Clutch Pedal Stuck Down

[Niz55]

This is the line. Zip tie is not going to do much as it is a hard plastic. I used very small amount of rtv on top of the line and the housing nipple.

First push it in all the way and than apply the rtv.

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[Niz55]

Afterwards bleed the clutch line.

Use a vacuum pump with proper bleeding cap (motive 1109) and vacuum the resivore to -15 and hold it for 1 min. Jump in the car after and pump the clutch pedal 20 times. Repeat steps above 3 times.

 

[tom_sprecher]

If your fluid level remains full, and the pedal goes to the floor, you do not have any of the following.

Leaking slave cylinder
Leaking master cylinder
Clutch master supply line loose, or off
Slave pressure line loose

All of the above would cause fluid loss, and a noticeable amount every time you pressed the clutch pedal.

The clutch spring, no matter who made it, or if it is even there, would not cause the pedal to fall to the floor. It doesn't work that way.

You most likely have a faulty master cylinder like I had replaced under warranty. The seals on the piston are not working properly, allowing fluid to bypass, and not develop pressure.

YMMV

 

[johnny1]

This is the line. Zip tie is not going to do much as it is a hard plastic. I used very small amount of rtv on top of the line and the housing nipple.

First push it in all the way and than apply the rtv.

When I had my 16 and 17 both the line was close to coming off. I pushed it all the way on and put a small zip tie around it where it is connected and then took a larger zip tie and put around about the middle off the hose and the nearest place I could loop around something and pulled it just enough to keep that hose more straight instead of angled. Worked great and I'm sure who ever has both those cars doesn't even see its done.

 

[Droopy1592]

Literally happened to me last week after the new motor was installed. A bleeding brought it back to normal.

 

[Shobaki350]

Afterwards bleed the clutch line.

Use a vacuum pump with proper bleeding cap (motive 1109) and vacuum the resivore to -15 and hold it for 1 min. Jump in the car after and pump the clutch pedal 20 times. Repeat steps above 3 times.

I found the line to be a little loose. It seems like the area was very dry and no fluid leaked. Do I still have to bleed it?

 

[CrashOverride]

If your fluid level remains full, and the pedal goes to the floor, you do not have any of the following.

Leaking slave cylinder
Leaking master cylinder
Clutch master supply line loose, or off
Slave pressure line loose

All of the above would cause fluid loss, and a noticeable amount every time you pressed the clutch pedal.

The clutch spring, no matter who made it, or if it is even there, would not cause the pedal to fall to the floor. It doesn't work that way.

You most likely have a faulty master cylinder like I had replaced under warranty. The seals on the piston are not working properly, allowing fluid to bypass, and not develop pressure.

YMMV

I agree with one exception, the slave cylinder could have an internal leak (think the piston seal is allowing fluid to bypass it). Same thing as the clutch master cylinder. They can both leak internally and the fluid doesn't "go away" it just slips by the piston/diaphragms without applying pressure where it is wanted. Waiting the time between using the clutch when "hot" and after you let it cool down, could explain the ever-so-slightly-different rate of expansion/contraction of the slave/master and the pistons inside them. Heck the fluid could also cool slightly and become more viscous making less blow by.

Just a thought.

I had my slave go bad with an internal leak in my 89 Camaro way back when I was a poor schmuck. I drove to the trans shop by killing the starter at every light, and then re-starting it in gear. I can't believe the starter had enough oomph to do it, and I'm shocked I didn't burn it out, but you do what you gotta do when you're broke and 500 miles from home. Previous owner before me put a new clutch on it before he sold it to me, but got cheap and re-used the slave. I keep that in mind every time I think about skipping replacing it.

 

[03reptile]

After looking at the photo provided by Niz55, I found the line was not fully pushed onto the nipple on my 2019. I gave it a good push and it moved forward and snapped into place. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Lawguy85]

This is the line. Zip tie is not going to do much as it is a hard plastic. I used very small amount of rtv on top of the line and the housing nipple.

First push it in all the way and than apply the rtv.

Thanks for this. Happened to me tonight, clutch pedal stuck to floor, sloppy feel as I limped home. Searched M6G, checked, sure enough this was almost off on my ‘19. Pushed back on, will try your technique for a solution.

 

[websterzx10r]

Thanks for this. Happened to me tonight, clutch pedal stuck to floor, sloppy feel as I limped home. Searched M6G, checked, sure enough this was almost off on my ‘19. Pushed back on, will try your technique for a solution.

I know this is an old thread sorry to revive it. But as of this week I had this happen to me and upon stumbling on this thread my brake fluid reservoir hose was like the picture I pushed it back on did the zip tie help it stay on? I am nervous to go far away from home. will run her out to grab some gas some time today. Thank You Thank You Thank You

 

[THX 138]

I know this is an old thread sorry to revive it. But as of this week I had this happen to me and upon stumbling on this thread my brake fluid reservoir hose was like the picture I pushed it back on did the zip tie help it stay on? I am nervous to go far away from home. will run her out to grab some gas some time today. Thank You Thank You Thank You

I use a stainless steel hose clamp rather than a zip tie. That said, when my car experienced the "clutch pedal not returning" issue, it was the slave cylinder itself, not this line. My incident happened on track, while downshifting for a hairpin turn. I was able to limp the car back to the paddock, then home and to the dealership, but by the time I got to the dealership, my "low brake fluid" light was on and there was a puddle under the car.

The dealership replaced the slave cylinder, and it's been fine ever since. I still haven't heard any explanations as to why they fail in the first place though, which seems a little scary to me. I've only ever used Ate Typ200 high-temp brake fluid since my first track day, so I don't think it's an issue with the brake fluid I'm using.

I would take your car in to be checked out before going on anything remotely resembling a long trip (or even a short trip, frankly). Having to pull up the clutch pedal with your left foot at every stop light is not a good experience.

 

[Muligan]

The Mule's clutch pedal stayed on the floor and this is what the throwout bearing looked like.

No leaks...... just kabloey!!!!!

 

[NightmareMoon]

My slave cylinder expired before the clutch wore out as well. (65k miles?). No leaks, just not returning the pedal constently and although I could lift it with my toe usually, it was getting worse, so replaced it and the clutch before they left me stranded.

The pictured feed from the resevoir isn’t pressurized so as long as its still hanging on and not leaking or off, its doing just fine.

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