Mustang GT reliability

[kent0464]

All cars, new or used, have their issues and problems. If I needed a car just for transportation to work etc I’d probably get a KIA or Hyundai, as they have the longest warranties or perhaps a Honda.

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[Bullitt0819]

Any of you manual owners have a light clunk noise in 4-6 gears when getting on or off the accelerator lightly?

Nothing in my '19 Bullitt at about 8K miles.

 

[Rapid Red]

the problems with 2018's were overblown i stage 2 whipple'd mine and it runs like a dream. Never had a single issue, 25k miles on it.

25K now there is a number that speaks to reliability. I am hopping that would double or triple as a norm. 7 -12 k is just break-in.

Think I would be an unhappy owner of the GT if I cannot get 50 -75k on the clock without problems. Have a truck that went 125 with oil, tires and brakes as the only maintenance. Still have it 140 over all solid.

Pep

 

[FDHog]

Can't talk about reliability. (19 GT PP1) I only have 700 miles, but I can tell you my main concern was the plasma cylinders. I had a 2018 F150 5.0L and it used oil. 1qt in 3K miles. Got rid of it after 10 months.
Took a chance on this 2019 5.0, and so far not a drop.
The manual trans has been great except for occasional hard shift getting into reverse, Happy so far.

 

[randotheking]

The mustang seems to be the only cars that dont depreciate lol when i was shopping for mine they were selling used cars for more than new and ovvering me 5% APR vs ford credit who gave me 1.9%.

New is definitely the way to go if ur financing. You can also max out the extended warranty like i did. It's 3k but it pushes ur powertrain out to 100k and protects your wheels and tires.

That's some serious piece of mind...

Considering a new coyote is like 10k. And because everyone wants these engines its hard yo find a used long block under 5k.

So 3k up front ain't that bad and u automatically get the free loaner car when you max the warranty.

I got free oil changes to 60k miles as well.

It broke down to an extra 50.00 or so per month. So one less dinner date with the Mrs. Per month...

This is some terrible advice. Mustangs depreciate, a lot, just as much as every other car. The best way to get a deal on a new car is to buy a 1 year old "used" one.
Extended warranties are a scam, especially on a car like a Mustang which has a vast aftermarket space with higher quality parts that are sometimes cheaper than OEM.
Lastly, don't buy anything based on what you can afford on a monthly basis.

 

[13razorbackfan]

With that out the way...

From a purely mechanical point of view the S197 gen 1 coyote is the most bulletproof car you can buy. The biggest issue is the AC compressors on those cars arent great. The S550s seem to have solved that issue. The s197 has the best sound system, and has a better more durable front suspension design.

The Gen 2 especially IMHO 2016 and 17 is the best of Gen 2. The 2015 is a great car but ford refined it a bit and added sync 3 in 16 which is AMAZING. It's been bulletproof on my car at 60k miles. No issues. Still on version 3.1

The Gen 2 motors have a closed deck and it was before ford went to plasma arc sleeves, it also has a traditional metal oil pan and windage tray... The shift forks are also stronger. All that adds up to a car that can tolerate ALOT of abuse especially boosted...

Gen 3 is pretty much a racecar trying to be a street car. Ford really focused on trying to improve the smoothness of the cars. Youll find many of the quirks of the gen 2 fixed on These cars. Plus These cars will make a crap load of power with very little mods and will run impressive times. I recommend NEVER running anything but 93 octane or higher in a Gen 2 or Gen 3. It's not worth it in the long run, and will give you the best reliability.

I dont know what ford is thinking but they cant cheat thermodynamics... And 12:1 and 87 octane is asking for trouble... Just my opinion others run it and seem to be fine...

Quick question about the running of 93 comment. I have searched the area for all the top tier gas stations and the highest they offer is 91. Would that suffice? There is one station I found that has 93 non ethanol but it is almost double just plain old 87 and the location of this station leads me to believe they likely sell very little of it. They have many pumps I would guess around 8 or so and only 2 have this fuel. Also this is not a top tier station. What would be your advice?

 

[Bikeman315]

Little to no difference in daily driving between 91 & 93. Top tier is important because the higher level of detergents keep you engine cleaner.

 

[13razorbackfan]

That sucks, but anyone can get a lemon and the more you buy the better your chances. The 19's seem pretty solid right now. That's why I recommended a 19' leftover.

I agree I traded in my 13 day old 18 for a 19 just a few days ago and while new 19's with the right color and options you desire are harder to find, depending on your area, Ford and Ford Motor Credit are really working with people with financing at 0 for 72 months which beats the heck out the rebates offered. When my dealer ran all my info through Fords credit advisor they pushed through zero down zero percent for 72 months on a $47k car including the payoff of $28k on my 2018 model with a $2500 trade difference. I lost $2500 on the deal but let me tell you I am SO much happier with the look and feel of the 19 and the options I chose. Went from a convert to a fastback, black to ruby red, 401a option package which I didn't have, the upgraded 12" display, 3.55 gears, sound system, safety package and from the 18" to 20" wheels. I just feel this new car and loss I took will make me much happier 5 or 10 years down the road when I look back. The car I have now many many years down the road should still be a great looking very powerful car that is fairly high optioned and has a desirable paint job and factory wheels that rival any 3rd party wheels on the market at least the ones I've see. Babying this car doing everything the right way. Putting as few miles as possible while at same time still having fun. When I hit 1000 miles and do my first oil change I'm going to slowly but steadily put more load on her.

All to say I'm happy I spent the extra money. If you can swing a 19 then now is the time because Ford credit will give you zero percent if you have good credit. I have 3 open auto loans and still got the terms and rates I previously mentioned.

 

[13razorbackfan]

Agreed, 17 or 19+. What's your budget? Dealers are desperate to move cars.

Yep...get the 19 because you can more easily get the 0 percent rate which is basically free money. I do the same with all my John Deere commerical equipment. I get zero percent which is free money well to say it's free for me to borrow

 

[3star2nr]

Quick question about the running of 93 comment. I have searched the area for all the top tier gas stations and the highest they offer is 91. Would that suffice? There is one station I found that has 93 non ethanol but it is almost double just plain old 87 and the location of this station leads me to believe they likely sell very little of it. They have many pumps I would guess around 8 or so and only 2 have this fuel. Also this is not a top tier station. What would be your advice?

Theoretically the way how fords getting away with 12:1 is that the engine has direct injection so they're dumping fuel in to try to overcome detonation. For the most part the system works but as the car ages these injectors will need to be decarbed and care needs to be taken to ensure the system is operating normally. 90% of the system is bulletproof but it's just the nature of all DI engines to have carb build up on the injectors from incomplete combustion.

Once those get gunked now you're back to a 12:1 motor running lean on crappy 87 fuel.... Disaster.

I recommend running the best fuel you can find. Typically shell, routinely adding a fuel detergent to the cars diet like royal purple max cleaner, etc There are some products from amsoil as well. Just be careful because some of these cleaners will foul an o2 sensor if you go overboard with them. And these O2s are very expensive...

Id say once every oil change should be plenty.

And just plan that at 60k-100k miles it's probably a good idea to just replace the di injectors as preventative maintenance.

That maybe a great time to install a blower since you'll have the intake off anyway.

(Quick side note) if youre planning on boosting id buy a long block first and keep it in the garage before buying the blower.

Its just the nature of tuning once you cross a certain threshold every motor becomes delicate and no matter how good you are you cant plan for everything. Having redundant parts just helps u stay running.

Its the side of tunning no one talks about. It doesn't matter if its a coyote or 2JZ everyone blows up once you're making big boy power. .

 

[3star2nr]

Also with the fuel cleaner u may notice smoking if you are catless that's ok... Some contain mineral spirits snd those produce blue smoke when burnt.

It's also a good habit to let the car have some Revs. drive it like a man sometimes. Take it up to red line going onto the interstate.

Youd be surprised how many people keep their revs low thinking this is saving the motor, its actually killing it. Coyotes need to howl, let it rev. It will run better in the long run and have less carb build up

 

[Bullitt0819]

Theoretically the way how fords getting away with 12:1 is that the engine has direct injection so they're dumping fuel in to try to overcome detonation. For the most part the system works but as the car ages these injectors will need to be decarbed and care needs to be taken to ensure the system is operating normally. 90% of the system is bulletproof but it's just the nature of all DI engines to have carb build up on the injectors from incomplete combustion.

Once those get gunked now you're back to a 12:1 motor running lean on crappy 87 fuel.... Disaster.

I recommend running the best fuel you can find. Typically shell, routinely adding a fuel detergent to the cars diet like royal purple max cleaner, etc There are some products from amsoil as well. Just be careful because some of these cleaners will foul an o2 sensor if you go overboard with them. And these O2s are very expensive...

Id say once every oil change should be plenty.

And just plan that at 60k-100k miles it's probably a good idea to just replace the di injectors as preventative maintenance.

That maybe a great time to install a blower since you'll have the intake off anyway.

(Quick side note) if youre planning on boosting id buy a long block first and keep it in the garage before buying the blower.

Its just the nature of tuning once you cross a certain threshold every motor becomes delicate and no matter how good you are you cant plan for everything. Having redundant parts just helps u stay running.

Its the side of tunning no one talks about. It doesn't matter if its a coyote or 2JZ everyone blows up once you're making big boy power. .

FWIW, 'my' engine builder--a locally renowned builder of race and classic engines--says categorically that 'the engines that come to me in the best shape all used Chevron gas exclusively' (and he uses only it). I usually fill up at Costco when I'm in the hood--it's Top Tier BTW--but I've started throwing a tank of Chevron Premium in it every third or fourth fill-up. I haven't seen it in my '19 Bullitt's owners manual, but the manual for my '08 said emphatically not to add anything to the fuel or oil (of course, they recommended Ford's oil, which I used exclusively; engine had 135K miles and was running perfectly when I traded it in). I think any Top Tier fuel is OK, but the Chevron's more convenient than Costco (but usually $0.50 or more per gallon).

I installed a catch can in the PCV line; I get about a teaspoon of oil every 1K miles.

 

[Bladerunner70]

The best way to get a deal on a new car is to buy a 1 year old "used" one.

I will never understand why people buy new cars fresh off the lot? It's the second-worst financial decision a MAN can make..., right behind getting married!

 

[13razorbackfan]

FWIW, 'my' engine builder--a locally renowned builder of race and classic engines--says categorically that 'the engines that come to me in the best shape all used Chevron gas exclusively' (and he uses only it). I usually fill up at Costco when I'm in the hood--it's Top Tier BTW--but I've started throwing a tank of Chevron Premium in it every third or fourth fill-up. I haven't seen it in my '19 Bullitt's owners manual, but the manual for my '08 said emphatically not to add anything to the fuel or oil (of course, they recommended Ford's oil, which I used exclusively; engine had 135K miles and was running perfectly when I traded it in). I think any Top Tier fuel is OK, but the Chevron's more convenient than Costco (but usually $0.50 or more per gallon).

I installed a catch can in the PCV line; I get about a teaspoon of oil every 1K miles.

I only can find 93 at Shell with the top tier fuel. There is a Phillips 66 down the road but they don't see as much traffic and not sure they have 93.

 

[13razorbackfan]

Theoretically the way how fords getting away with 12:1 is that the engine has direct injection so they're dumping fuel in to try to overcome detonation. For the most part the system works but as the car ages these injectors will need to be decarbed and care needs to be taken to ensure the system is operating normally. 90% of the system is bulletproof but it's just the nature of all DI engines to have carb build up on the injectors from incomplete combustion.

Once those get gunked now you're back to a 12:1 motor running lean on crappy 87 fuel.... Disaster.

I recommend running the best fuel you can find. Typically shell, routinely adding a fuel detergent to the cars diet like royal purple max cleaner, etc There are some products from amsoil as well. Just be careful because some of these cleaners will foul an o2 sensor if you go overboard with them. And these O2s are very expensive...

Id say once every oil change should be plenty.

And just plan that at 60k-100k miles it's probably a good idea to just replace the di injectors as preventative maintenance.

That maybe a great time to install a blower since you'll have the intake off anyway.

(Quick side note) if youre planning on boosting id buy a long block first and keep it in the garage before buying the blower.

Its just the nature of tuning once you cross a certain threshold every motor becomes delicate and no matter how good you are you cant plan for everything. Having redundant parts just helps u stay running.

Its the side of tunning no one talks about. It doesn't matter if its a coyote or 2JZ everyone blows up once you're making big boy power. .

Thanks for the good info. I don't plan on adding any after stuff to this car. So I'm going to start gassing up at Shell with the 93. Talked to a cashier via phone late last night and he told me anything over 87 in Arkansas will be ethanol free however I can't confirm that when looking online instead what I found is that in Arkansas it depends on the fuel being ordered from station to station but again not sure if that's true or not. I have 2 tuned 6.7 powerstroke F250's but just run the tow tunes although I could switch it on the fly but I don't.

Also my car currently on has 365 miles on it so when I said I was going to baby it I was only going to do so until I get to 1000 miles and do my first oil change with Amsoil or another high quality pure synthetic then I'm going to go wot here and there and drive the motor the way it's supposed to be driven although not all the time.

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