MGW shifter

[Tonymustang302]

So which one is better, race spec or xspec?

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[BlueThunder]

So which one is better, race spec or xspec?

There's no difference in quality, the x-spec is just another 2 extra levels of shorter.

https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/mustangs/103

In addition, my dash-cam showed their most senior tech wanting to make a 3 point turn in the shop and unable to get it into reverse for over 5 minutes while the tech in the bay he was blocking was giving him shit. It never dawned on me I had to tell them to push down for reverse (one of my favorite things about the MGW). I guess its easier if you don't always work on a particular model because neither the tire, muffler or alignment shops (only ones else who have driven the car) had the slightest problem/delay.

Anytime I've done a mod to my cars, whenever I have to take it in for any service work whether at Ford or another shop, I always leave a note or something detailing the difference from stock. And I swear it makes me feel like these guys must think I'm a dick, like me, joe-blow nobody, knows more than the actual mechanics/technicians taking care of the car. But you see/hear things like what you said, and as much as they may think I'm a dick for doing it, it makes me feel a hell of a lot safer that they're not going to break something because it's not like 99% of the rest of the vehicles they see.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Anytime I've done a mod to my cars, whenever I have to take it in for any service work whether at Ford or another shop, I always leave a note or something detailing the difference from stock. And I swear it makes me feel like these guys must think I'm a dick, like me, joe-blow nobody, knows more than the actual mechanics/technicians taking care of the car. But you see/hear things like what you said, and as much as they may think I'm a dick for doing it, it makes me feel a hell of a lot safer that they're not going to break something because it's not like 99% of the rest of the vehicles they see.

I'm going to do the same from now on.

 

[3star2nr]

Just from an engineering standpoint I really like the MGW over the barton. The barton is trying to be all things to all people. And it doesn't make sense designing something like that. The beauty of the mgw is its simplicity. The linkage on the MGW seems way superior than the overly complex design of the barton.

 

[ctandc72]

I'm pulling the trigger on a MGW Monday morning. Took the '19 GT to the track last night. First time, roasted the MT Bias Plys - too much air pressure and too much RPM. To make it more fun, 3rd gear lockout around 7000 RPM. Second run, less RPM, lower air pressure, not enough RPM. Locked me out of 2nd around 7K and then the same for 3rd.

I can shift with zero issues at high RPM , as long as I'm not matting it prior. Not notchy etc.

Decided on the MGW Race (Standard) Spec low profile handle. Any tips on install? Yeah the top bolt can be a bitch, the boot sucks. Anything else?

Anyone running this combo?

 

[Laztug]

I'm pulling the trigger on a MGW Monday morning. Took the '19 GT to the track last night. First time, roasted the MT Bias Plys - too much air pressure and too much RPM. To make it more fun, 3rd gear lockout around 7000 RPM. Second run, less RPM, lower air pressure, not enough RPM. Locked me out of 2nd around 7K and then the same for 3rd.

I can shift with zero issues at high RPM , as long as I'm not matting it prior. Not notchy etc.

Decided on the MGW Race (Standard) Spec low profile handle. Any tips on install? Yeah the top bolt can be a bitch, the boot sucks. Anything else?

Anyone running this combo?

You will need a new clutch to remedy that high RPM lockout.

 

[MikeD]

I'm pulling the trigger on a MGW Monday morning. Took the '19 GT to the track last night. First time, roasted the MT Bias Plys - too much air pressure and too much RPM. To make it more fun, 3rd gear lockout around 7000 RPM. Second run, less RPM, lower air pressure, not enough RPM. Locked me out of 2nd around 7K and then the same for 3rd.

I can shift with zero issues at high RPM , as long as I'm not matting it prior. Not notchy etc.

Decided on the MGW Race (Standard) Spec low profile handle. Any tips on install? Yeah the top bolt can be a bitch, the boot sucks. Anything else?

Anyone running this combo?

Does your 19 have a MT 82 trans? If so, I had mine installed because I had no way to get the car up high enough for me do it myself easily. I did noticed the mechanic had disconnected the drive shaft at the transmission to get better access. If you do this be sure to mark the connection point so yo will reinstall the drive shaft in its original position. Study the MGW installation video and you will be fine. Also you will need a new shift ball for the shifters or at least an OEM adaptor to complete the installation. Best of luck; it’s worth the effort.

 

[ctandc72]

You will need a new clutch to remedy that high RPM lockout.

Clutch is fine. No sticking pedal. Like I said - no high RPM lockout when I'm not WOT. Friend's '18 had the same issue - he never even noticed it until he went to the track. Installed a Barton and no more lockout. I want the MGW. He got the Barton for cheap used. It's from the trans torquing over. On my '17 same issue. Replaced shifter bushing, trans mount insert and Boomba shifter and fluid. No more lock out. I just want to go a different route (MGW) this time.

 

[ctandc72]

Does your 19 have a MT 82 trans? If so, I had mine installed because I had no way to get the car up high enough for me do it myself easily. I did noticed the mechanic had disconnected the drive shaft at the transmission to get better access. If you do this be sure to mark the connection point so yo will reinstall the drive shaft in its original position. Study the MGW installation video and you will be fine. Also you will need a new shift ball for the shifters or at least an OEM adaptor to complete the installation. Best of luck; it’s worth the effort.

Thanks. I've got stands and jack stands. I've done a few rear swaps, just did an exhaust swap today for a friend. I was just looking for any specific tips that people usually come across from experience.

 

[BlueThunder]

I was just looking for any specific tips that people usually come across from experience.

Just did my XSPEC standard MGW install this weekend. No pictures or anything yet but I'll probably do a separate post on it.

I would rather have had a detailed instructions sheet than having to keep my Kindle with me under the car to ensure I'm following along properly without getting it full of grime. The video is great though if you can keep it handy.

I did mine on 10" race ramps (just the stand version). I'd be really uncomfortable with regular jack stands under my Steeda rails doing a lot of grunt work, and having that area open to move in and out of makes it much easier. Left the exhaust and drive-shaft alone.

As far as the top bolt, I cheated a bit and gouged out some of that insulation in order to get it out. I have torn cartilage in my left shoulder so being able to pull down and get that bolt out would've been tough. I did put a docking line over the top of the tranny and tied it to my jack (it's an old, heavy, beastly thing) and used that as leverage. Bolt came out pretty easy once I cleared the insulation and it went in immediately once the MGW mount was in. Took a little finagling to get the bolt to go through the MGW hole and it was a bitch to tighten with the mounting arms; I wish I had one of those articulating box-wrench ratchets for that part.

Toughest part was actually attaching the MGW linkage to the tranny. It took me a while to get that bolt down through enough to start a few turns. I eventually just tapped on it with the side of a small hammer and then I was able to turn it.

Everything else is pretty straight-forward. My only major recommendation here from my experience is when you go to install the MGW, get it in the hole, get it set in place, but don't Loctite the bolts; just get them in there a little ways. Then test the shifter to make sure the reverse-lockout pin is properly set. Then take those bolts out, take out the MGW, put the dust boot on, and then put it back in. Another hint; if you're having trouble getting the MGW angled into the hole, you can take off the soft black plastic cap and then put it back on after installing. It's just a dust cover for the shift shaft when you're in the odd gears.

Also, if you're not removing at least the drive shaft, some good gloves will go a long way because there are some sharp things up there, especially when you start ratcheting.

 

[ctandc72]

Just did my XSPEC standard MGW install this weekend. No pictures or anything yet but I'll probably do a separate post on it.

I would rather have had a detailed instructions sheet than having to keep my Kindle with me under the car to ensure I'm following along properly without getting it full of grime. The video is great though if you can keep it handy.

I did mine on 10" race ramps (just the stand version). I'd be really uncomfortable with regular jack stands under my Steeda rails doing a lot of grunt work, and having that area open to move in and out of makes it much easier. Left the exhaust and drive-shaft alone.

As far as the top bolt, I cheated a bit and gouged out some of that insulation in order to get it out. I have torn cartilage in my left shoulder so being able to pull down and get that bolt out would've been tough. I did put a docking line over the top of the tranny and tied it to my jack (it's an old, heavy, beastly thing) and used that as leverage. Bolt came out pretty easy once I cleared the insulation and it went in immediately once the MGW mount was in. Took a little finagling to get the bolt to go through the MGW hole and it was a bitch to tighten with the mounting arms; I wish I had one of those articulating box-wrench ratchets for that part.

Toughest part was actually attaching the MGW linkage to the tranny. It took me a while to get that bolt down through enough to start a few turns. I eventually just tapped on it with the side of a small hammer and then I was able to turn it.

Everything else is pretty straight-forward. My only major recommendation here from my experience is when you go to install the MGW, get it in the hole, get it set in place, but don't Loctite the bolts; just get them in there a little ways. Then test the shifter to make sure the reverse-lockout pin is properly set. Then take those bolts out, take out the MGW, put the dust boot on, and then put it back in. Another hint; if you're having trouble getting the MGW angled into the hole, you can take off the soft black plastic cap and then put it back on after installing. It's just a dust cover for the shift shaft when you're in the odd gears.

Also, if you're not removing at least the drive shaft, some good gloves will go a long way because there are some sharp things up there, especially when you start ratcheting.

Thanks, much appreciated.

 

[TjB]

Been looking at the MGW shifters for a little while now, thinking about going for it and my detailer just got a short throw installed in his eco and it was pretty smooth. As long as the install isn't too terribly difficult.

 

[ctandc72]

Ordered the Race Spec / Low profile from LethalPerformance this morning. Can't wait to get this thing installed.

 

[BlueThunder]

Ordered the Race Spec / Low profile from LethalPerformance this morning. Can't wait to get this thing installed.

Nice. It'll probably be really short with the X/low profile so I hope you have a knob or extension to compensate. Especially to break it in because god-damn is this thing stiff. But it's amazing though. It just snaps into every shift, as a number of folks have stated, like a bolt-action rifle vs. the OEM that somebody called "a stick in the mud". Definitely takes some effort going from the 1.5 lb Raceseng knob to the .4 lb Billetworkz and the stiff short-shifter, but it just makes for a really confident shift, especially quick downshifts.

Hit me up if you have any questions about the install since it's still fresh in my mind.

 

[mikeD4V]

@ctandc72 I found it to be an easier job doing a little more work up front: remove the exhaust, mark the driveshaft, disconnect the front of the driveshaft and lower the flange down onto cardboard, then loosen but don't remove the trans cross member bolts to lower the rear of the trans a few inches. That will give you more access the top part of the transmission where most people have trouble. Also, for me, removing the factory shifter as a whole was easier and faster than playing with disassembling it as most videos show. With the loosened trans cross member bolts you can remove the stock shifter assembly completely.

The reverse lockout is adjustable and is most likely 95% spot on but a quick tweak is easy and encouraged. I boogered up the boot so no good tips on that ha

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