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Driveshaft advice.

Old5.Oguy

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I have a 2019 Mustang GT, Roush SC, Roush Exhaust, some suspension work to help it hook, drag radials. (Oil pump gears and halfshafts upgraded as well) With the conservative Roush Tune I’m putting 583 to the Rear wheel. I just threw in the DSS aluminum driveshaft, nice easy install, no glitches. Took it out drove it around the first day, nice and smooth. Today while cruising on the highway I hit 65 and the vibrations started, by the time I was at 85 the rear view mirror was a blur. No doubt the driveshaft is not balanced correctly. My question is what HP is the old driveshaft good to. Keep in mind I will probably track the car 1 or 2 times a year and my street driving is not too crazy. I’ve probably answered my own question but as my name indicates, I’m an old 5.0 guy and quite frankly not too familiar with the newer cars stock limitations, especially the driveline. Thanks in advance
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NastyPumpkin

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I have a 2019 Mustang GT, Roush SC, Roush Exhaust, some suspension work to help it hook, drag radials. (Oil pump gears and halfshafts upgraded as well) With the conservative Roush Tune I’m putting 583 to the Rear wheel. I just threw in the DSS aluminum driveshaft, nice easy install, no glitches. Took it out drove it around the first day, nice and smooth. Today while cruising on the highway I hit 65 and the vibrations started, by the time I was at 85 the rear view mirror was a blur. No doubt the driveshaft is not balanced correctly. My question is what HP is the old driveshaft good to. Keep in mind I will probably track the car 1 or 2 times a year and my street driving is not too crazy. I’ve probably answered my own question but as my name indicates, I’m an old 5.0 guy and quite frankly not too familiar with the newer cars stock limitations, especially the driveline. Thanks in advance
Your stock driveshaft is probably good where you are at now. The pinion flange is what, is out of balance. Thats why the stock driveshaft is a two piece. You will see two yellow dots, one on the pinion flange and the other on the trans flange (high spots). You can take the driveshaft pinion bolts out and rotate the flange 180*. So, the high spots off set each other with a balanced drive shaft. The vibrations should be gone.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old5.Oguy

Old5.Oguy

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Thanks for the advice. If I was to put the original driveshaft back in does the driveshaft have a yellow dot on it as well? And I’m assuming I would match them back up? Thanks
 
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Old5.Oguy

Old5.Oguy

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Threw the stock driveshaft in and it’s smooth as glass once again.
 

Vegas5OH

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Im running the stock driveshaft at 850 wheel on drag radials, and have been over 800 wheel for a year. My friend is making 1k wheel, swapped out the stock to a DSS carbon driveshaft which was also a vibrating junk shaft... Broke it in less than 2 days and it was an itchy carbon mess. After that we swapped the stocker back in and its been fine ever since. He even did a half mile event with the stock shaft trapped 181. Stock driveshaft is king lol.
 

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bluebeastsrt

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Stock drive shaft here also. Get a safety loop if having the stocker makes you nervous.
 

NastyPumpkin

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I have my QA1 carbon shaft for over 15k and no vibration at all even at 160mph.

DSS is pure garbage.
I also have the QA1 carbon driveshaft, no issues. Top quality driveshaft!
 

TX-Ripper

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Qa1 shaft shows up today...

gforce vibrated the whole car after 45mph, you couldn’t use any of the cars mirrors.
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