Opinion about Ford Performance Power pack level 3?

[Luke17]

Hey guys,
I've been thinking about installing Power Pack lvl 3 on my 2015 GT that I am using as a daily diver. What are your feelings about the quality, low rev power/torq, and gas mileage? I've heard that PP3 kills low end which isn't a preferable situation in daily driver which is the opposite of what some dyno graphs on the internet are showing. I'm also wondering about transmission safety during no lift gear changes.

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[1MEAN18]

Hey guys,
I've been thinking about installing Power Pack lvl 3 on my 2015 GT that I am using as a daily diver. What are your feelings about the quality, low rev power/torq, and gas mileage? I've heard that PP3 kills low end which isn't a preferable situation in daily driver which is the opposite of what some dyno graphs on the internet are showing. I'm also wondering about transmission safety during no lift gear changes.

You could do the tuning and the manifold for less than that package costs here in America...not really sure about Poland though. Are you in a Euro spec '15? Stick or A6? You know this package isn't really meant to give you more torque, just more peak and upper RPM horsepower. I'd think you could grab an '18 up mani and a tune for less than a grand instead of the almost 2 grand that package costs. You don't need the TB at all, the hp those gain on an n/a car is a rounding error for most dyno runs so a TB on an n/a car is a total waste if you are on a budget...now if you have more money than God, feel free to spend $500 of it on a larger TB, but don't expect anything you'll feel in the seat of your pants to happen (unless you crap yourself LOL). Hope that helps...

 

[Stephen@lethal]

I agree with Mike, an intake manifold and tune will do better, and cost less. The tune will also dial in a higher limiter for you as well. We ship internationally if thats a concern for you. Feel free to shoot me a message and I can price up some things for you.

 

[Luke17]

It's a US-spec GT Premium PP with 6S MT. I was thinking specifically about FPP3 because it will hold the value of the car better than some random aftermarket. It's a Roush RS2 with a handwritten signature of Jack Roush sr. on the dashboard so in Europe it's actually rather a rare thing. I would like to preserve it if you know what I mean. The price of any stang mod in Europe is usually 1.5 to 2 times the price of a mod in US. As I said, I mostly care about low-end performance and every-day usability because I rarely use the car's full potential (over 4.5k RPM). If you say that for instance, a Roush CAI with a good tune will do significant enough difference then maybe there is no point in overinvesting.

 

[1MeanZ]

I had my heart set on PP3, but after my research, I ended up going with PP2. My car is 95% street use as well, and if you research here and read all the articles you'll see that PP2 makes more power in usable areas on the street. I went with it and I'm happy I did.

As these guys have stated, I'm sure the aftermarket has a cheaper solution with just a CAI and a tune. I wanted to keep the balance of my warranty, and I'm new to Mustangs and don't know who all the tuners are, so I played it safe and went with Ford.

 

[EFI]

To replicate this exact package separately (PP3) is not going to be that much cheaper. The intake is $700, an aftermarket CAI is $350, a handheld is $350 and another $400 for a tune itself = $1800 and you don't get the same benefit of maintaining some sort of warranty.

You can do the 18 manifold + CAI/handheld/tune, but again you run the risk of warranty denial if something should happen and there's no guarantee that it will drive as well as stock or the PP3.

 

[Cobrakit]

For the street, the PP2 is better/more cost effective than PP3. Just look at dyno graphs. Biggest issues with Ford tunes is that they are not adjustable for other mods.

 

[tom_sprecher]

I went with the PP2 due to more usable torque and $600 shipped.

 

[Luke17]

What about the no-lift shift? Is it safe for the transmission? I don't have the warranty anymore so if it breaks, it's going to be quick an expensive adventure to get it fixed.

 

[EFI]

What about the no-lift shift? Is it safe for the transmission? I don't have the warranty anymore so if it breaks, it's going to be quick an expensive adventure to get it fixed.

The way they describe NLS is that it's purely there to prevent an over rev, not necessarily to cut power, during shifts. So it's decently hard on the transmission since power is never actually cut during shift as it should be. It works well, but I only use it sparingly when I absolutely need every last drop of performance.

 

[3star2nr]

Hey guys,
I've been thinking about installing Power Pack lvl 3 on my 2015 GT that I am using as a daily diver. What are your feelings about the quality, low rev power/torq, and gas mileage? I've heard that PP3 kills low end which isn't a preferable situation in daily driver which is the opposite of what some dyno graphs on the internet are showing. I'm also wondering about transmission safety during no lift gear changes.

My advice would be to take a few days or a month to analyse your driving and see where you would like more power. Then buy the mods to get you there.

For most people daily driving mid range power us what they want, because thats something you will feel everyday, in traffic, around turns etc. For low RPM the stock intake manigold is thge absolute best. So instead get a Mishimoto intake tube, a drop in filter and 1-3/4 headers and do not go over 2.5" on your catback and a 93 octane tune. This setup won't make as much power on the dyno but it will maximize the hell out of your mid, to low powerband and use your stock manifold in it's most optimum range.

If you are racing legally or otherwise or doing lots of spirited drives in sports + get the intake, 2018 or gt350 both are great. The ford performance is a good option but as others have said u can do a 2018 intake and a lund tune for like 1000 less... Especially if u go used.

Above 6500 rpm the 2018 and gt350 clobber the stock manifold as much as 30 -50whp that's huge...

If you're shifting at 7800 with the close gearing of the mt82 the car is going to haul ass. You Will need a shifter like the barton or mgw and upgrade the stock clutch to support that. I would go with the exedy and matching lightweight steel flywheel. Once you start reving high. The lower mass Will reduce vibration issues and will help with high rpm trans lockout. The exedy flywheel is also designed to cool the clutch disk.

So yes u will lose low rpm power but the trade off is the power up top.

If u really dont know what u want after a month get the 1-3/4 long tubes and go from there. 1-3/4 is not a limiting factor unless u have a displacement of 440ci or higher or supercharged then 1-7/8 will make more power.

 

[1MeanZ]

The way they describe NLS is that it's purely there to prevent an over rev, not necessarily to cut power, during shifts. So it's decently hard on the transmission since power is never actually cut during shift as it should be. It works well, but I only use it sparingly when I absolutely need every last drop of performance.

My experience with NLS doesn't match this. I think NLS actually is easier on the trans in my case. On the stock tune, a powershift results in the trans getting hit by the engine at full song when the clutch pedal comes back out. When you let the clutch back out the engine rpm is way above where it needs to be and the trans gets shocked when the clutch is re-engaged. With NLS, if you clutch and pull the stick when the tach turns red, the rpms actually come back down and are matched to road speed when you let the clutch back out. It is seamless, no jerking, no shock. ON my car when I use the NLS, the car actually sounds like I let off the throttle and shifted it normally, just really fast.

 

[EFI]

My experience with NLS doesn't match this. I think NLS actually is easier on the trans in my case. On the stock tune, a powershift results in the trans getting hit by the engine at full song when the clutch pedal comes back out. When you let the clutch back out the engine rpm is way above where it needs to be and the trans gets shocked when the clutch is re-engaged. With NLS, if you clutch and pull the stick when the tach turns red, the rpms actually come back down and are matched to road speed when you let the clutch back out. It is seamless, no jerking, no shock. ON my car when I use the NLS, the car actually sounds like I let off the throttle and shifted it normally, just really fast.

Yes, I experienced the same. What you're describing is a pseudo rev-match which as with the downshift rev match it's smoother than not. However this rev-match feature does not in fact prevent the full load of the engine on the trans as is the case when you let off the throttle during a shift. The only reason I mentioned it's harder on the trans is because I personally asked FP about it. They say that it is as "tough" on the trans as with manual power shifting and that the computer doesn't apply power cutting methods to help the trans instead it just keeps you from over revving. They said to use caution when doing it.

 

[Brazos609]

It's a US-spec GT Premium PP with 6S MT. I was thinking specifically about FPP3 because it will hold the value of the car better than some random aftermarket. It's a Roush RS2 with a handwritten signature of Jack Roush sr. on the dashboard so in Europe it's actually rather a rare thing. I would like to preserve it if you know what I mean. The price of any stang mod in Europe is usually 1.5 to 2 times the price of a mod in US. As I said, I mostly care about low-end performance and every-day usability because I rarely use the car's full potential (over 4.5k RPM). If you say that for instance, a Roush CAI with a good tune will do significant enough difference then maybe there is no point in overinvesting.

Since you have a US spec Roush RS2 why not just go with the Roush Performance Pac - Level 2 to match. You get an air intake, safe tune, and an axle back exhaust for a reasonable cost. The whole Roush kit is the same price as just a GT350 intake manifold. That would follow your Roush theme well and give you a decent bump in power.

 

[Luke17]

Since you have a US spec Roush RS2 why not just go with the Roush Performance Pac - Level 2 to match. You get an air intake, safe tune, and an axle back exhaust for a reasonable cost. The whole Roush kit is the same price as just a GT350 intake manifold. That would follow your Roush theme well and give you a decent bump in power.

That was my initial idea. I even already have a quad tip roush axleback so the only missing pieces are CAI and a good tune. It's just I've heard that it doesn't make any noticable difference. That's I started looking towards Ford Performance parts that still kinda follow that OEM theme.

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