Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[Stymee]

If I were just going to the strip in early spring or late fall when temps are lower, I wouldn't be too concerned about the Roush. However, I like to run all summer. In spite of the stereotypes about how cold Minnesota can be, it gets HOT and HUMID here in June, July and August. That is when our tracks run their "street legal drags" on Wednesday nights and I like to participate in those. That is why cooling is very critical to me.

Same for PA/NJ
I dont wanna run 11.30-11.40 with a boosted car in July but then again I only wanna go 10.70/10.80 anyway

I could do it NA, but I don’t wanna run headers or no cats and I dont wanna pull the interior

I’m 55 now, not interested in that kind of car anymore so it’s boost or go home

 

[Bloney]

With all the racing I've done and engines I've built. From NA to Nitrous to Centri To PD blowers, they all ran a tick slower in the summer heat. Obviously heat soak with the PD blower is a bigger challenge but as Toydoctor stated, if you can switch the factory fans and intercooler pump on, while between hits, that would really combat heat soak. But in the heat of summer, in oxygen depleted air, your not gonna break records. Gotta expect to loose a few tenths to mother nature. If you wanna make those hero passes all the time, gotta cool the air going in. No kit offers the best of all worlds. Pick the one that suits your needs best and live with it. You won't find an intro kit, with canned tune, that'll run mid to high 10's in mine shaft air that won't run low 11's in the sweltering summer heat. Unless you add systems to cool the air.

 

[Stymee]

With all the racing I've done and engines I've built. From NA to Nitrous to Centri To PD blowers, they all ran a tick slower in the summer heat. Obviously heat soak with the PD blower is a bigger challenge but as Toydoctor stated, if you can switch the factory fans and intercooler pump on, while between hits, that would really combat heat soak. But in the heat of summer, in oxygen depleted air, your not gonna break records. Gotta expect to loose a few tenths to mother nature. If you wanna make those hero passes all the time, gotta cool the air going in. No kit offers the best of all worlds. Pick the one that suits your needs best and live with it. You won't find an intro kit, with canned tune, that'll run mid to high 10's in mine shaft air that won't run low 11's in the sweltering summer heat. Unless you add systems to cool the air.

Absolutely, DA and track prep play a huge role, more so for NA applications. I agree 100% that canned tunes other than Whipples won’t run 10’s in a realistic DA but u still need to deal with drivability issues.

But it would be nice if Roush addresses the heat soak with the P2, compared to a Whipple and EB the P1 has heat soak issues (2018+)

Your post is on point

 

[sy1462]

Hlfbkd420 and I were talking about an easy way to turn on the factory fans and the IC water pump with out the engine running.

My former life for the past 20+ years was GM turbo vehicles... at one point running a water to air system and this is what I did in the pits... pour ice in the IC reservoir (or put a bag of ice on top of the reservoir if you don't want to suck out water to add more water) and manually switch on the fans/pump with the engine off. Cools it down pretty fast. I used a deep cycle battery jumpered with my main battery to keep from killing it between runs. Next challenge is keeping it cool while you wait in the staging lanes, keeping engine off as much as possible anc continue to run the IC pump and fans. As some have said, spraying meth helps too and reduces chances for detonation. Only other thing I did with a water/air system was adding a spray bar on the heat exchanger spraying nitrous off a hobbs switch to work as a super-cooler, but saw little if any benefit from it and the cost of the nitrous was high.

 

[Stage_3]

Do u know how to make a killer chiller, I can wrench but I haven't a clue nor do I wanna try. A GOOD kit is $1500+ (Australian Company) plus our AC compressor isn’t designed for it anyway, that’s why he is having cooling issues in the cabin
A good meth kit is $500, plus an ice tank would be another $250+
Not interested doing all this to make a Roush Kit run tens. I applaud Toy Doctor for designing extra mods to attain his goal but there is no way I’d do that on top of dropping $7000
More and more I’m leaning toward EB (10lbs) tuned by Lund on 93/Additive

Do you know how to make a killer chiller??? I don't.
And I wouldn't want to try as well. I can wrench, but I would need guidance on something like that.
As I stated earlier,............I wouldn't want to add all that stuff as well. I'm with you man.

 

[Stage_3]

If I was an auto with my mods, I should be in the low 10s. A factory untouched roush kit on an A10 should be in the high 10s. The tune will allow it, I’ve proved that. Just need to remove the heat!

I would think a VMP triple pass or oversized Whipple heat exchanger would do the trick, no?
No meth, just the larger/better heat exchanger on an A10 Roushcharged car?

 

[hlfbkd420]

I would think a VMP triple pass or oversized Whipple heat exchanger would do the trick, no?
No meth, just the larger/better heat exchanger on an A10 Roushcharged car?

i think you need to start over from the beginning in this thread

you can make the heat exchanger as big as you want but it’s not overcoming the intercooler

 

[Stymee]

i think you need to start over from the beginning in this thread

you can make the heat exchanger as big as you want but it’s not overcoming the intercooler

100% Correct

 

[Jmtoast]

i think you need to start over from the beginning in this thread

you can make the heat exchanger as big as you want but it’s not overcoming the intercooler

What it takes to run 10’s in a 18+ with Roush tune.. besides drag setup and irs suspension upgrades.

1. Ice tank
2. Or 40 degrees in negative da
3. Either the above with auto and drag mode makes it easier

other than that it isn’t happening. On the street with highway pulls and constant good air flow in sub 80 degree temps you won’t notice a difference most likely.

btw I’m seeing a lot of videos online right now with speed shops running “best times ever” with guys Standing on the side wearing winter coats, lol

 

[brucelinc]

Roush has to be aware of the flaw. Highly unlikely that phase 2 will flip the blower and IC and make the IC larger. It will be interesting to see what changes they do make to address the heat issue.....if anything.

 

[Jmtoast]

Roush has to be aware of the flaw. Highly unlikely that phase 2 will flip the blower and IC and make the IC larger. It will be interesting to see what changes they do make to address the heat issue.....if anything.

Not likely. Most of their improvements were related to the track. And phase 3 is a marketing ploy to justify $120k. It’s a phase 2 in reality I believe

 

[brucelinc]

Not likely. Most of their improvements were related to the track. And phase 3 is a marketing ploy to justify $120k. It’s a phase 2 in reality I believe

Agree, but we don't know exactly what the changes are with the Phase 3. I suppose it is possible that it is just tuning and maybe a larger or more efficient HE.

It seems to me that Phase 1 began closing the throttle long before the IAT2 temps reached a real danger point. Maybe phase 2 allows a bit more heat before killing the power? I strongly suspect competitors are being more aggressive in that regard.

 

[Stymee]

Well theres a guy at Atco right now with a 300a A10 3.55’s (Drag Radial)

DA (-200)

Stage 1 whipple 9lbs
Stock HE
PBD tuned on 93 (7800 shift)
H-Pipe

No other mods
First pass: 10.35@136

That’s insane and it won’t break

 

[Bloney]

The change they'll likely add is a more aggressive tune. The current phase 1 tune is a 91 octane tune With alote of nannies to keep it very safe. I know guys have said they splash boostane or octanium for safety. The reason Roush says not to is that the tune is not going to allow the vehicle to get to the point of detonation so its not needed. The new tune will likely be a 93 octane tune thats a bit more aggressive with timing. I suspect the compression of the 18+ had these companies a bit timid with the tunes.

 

[brucelinc]

Well theres a guy at Atco right now with a 300a A10 3.55’s (Drag Radial)

DA (-200)

Stage 1 whipple 9lbs
Stock HE
PBD tuned on 93 (7800 shift)
H-Pipe

No other mods
First pass: 10.35@136

That’s insane and it won’t break

There is no doubt that a Whipple with a custom tune is fast. I wouldn't rev mine to 7800 on the shifts, though. I am more comfortable with stock shift points. By the way, I would give an unneeded body part to run in that DA!