Squeaking brake pedal after bleeding brakes?

[2015Etrac]

A few months back I bled my brakes after changing my front calipers, now whenever I press or release the brake pedal it makes a squeaking noise. I was pressing the pedal pretty hard while we were bleeding it. Could I have damaged something? The brakes feel fine, but the squeak can get annoying when I'm constantly pressing the brake pedal in traffic. Has anyone else run into this? I'd assume the pivot points just need some oil, but I don't like to take chances when it comes to brakes, especially after reading about the brake light switch problems.

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[BmacIL]

What pads? Do they have backing plates? Are the plates greased? Pins greased?

 

[2015Etrac]

What pads? Do they have backing plates? Are the plates greased? Pins greased?

The noise is actually coming from inside the cabin, it's somewhere in the pedal assembly. It almost sounds like it's in the plunger? section that goes through the firewall and into the engine bay that compresses when you press the brake. Sorry I don't know the technical term for that part, but it's covered by a rubber boot.

 

[BmacIL]

The noise is actually coming from inside the cabin, it's somewhere in the pedal assembly. It almost sounds like it's in the plunger? section that goes through the firewall and into the engine bay that compresses when you press the brake. Sorry I don't know the technical term for that part, but it's covered by a rubber boot.

Master cylinder plunger. Maybe try spraying it with some silicone grease?

 

[2015Etrac]

Master cylinder plunger. Maybe try spraying it with some silicone grease?

Thank's. I was wondering if I could do something like that. I'll give it a shot. It's annoying on a daily driver since it makes the noise whenever I press or release the pedal.

 

[Niz55]

you shouldn't press the brake pedal hard when you are bleeding the brakes. very light pressure just like when you are stopped at a red light. Your pedal connects directly to the booster and goes to the master. You might have damaged one of the seals in the master or the booster diaphragm.

 

[2015Etrac]

you shouldn't press the brake pedal hard when you are bleeding the brakes. very light pressure just like when you are stopped at a red light. Your pedal connects directly to the booster and goes to the master. You might have damaged one of the seals in the master or the booster diaphragm.

Wow, I hope not, that could get expensive. I know nothing of bleeding brakes, but a friend was helping me. I would press and release the pedal slowly during the process but when I would hold the pedal down while he opened the valve I would put a lot of pressure on the pedal thinking that would get the most air out. I'm guessing that's how I messed it up.

 

[Niz55]

Master is around $80 and booster is $120.

 

[2015Etrac]

Master is around $80 and booster is $120.

That's not too bad. How's the install time? I guess I could always upgrade to the PP automatic master cylinder and booster while I'm at it. Right now though it appears the noise is coming from inside of the car, under the rubber boot area that goes through the firewall. If it were the master cylinder or booster wouldn't the noise be coming from up higher in the engine bay?

 

[BmacIL]

I doubt you damaged it unless you're a competition leg press bro. Try lubrication and see if it changes anything.

 

[2015Etrac]

I doubt you damaged it unless you're a competition leg press bro. Try lubrication and see if it changes anything.

Haha, yeah I'm nowhere near that strong. I was going to hit it with some silicone spray today but it's raining, so I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I probably wouldn't have concerned myself with it but since I'm hitting the track for the first time I want to make sure everything is in good working order and safe.

 

[Niz55]

I also bought this tool to make sure the distance between the booster shaft and master is correct before I install everything. We do have an adjustment nut on the booster shaft so you can adjust the length of the shaft if it is off.

 

[2015Etrac]

You cannot reach the master cylinder plunger unless you completely remove it. The studs on the booster are too long and you need to disconnect the hydrolic line in order to even access the inner/back of the master where the booster shaft sits.

I have the same issue since I bled my brakes when I painted my calipers. I pressed way too hard on my pedal while bleeding. Afterwards I was getting a squeaking sound also from inside. Tried everything and nothing worked.

I bled the brakes probably 10 times and it did not fix the problem.

I am now in the process of replacing my booster and master. I checked my booster shaft and it looks bent. That is why I am buying everything new.

My parts came out to $205 shipped from levittown with free shipping coupon code.

Before you start tearing things apart try to fix the problem without replacing the components.

Not only you have to bleed the brakes many many times over you also have to bleed the ABS unit and you need a scammer in order to do that. When you get air in ABS unit is one nightmare of bleeding process.

Picture of my master taken out and booster is next. Just waiting on the parts to arrive.

Nice 350. I do have an extended warranty, but since I changed the calipers I'm thinking they might deny the claim. I might try to bring it in anyway and see what they say. If not, and all the simple fixes don't work, I guess $200 isn't bad and it will give me an excuse to update the booster and master cylinder to the PP version. I think they're only a few $$$ more than the stock one.

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