easily....

I am going to take the car out today to check the lug re torque, I should have checked the axle nut when the dang wheel was off but stupid me. If it persists I will check that for sure.
 
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Caseindaplace

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Across all S550 platforms:

There is a thread in the sub-forum called “Transmission/Drivetrain” instructing S550 owners to check the torque (and re-torque) the rear axle retaining nuts to 150 ft-lb...

Also there have been many reported instances of premature rear wheel bearing failures - even cars with super low miles ... and some owners having had the same replaced 3x....

———
Usually as others have mentioned, the CV could be the culprit, but one would think a competent Ford Dealer Tech would have been able to diagnose that rather easily....

Side note, today I noticed that the lug torque didn’t work 100% although I feel the noise has reduced in volume and frequency. What is the lug torque recommendation? I’m still going to check the axle nut so when I button it all back up again I want to make sure the specs are right.

Second side note, I noticed on a right swooping turn in the neighborhood (20mph throughout the turn) that the same pop happened during the turn. New development. Ideas? Same possibility still?
 

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I think it’s 150 ft pounds. Look in the manual
 

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Caseindaplace

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I think it’s 150 ft pounds. Look in the manual
I’ll have to find one online. Mine didn’t come with one (used) :-/

On top of that right turn pop, I noticed as well when I come up to rail road tracks (on the upslope) right before I cross over the tracks I cut right to go across slowly on an angle. Once I cut right it also pops. Makes me believe that (if indeed the axle nut is loose) that’s where the play is when the forces shift. I’m on my way home now to verify but thought I’d also add this while I’m stopped.
 

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Across all S550 platforms:

There is a thread in the sub-forum called “Transmission/Drivetrain” instructing S550 owners to check the torque (and re-torque) the rear axle retaining nuts to 150 ft-lb...

Also there have been many reported instances of premature rear wheel bearing failures - even cars with super low miles ... and some owners having had the same replaced 3x....

———
Usually as others have mentioned, the CV could be the culprit, but one would think a competent Ford Dealer Tech would have been able to diagnose that rather easily....
My passenger rear wheel hub was replaced at about 1,000 miles. I did not have your popping noise though.
 
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Caseindaplace

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Took the wheels off.

Axle nuts are the new improved nuts w/o the plastic backing and equipped with thread lock.

Wheels and lugs all tightened to spec.

Popping is still there on occasion.

Going to take to get a second look at, at a shop.

Has to be something myself and everyone looking at it is overlooking.

If it doesn’t happen consistently every time, would that rule out something major such as a cv joint?
 

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Took the wheels off.

Axle nuts are the new improved nuts w/o the plastic backing and equipped with thread lock.

Wheels and lugs all tightened to spec.

Popping is still there on occasion.

Going to take to get a second look at, at a shop.

Has to be something myself and everyone looking at it is overlooking.

If it doesn’t happen consistently every time, would that rule out something major such as a cv joint?
I still think it's something to do with the brakes. If not the parking brake assembly inside the hub, then maybe a loose caliper or brake pad. If it was a rotating part like a CV joint, it'd have failed completely by now, or at least be noisy all the time. This is a loose part that moves occasionally and it's not critical to the operation of the vehicle (or the vehicle wouldn't be operating).

The new hub nuts are not "improved', they're just different. I prefer the originals from the factory with the captive washer, actually.
 
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I still think it's something to do with the brakes. If not the parking brake assembly inside the hub, then maybe a loose caliper or brake pad. If it was a rotating part like a CV joint, it'd have failed completely by now, or at least be noisy all the time. This is a loose part that moves occasionally and it's not critical to the operation of the vehicle (or the vehicle wouldn't be operating).

The new hub nuts are not "improved', they're just different. I prefer the originals from the factory with the captive washer, actually.

Ohhh I didn’t realIze they were not improved nuts, just assumed that was a reason for a change.

I guess I will move on to brakes. I always thought it was something loose somewhere as it happens it seems when the car moves forward or backwards with pep And even left and right with the car rolls as described earlier
 
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I still think it's something to do with the brakes. If not the parking brake assembly inside the hub, then maybe a loose caliper or brake pad. If it was a rotating part like a CV joint, it'd have failed completely by now, or at least be noisy all the time. This is a loose part that moves occasionally and it's not critical to the operation of the vehicle (or the vehicle wouldn't be operating).

The new hub nuts are not "improved', they're just different. I prefer the originals from the factory with the captive washer, actually.

I was just checking the caliper and pads. Calipers are tight. Rear pads have some play. See videos. Is this normal? Car is off, in gear and emergency brake is engaged.

Driver side


Passenger side
 

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Could be the brake caliper pistons sticking a bit and the pads making the noise. If you take the wheels off, get some Brake Clean and give the calipers and pistons a good cleaning. Try coming to a stop and presses the brakes hard, then move the car and see if the noise is there and louder.
 

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I was just checking the caliper and pads. Calipers are tight. Rear pads have some play. See videos. Is this normal? Car is off, in gear and emergency brake is engaged.

Driver side


Passenger side
Not normal. Something weird is going on.
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