Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit vs. BMR CB010 + CB762 + SCB766

[cib24]

I am sure both options do the job well in their own ways. However, for my use and if we take cost out of the equation which would suit me better?

I estimate that my car will be 70% public road driving, 20% track days on circuits and 10% drag racing at Santa Pod. Due to the high amount of road use I am not looking to increase NVH, and am for now steering myself away from the CB005 (also it's apparently a real pain to install) and steering clear of the LCA bearings.

In that context, is there a difference in what either kit offers if the user like me cares more about cornering than going straight?

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[SteedaTech]

The Steeda Stop the hop Starter kit is used in both our Champioship Winning Road race car #20 and our Record holding Silver Bullitt Drag race car! No noticeable NVH!

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Stop-The-Hop-Starter-Kit-555-4455

 

[tj@steeda]

With easy install & and over 43 5-star reviews ... you can't go wrong:



Let us know if we can help assist.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Biggsy]

I am sure both options do the job well in their own ways. However, for my use and if we take cost out of the equation which would suit me better?

I estimate that my car will be 70% public road driving, 20% track days on circuits and 10% drag racing at Santa Pod. Due to the high amount of road use I am not looking to increase NVH, and am for now steering myself away from the CB005 (also it's apparently a real pain to install) and steering clear of the LCA bearings.

In that context, is there a difference in what either kit offers if the user like me cares more about cornering than going straight?

Just curious, what about the CB005 install makes it difficult? The only thing I can think about is people messing up the alignment of their subframe but if you get the dowels then it'll take care of that. Also I think people usually look at compatibility of parts in this case and whether it can fit with existing or future parts.

Not wanting to do LCA bearings I understand but as far as everything else I would think the improvement in performance would be worth either install. I have the BMR(CB005 + CB762) set up with the Steeda dowels and no increase in NVH here

 

[cib24]

Just curious, what about the CB005 install makes it difficult? The only thing I can think about is people messing up the alignment of their subframe but if you get the dowels then it'll take care of that. Also I think people usually look at compatibility of parts in this case and whether it can fit with existing or future parts.

Not wanting to do LCA bearings I understand but as far as everything else I would think the improvement in performance would be worth either install. I have the BMR(CB005 + CB762) set up with the Steeda dowels and no increase in NVH here

Thanks for the reply. I read through quite a few threads on here about the CB005 and it seems like a lot of people have some trouble with the install and require a prybar and a hammer in some cases! Not the end of the world but when laying on my back in my garage is prefer to be able to just bolt thing up.

I also read in one of those threads from BMR that the CB010 is more than enough with the CB762, and that the added pieces in the CB005 aren't going to make much more difference, so why spend the extra cash and go through the headache of getting the holes and threads all line up?

 

[BmacIL]

Or just get the CB005 and be done...

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

They both make great parts. You can't go wrong with either. I've used parts from both companies on both the S550s I've had.

 

[ugstang17]

CB005 with vert links additionally on my car has zero hop. No NVH. BMR FTW!

 

[moffetts]

CB005 is not difficult to install, you just need to take your time.

 

[tj@steeda]

Very easy install ... with proven results - designed, engineered, tested & backed by Steeda, a winning formula.

 

[Bluemustang]

Thanks for the reply. I read through quite a few threads on here about the CB005 and it seems like a lot of people have some trouble with the install and require a prybar and a hammer in some cases! Not the end of the world but when laying on my back in my garage is prefer to be able to just bolt thing up.

I also read in one of those threads from BMR that the CB010 is more than enough with the CB762, and that the added pieces in the CB005 aren't going to make much more difference, so why spend the extra cash and go through the headache of getting the holes and threads all line up?

Right, the CB005 with the CB762 won't do much over having the CB010 instead. But I also don't think the CB762 is really necessary if you simply do the CB005. The CB005 does a lot on it's own and will remove a large majority of wheel hop for most people imo. But the thing is too is tires play a large role. Although I should add that Kelly from BMR has said that he believes the CB762 is the single best overall solution if considered by itself, with considerably less NVH than the ideal solution, which is - solid subframe bushings. That is BIG time NVH.

Honestly I'd just as well do the LCA bearings and CB005. Get a lot more benefit that way. Plus, consider that the CB005 will remove at minimum 80%, in many cases 95% of subframe movement. This is what BMR will claim. Also the LCA bearings are not as bad for the ride as you might think and in some cases can improve the ride. It removes that disconnected feeling from the rear end and what you get is the actual input from the road/tires.

 

[cib24]

Right, the CB005 with the CB762 won't do much over having the CB010 instead. But I also don't think the CB762 is really necessary if you simply do the CB005. The CB005 does a lot on it's own and will remove a large majority of wheel hop for most people imo. But the thing is too is tires play a large role. Although I should add that Kelly from BMR has said that he believes the CB762 is the single best overall solution if considered by itself, with considerably less NVH than the ideal solution, which is - solid subframe bushings. That is BIG time NVH.

Honestly I'd just as well do the LCA bearings and CB005. Get a lot more benefit that way. Plus, consider that the CB005 will remove at minimum 80%, in many cases 95% of subframe movement. This is what BMR will claim. Also the LCA bearings are not as bad for the ride as you might think and in some cases can improve the ride. It removes that disconnected feeling from the rear end and what you get is the actual input from the road/tires.

Thank you for the reply. I was under the impression after a lot of reading that the CB010 + CB762 was a more ideal solution than the CB005. Also, keeping in mind that I want to reduce wheel hop but the car will used far more on road courses and to enjoy a connected spirited drive out in the countryside, rather than drag racing which I might only do once or twice per year.

I'll be honest that I'm not sure why I'm wary of the LCA bearings beyond cost to fit them and potential NVH, as my FD Mazda RX-7 has 6 pillowballs in the rear suspension to go along with an aluminium front and rear double wishbone setup (it's why they handle so damn well out of the box with so much feedback), and this does not bother me in the RX-7. Having said that, the RX-7 is far less refined, rides terrible by comparison on anything but relatively smooth roads, and is generally really loud and too talkative (i.e. it communicates everything to you) to be a really nice GT-style road car. Not that it was ever designed to be in the first place.

 

[cib24]

The CB762 and CB005 are indeed compatible. Without going to far into the minutia, the CB005 will typically remove 85-95% of the movement of the Subframe in relation to the chassis. When you add the CB762 to the mix, you are closer to achieving 100% reduction. The combination of the CB005 and the CB762 is essentially getting the benefit of a solid bushing mounted IRS Subframe, but with less NVH and of course no permanent modifying.

Those who have solid bushings, the CB762 is an excellent add-on to help strength the Subframe AND at that point, it will work as a TRUE total/overall chassis brace. For whatever reason, people seem to believe that bracing the IRS Subframe to the chassis without additional mods is beneficial to the chassis itself - but at that point you are simply trying to stabilize the IRS just as you are with "bushing mods". Solid mounting the IRS subframe THEN bracing it to the chassis is really the only way to truly benefit from bracing outside or IRS SUbframe movement reduction.

For the consumers who have the CB005 or other brand IRS bushing insert/lockout kits - the addition of the CB762 is basically for those looking for a little more rigidity once they up their game (power, performance)

@Det-Riot I am not 100% sure what you are asking specifically. But I hope this helps.

-CB005 Alone: Best first mod to the IRS
-CB005 and CB762 Combined: Best solution for those who want the MOST rigid mounted IRS without going solid bushings (low NVH)
-CB762 Alone: Best stand alone bracing system without adding any other modifications
-CB762 and Solid Bushings Combined: Best overall IRS Mounting and Best improvement in chassis rigidity. (NVH is high)

Depends on the goals for the car.

If drag race and/or straight-line oriented I would likely pick the CB005 to start.

If street/handling inspired, I would pick the CB762.

But also do not forget about our CB010. That kit at $99.95 in combination with this CB762 would be all the rigidity anyone could want or need on a streetcar

To be fair, I'm probably overthinking it and the CB005 and some alignment pins would be enough, and if I want to do more then it's a decision between standard or premium LCA bearings. It's not like I'm going to be trying to run 9 second 1/4 mile times with sub 1.5 60 foots.

 

[BmacIL]

To be fair, I'm probably overthinking it and the CB005 and some alignment pins would be enough, and if I want to do more then it's a decision between standard or premium LCA bearings. It's not like I'm going to be trying to run 9 second 1/4 mile times with sub 1.5 60 foots.

Good call.

FYI the LCA bearings have huge impact on handling, it's not just a wheel hop thing.

 

[BmacIL]

To be fair, I'm probably overthinking it and the CB005 and some alignment pins would be enough, and if I want to do more then it's a decision between standard or premium LCA bearings. It's not like I'm going to be trying to run 9 second 1/4 mile times with sub 1.5 60 foots.

Good call.

FYI the LCA bearings have huge impact on handling, it's not just a wheel hop thing.

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