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GT350 Engine Refresh Time!

wldtang

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I bought a gt350 engine from a guy. Trying to identify the year of it. As the owner didn’t know much of anything about it.

The heads have a casting number RFXE-6090-00335822 and RFXE-6C064-00335624

Anyone know where I could find info on these heads.
 
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honeybadger

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Got my second Blackstone Labs report back from my July track days. This oil came out after 2.5 days at COTA in 100* heat just being pounded. Looking great so far

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Got my second Blackstone Labs report back from my July track days. This oil came out after 2.5 days at COTA in 100* heat just being pounded. Looking great so far
Looking at these results, seems like you could get at least 3-4 events on a change, especially now that you've got your temps under control. Additive breakdown isn't a factor on this timescale and you're not seeing any reduction in viscosity or shear.
 
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honeybadger

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Looking at these results, seems like you could get at least 3-4 events on a change, especially now that you've got your temps under control. Additive breakdown isn't a factor on this timescale and you're not seeing any reduction in viscosity or shear.
Agreed. I'll still change it every 4-6 hours purely because I'm on my own dime now and would hate a journey towards catastrophic engine failure to be accelerated due to oil breaking down or getting coolant/water/fuel in it (although unlikely).

But it is great reassurance that this Dominator oil is working well for me and I have a cushion.
 

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honeybadger

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I get quite a few inquiries on much of a difference the engine makes. It's less than you'd think, but still influential is how I'd describe it. Here's a good example. Big compromise at T11 to take the inside line. Typically when I get a point by there, I get a point-by and a lift, so I compromise the corner to ensure closing speeds aren't dangerous. However, the GT350R didn't lift, so I could've taken it normally.

Either way, even with a compromised exit and a lot more drag because of the wing/splitter, etc., I was still able to chase him down and pass without him lifting.



It definitely makes a difference, but it won't dramatically improve lap times or make you just wreck cars with better hp/lbs ratios. It definitely makes the biggest difference in gears 4th/5th as you can see. It's just so strong up top.
 
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honeybadger

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I'm convinced Kevin doesn't work. Or he secretly owns COTA lol.
HA. This was filmed at my track weekend a couple weekends ago and edited last night (kicked the wife out of the office so I could finally get it done).

Unfortunately, I do work for a living :(

If you know any get rich quick schemes that would definitely lead to early retirement, let me know!

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The commentary between the laps was a great addition.
 
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Another lab report. All is looking perfect. Motor has about 30 hours on it now. Debating on opening up the valve covers over winter to do retainers and check things out. Make a few other upgrades like a vacuum pump and the upgraded secondary tensioner.

upload_2019-11-12_16-34-26.png
 

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Fascinating. Your used Dominator 15w50 is actually a smidge thinner than my last UOA of Motorcraft 5W50 with 6500 miles on it. As I'm sure you're aware, that's the oil that shears down to water the moment you unscrew the bottle cap. It came in at 16.0.
 

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Fascinating. Your used Dominator 15w50 is actually a smidge thinner than my last UOA of Motorcraft 5W50 with 6500 miles on it. As I'm sure you're aware, that's the oil that shears down to water the moment you unscrew the bottle cap. It came in at 16.0.
Thanks for that data point @JAJ! I actually bought some amsoil for other cars last week and could not believe how expensive it had gotten. Last time I bought a case of the full synthetic from them it was <$100 (must have been a couple years ago), but this time it was around $130 - even with the dealer/preferred customer discount. I'll be sticking with the motorcraft for now in the GT350 (~ $90 a case at RockAuto).

Amsoil must have been sourcing their feedstock from the Superior refinery that had the explosion last year and had to re-negotiate with a different source!
 

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Thanks for that data point @JAJ! I actually bought some amsoil for other cars last week and could not believe how expensive it had gotten. Last time I bought a case of the full synthetic from them it was <$100 (must have been a couple years ago), but this time it was around $130 - even with the dealer/preferred customer discount. I'll be sticking with the motorcraft for now in the GT350 (~ $90 a case at RockAuto).

Amsoil must have been sourcing their feedstock from the Superior refinery that had the explosion last year and had to re-negotiate with a different source!
Or it could be "new owner - new pricing". Hard to know.

I think the Motorcraft has been reformulated. It comes in a new wider-mouth bottle as of some time last year or earlier this year, and the stuff in the new bottles doesn't seem to shear as much as the original did. The UOA I had was stellar - it's posted on this forum in another thread:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/blackstone-oil-analysis.122347/page-2#post-2661320
 
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Fascinating. Your used Dominator 15w50 is actually a smidge thinner than my last UOA of Motorcraft 5W50 with 6500 miles on it. As I'm sure you're aware, that's the oil that shears down to water the moment you unscrew the bottle cap. It came in at 16.0.
Nice! I'm not surprised to hear that. I ran it for the life of my first 12k track miles and it was more than adequate. Plenty good for normal/average track conditions.

This batch spent 5 hours about 4,500 RPM, so not surprising it's a bit thinner.
 
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Happy thanksgiving ya'll!

So I've mentioned that the new motor smoked a bit when cold before. Over the last 2 months, it's been getting a bit worse. Enough to catch my eye and get me thinking.

While I'm working on a heater core bypass between events, I decided to do some digging. I've noticed that it'll also blow a puff of smoke if I let it idle for too long - this indicates valve seals. I originally thought ring gaps because once it got hot, it went away. Today I pulled the intake off and looked into the intake runners and saw that some oil has pooled up on the valves. Definitely bad valve seals IMHO. Fortunately/unfortunately, I'm coming up on the 40 hour maintenance interval for the valve train. Looks like I'll add these to my list for winter maintenance. I'm planning on a full engine removal and investigation this winter, so at least we'll get to dig in and see how the built motor is wearing otherwise.

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