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I DON'T have the tick but I have the 2K Rattle

Wheat392

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19 GT Manual 2k rattle

Although this topic has had significant coverage, I wanted to provide both observations discovered during diagnosis and my theories based on those observations. I performed a series of tests to help determine the source and rule out other potential sources.

Tests:

· lock all 4 cam phasers by disconnecting them and running the engine, creating the same rattle. No change still 2k rattle.

· Isolated each phaser by disconnecting, recreated the rattle then shut the engine off, reconnected and disconnected another (resets the computer so the next phaser is isolated). No change still 2k rattle. These two tests help to rule out the timing and VCT system creating the rattle.

· Stethoscope on the high-pressure fuel pump. No noticeable link to 2k rattle noise.

· Power balance test by disconnecting each coil and recreating the noise with no change in the 2k rattle. This helps rule out piston slap or rod bearings as the 2k rattle would change characteristics based on being down a cylinder. Not saying it would go away, just would create some kind of change.

· Hooked up a multi-channel automotive stethoscope, These use microphones on a clip hooked to a box with headphones. It allows you to switch channels while creating the noise to isolate its origin. The following areas were tested with the results listed. All were reviewed while creating the 2K rattle. (Steelman 06600 Chassis Ear)
· Rear dif - no noise
· Trans x member - small echo
· Rear trans - medium echo
· Bell housing - loud knock – Location of flywheel / clutch.
· Engine block - slight echo
· Clutch hydraulic line – with clutch pedal out, throw out bearing not contacting clutch no noise, clutch in, throw out bearing touching clutch loud noise. When raising and lowering the clutch without listening to the stethoscope, outside noise is unchanged. When the throw out bearing contacts the clutch, the noise travels through the fluid / lines and is a very clear distinction between engaged and disengaged. This test also made no difference on the mic hooked to the engine suggesting again, its not an issue with the engine, piston slap, etc.

Multi Channel Stethoscope
IMG_0115.jpg


· Placed an inspection camera up through the bell housing drain hole, documented video of outer dual mass flywheel moving with the inner flywheel not moving. This created a similar version of the noise. See linked video.

· Engine can be completely warm; noise is louder until you drive and heat up the trans / clutch. This suggests that, because the noise is consistent engine cold or warm, as long as it has not been driven, the clutch / flywheel are cold making the same noise. Drive it, warm up the clutch / flywheel and it gets quieter. My theory is heat softens the dampening material reducing the noise.

· Notes on the engine. 4 oil changes so far, no metal in oil filters, each one cut open. Compression is consistent across all cylinders. Small amount of cylinder scoring found in #5, no difference in compression to the others.

With the above info, it seems more likely this rattle is caused by the dual mass flywheel added to 18 and up manual mustangs to avoid high RPM lockout. Failed dual mass flywheels (many examples on YouTube) make a similar metal on metal rattle noise. See link: This also shows the 2 failure modes for a dual mass, rotational freedom and the ability for the 2 plates to touch. Go to 1:31 in linked video to see example.

I went to my local Ford dealer. Got a set of keys to a 2019 manual GT. It made the exact same noise immediately. This car has 100 miles on it.

My conclusion is, the addition of the 2018 and up dual mass flywheel is creating the 2k rattle condition. Replacing the flywheel with a new unit will not cure the noise. Only way this goes away is either 1, Ford releases / replaces current flywheels with an updated design or 2, owners put in a single mass flywheel and clutch, RAM clutches has a kit out already. I would hope Ford comes clean on the true root cause and provides a solution.

Apologies for the novel, wanted to share my thoughts and observations. Always remember these cars are awesome. Enjoy and send it!
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NIXPP2

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Thank you thank you thank you for taking the time to post this and do all the testing.
 

Condor1970

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I heard one theory is the flywheel rubbing something while slightly shifting position upon deceleration. Possibly rubbing the starter.

I only mention this, because my started having the decel grinding/rattle after I got a new installed with a new flywheel. Over time the noise has subsided, and is almost not noticeable now.
 

GT Pony

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With the above info, it seems more likely this rattle is caused by the dual mass flywheel added to 18 and up manual mustangs to avoid high RPM lockout.

My conclusion is, the addition of the 2018 and up dual mass flywheel is creating the 2k rattle condition. Replacing the flywheel with a new unit will not cure the noise. Only way this goes away is either 1, Ford releases / replaces current flywheels with an updated design or 2, owners put in a single mass flywheel and clutch, RAM clutches has a kit out already. I would hope Ford comes clean on the true root cause and provides a solution.
Good trouble-shooting, and makes sense that the 2K rattle could very well be the dual mass flywheel. But thought I've read hear on M6G that some guys with the automatic also experience a rattle around 2K. Maybe it's something else for them?

What would be interesting is if someone replaced the DMF with a regular aftermarket clutch assembly (a non-DMF) to see if their 2K rattle completely disappears.
 

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bizlipkick

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not sure why that last post isn't getting more conversation going, that's the most in depth research o have seen. bravo. question, are you concerned with the scoring ? I know , regardless of what people say around here, some cylinder scoring is normal depending on driving characteristics , etc.
 

GT Pony

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... question, are you concerned with the scoring ? I know , regardless of what people say around here, some cylinder scoring is normal depending on driving characteristics , etc.
Yes, Ford has a bulletin out that shows what kind of cylinder scoring is normal vs not normal ... light scoring is considered normal. It's been posted a few times by Cobra Jet in various threads.
 

Wheat392

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Good trouble-shooting, and makes sense that the 2K rattle could very well be the dual mass flywheel. But thought I've read hear on M6G that some guys with the automatic also experience a rattle around 2K. Maybe it's something else for them?

What would be interesting is if someone replaced the DMF with a regular aftermarket clutch assembly (a non-DMF) to see if their 2K rattle completely disappears.
I wonder the same thing about the auto noise. My friend has a F150 and the 2k range has what I would describe as a loud valvetrain. It’s softer and more frequent than the 2k sound from my manual. Curious if any auto cars have video of their rattle? Would be good to compare as You said, there’s a good chance we each have different type of rattle.
 

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19 GT Manual 2k rattle

Although this topic has had significant coverage, I wanted to provide both observations discovered during diagnosis and my theories based on those observations. I performed a series of tests to help determine the source and rule out other potential sources.

Tests:

· lock all 4 cam phasers by disconnecting them and running the engine, creating the same rattle. No change still 2k rattle.

· Isolated each phaser by disconnecting, recreated the rattle then shut the engine off, reconnected and disconnected another (resets the computer so the next phaser is isolated). No change still 2k rattle. These two tests help to rule out the timing and VCT system creating the rattle.

· Stethoscope on the high-pressure fuel pump. No noticeable link to 2k rattle noise.

· Power balance test by disconnecting each coil and recreating the noise with no change in the 2k rattle. This helps rule out piston slap or rod bearings as the 2k rattle would change characteristics based on being down a cylinder. Not saying it would go away, just would create some kind of change.

· Hooked up a multi-channel automotive stethoscope, These use microphones on a clip hooked to a box with headphones. It allows you to switch channels while creating the noise to isolate its origin. The following areas were tested with the results listed. All were reviewed while creating the 2K rattle. (Steelman 06600 Chassis Ear)
· Rear dif - no noise
· Trans x member - small echo
· Rear trans - medium echo
· Bell housing - loud knock – Location of flywheel / clutch.
· Engine block - slight echo
· Clutch hydraulic line – with clutch pedal out, throw out bearing not contacting clutch no noise, clutch in, throw out bearing touching clutch loud noise. When raising and lowering the clutch without listening to the stethoscope, outside noise is unchanged. When the throw out bearing contacts the clutch, the noise travels through the fluid / lines and is a very clear distinction between engaged and disengaged. This test also made no difference on the mic hooked to the engine suggesting again, its not an issue with the engine, piston slap, etc.

Multi Channel Stethoscope
IMG_0115.jpg


· Placed an inspection camera up through the bell housing drain hole, documented video of outer dual mass flywheel moving with the inner flywheel not moving. This created a similar version of the noise. See linked video.

· Engine can be completely warm; noise is louder until you drive and heat up the trans / clutch. This suggests that, because the noise is consistent engine cold or warm, as long as it has not been driven, the clutch / flywheel are cold making the same noise. Drive it, warm up the clutch / flywheel and it gets quieter. My theory is heat softens the dampening material reducing the noise.

· Notes on the engine. 4 oil changes so far, no metal in oil filters, each one cut open. Compression is consistent across all cylinders. Small amount of cylinder scoring found in #5, no difference in compression to the others.

With the above info, it seems more likely this rattle is caused by the dual mass flywheel added to 18 and up manual mustangs to avoid high RPM lockout. Failed dual mass flywheels (many examples on YouTube) make a similar metal on metal rattle noise. See link: This also shows the 2 failure modes for a dual mass, rotational freedom and the ability for the 2 plates to touch. Go to 1:31 in linked video to see example.

I went to my local Ford dealer. Got a set of keys to a 2019 manual GT. It made the exact same noise immediately. This car has 100 miles on it. This is consistent with the forum posts of only manual mustangs having the 2k rattle (NOT THE TICK, most 5.0’s have the tick).

My conclusion is, the addition of the 2018 and up dual mass flywheel is creating the 2k rattle condition. Replacing the flywheel with a new unit will not cure the noise. Only way this goes away is either 1, Ford releases / replaces current flywheels with an updated design or 2, owners put in a single mass flywheel and clutch, RAM clutches has a kit out already. I would hope Ford comes clean on the true root cause and provides a solution.

Apologies for the novel, wanted to share my thoughts and observations. Always remember these cars are awesome. Enjoy and send it!
I cannot express my gratitude for your work. Your deductive reasoning is on point and there's clear logic shown in the steps you took. I think you may be the one who finally puts this issue to bed.
I spent half my summer with my '19 sitting at the dealer with many techs trying to figure out what the issue may be while I was stuck driving a Lincoln loaner. This is not a knock against Lincoln, but as a 34 year old that bought a manual GT, a Lincoln Corsair wasn't exactly on my shopping list. I've heard the standard "the tech doesn't hear a noise" at first, but when I took the service adviser for a ride he confirmed he heard the rattle. Then it turned into "we don't know what to fix and Ford says the noise is normal".
While my dealer has been extremely polite and forthcoming through all this, it still didnt solve my rattle problem. Finally, the service adviser pulled up a brand new GT 6-speed like mine and we took it for a ride. Same noise.
That put my fears to rest a little bit but if I'm honest I couldn't get over what could be a problem. Visits to the forums made me worry more with tales of cylinder scoring, weird coating issues because of arc plasma-whatever liners, engine replacements etc. While my car ran like a scalded cat, the rattle persisted and so did my worry. Will I be able to slap a blower on it when my warranty expires like planned? Years of driving heavy trucks and equipment have taught me that while some breakdowns don't give you a warning, the right ear can catch a small problem before it turns into a big problem.
So my car rattled, and I worried.
But I believe that your thorough research and documentation have found the cause of my rattle worries. Everything lines up and your conclusions make perfect sense. I'll sleep better tonight and if you're ever in the Chicago area, send me a message so I can buy you a drink.:beer:
Thanks.
 

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bizlipkick

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I wonder what the rattle is in the auto also... but I like this explanation, I am sure their is something related in the automatic that is causing the noise also. not only did they go dual clutch for us but the new 10 speed is bound to have some weird stuff also
 

Issues

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19 GT Manual 2k rattle

Although this topic has had significant coverage, I wanted to provide both observations discovered during diagnosis and my theories based on those observations. I performed a series of tests to help determine the source and rule out other potential sources.

Tests:

· lock all 4 cam phasers by disconnecting them and running the engine, creating the same rattle. No change still 2k rattle.

· Isolated each phaser by disconnecting, recreated the rattle then shut the engine off, reconnected and disconnected another (resets the computer so the next phaser is isolated). No change still 2k rattle. These two tests help to rule out the timing and VCT system creating the rattle.

· Stethoscope on the high-pressure fuel pump. No noticeable link to 2k rattle noise.

· Power balance test by disconnecting each coil and recreating the noise with no change in the 2k rattle. This helps rule out piston slap or rod bearings as the 2k rattle would change characteristics based on being down a cylinder. Not saying it would go away, just would create some kind of change.

· Hooked up a multi-channel automotive stethoscope, These use microphones on a clip hooked to a box with headphones. It allows you to switch channels while creating the noise to isolate its origin. The following areas were tested with the results listed. All were reviewed while creating the 2K rattle. (Steelman 06600 Chassis Ear)
· Rear dif - no noise
· Trans x member - small echo
· Rear trans - medium echo
· Bell housing - loud knock – Location of flywheel / clutch.
· Engine block - slight echo
· Clutch hydraulic line – with clutch pedal out, throw out bearing not contacting clutch no noise, clutch in, throw out bearing touching clutch loud noise. When raising and lowering the clutch without listening to the stethoscope, outside noise is unchanged. When the throw out bearing contacts the clutch, the noise travels through the fluid / lines and is a very clear distinction between engaged and disengaged. This test also made no difference on the mic hooked to the engine suggesting again, its not an issue with the engine, piston slap, etc.

Multi Channel Stethoscope
IMG_0115.jpg


· Placed an inspection camera up through the bell housing drain hole, documented video of outer dual mass flywheel moving with the inner flywheel not moving. This created a similar version of the noise. See linked video.

· Engine can be completely warm; noise is louder until you drive and heat up the trans / clutch. This suggests that, because the noise is consistent engine cold or warm, as long as it has not been driven, the clutch / flywheel are cold making the same noise. Drive it, warm up the clutch / flywheel and it gets quieter. My theory is heat softens the dampening material reducing the noise.

· Notes on the engine. 4 oil changes so far, no metal in oil filters, each one cut open. Compression is consistent across all cylinders. Small amount of cylinder scoring found in #5, no difference in compression to the others.

With the above info, it seems more likely this rattle is caused by the dual mass flywheel added to 18 and up manual mustangs to avoid high RPM lockout. Failed dual mass flywheels (many examples on YouTube) make a similar metal on metal rattle noise. See link: This also shows the 2 failure modes for a dual mass, rotational freedom and the ability for the 2 plates to touch. Go to 1:31 in linked video to see example.

I went to my local Ford dealer. Got a set of keys to a 2019 manual GT. It made the exact same noise immediately. This car has 100 miles on it.

My conclusion is, the addition of the 2018 and up dual mass flywheel is creating the 2k rattle condition. Replacing the flywheel with a new unit will not cure the noise. Only way this goes away is either 1, Ford releases / replaces current flywheels with an updated design or 2, owners put in a single mass flywheel and clutch, RAM clutches has a kit out already. I would hope Ford comes clean on the true root cause and provides a solution.

Apologies for the novel, wanted to share my thoughts and observations. Always remember these cars are awesome. Enjoy and send it!
This makes perfect sense to me. Its In line with the rattle being altered with pressure on the stick, it will rattle the same with engine coolent, head and engine oil at full operation temperature but once the drive train gets warm it settles down a lot. Noise is very open air sounding. Piston slap to me sounds more like a walnut in a cup being shaken. This sound is very metallic. Its early for me so please excuse the bad grammar.
 

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I guess the only question remains is who's going to be the first one with a 2k rattle to take the plunge and change his dual mass flywheel to a single mass and see if it goes away? :fingerscrossed:
 

Qcman17

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I wonder what the rattle is in the auto also... but I like this explanation, I am sure their is something related in the automatic that is causing the noise also. not only did they go dual clutch for us but the new 10 speed is bound to have some weird stuff also
Ours is not a dual clutch auto. One thing I tried with my car was revving the engine in park in the driveway & I could not get it to make the rattle that it makes while driving at the same RPM. Perhaps that has something to do with things not as fully "connected" or perhaps it needs some actual load to make it come to life. I will say it concerned me greatly at first but I said f*ck it I have a warranty so roll on. While I think its good we discuss what it could be I truly don't believe people should be fretting to the point where they are ditching their cars over it. I've certainly read of some instances here where folks sold the car just to be safe which is ludicrous to me.
 

Wheat392

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Ours is not a dual clutch auto. One thing I tried with my car was revving the engine in park in the driveway & I could not get it to make the rattle that it makes while driving at the same RPM. Perhaps that has something to do with things not as fully "connected" or perhaps it needs some actual load to make it come to life. I will say it concerned me greatly at first but I said f*ck it I have a warranty so roll on. While I think its good we discuss what it could be I truly don't believe people should be fretting to the point where they are ditching their cars over it. I've certainly read of some instances here where folks sold the car just to be safe which is ludicrous to me.
Really appreciate the response. Your comment about conditions for reproducing the rattle is extremely relevant to this discussion.

Those who have manuals can recreate this in the driveway, driving, in gear and in neutral.

While we cannot say one 10 speed car represents the entire population, it’s very interesting that it can’t be recreated in park. This leads me to believe we have 2 different “rattle” noises occurring at the same RPM.


Have you ever been able to capture your rattle on your phone?

I agree on people ditching the cars, I want to own a mustang, otherwise I would have bought something else..
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