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Ewheels

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I thought the plates/deflectors Vorslag tested were prototype larger ones rather than the standard PP parts?

They specificly mentioned they were working on new ones "that should be availible soon" (months ago).
The test results in the link are their larger deflectors. The PP ones work as well but I'm sure Vorshlag's larger deflector plates work a bit better,

Those prototype plates are available for purchase on their website now
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BmacIL

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Thanks for the post. I just read through their entire build blog for the 2018. I really enjoyed it. This guy even runs at my home track MSR C. How freaking cool. Those ducting plates are for sale on their site now. 129. I may grab some. I'm running the Steeda bearing control arms instead of the stock ones so the arm kinda articulates around on the bearing. It causes the ducting plate to sit at an angle depending on how the bearing is swivled at the time, although it seems to default fully locked out in the inward position.

Also. Where the hell is that diff cooler prototype at vorshlag? The very last post of it has a pic and he talked about updating with the results of the prototype but never did. That was in Aug and it looks like they're selling the car now. Their design looks to use the stock diff cover which would save time and money on install and parts vs the FTB kit. TAKE MY MONEY! I'm going to reach out to them so see if it's something they are still working on.
20190917_130846.jpg
That's weird. I have bearings there too and mine are not cocked over like that. Did you install L on R, R on L? I ask because I mistakenly did that when I installed the roll center correction lateral arms. It's easy enough to do that you ought to check it out.
 

PoppinJ

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That's weird. I have bearings there too and mine are not cocked over like that. Did you install L on R, R on L? I ask because I mistakenly did that when I installed the roll center correction lateral arms. It's easy enough to do that you ought to check it out.
I purchased them pre assembled from Steeda. I don't think you would be able to put them on backwards because the defusers would be facing the wrong way if you did. Are they marked L and R? I can double check.
 

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I purchased them pre assembled from Steeda. I don't think you would be able to put them on backwards because the defusers would be facing the wrong way if you did. Are they marked L and R? I can double check.
The deflectors could be installed backwards too...

The arm has some twist built-in to it for caster angle, but it's not always enough to be immediately obvious, especially if the deflectors are installed backwards.
 

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The deflectors could be installed backwards too...

The arm has some twist built-in to it for caster angle, but it's not always enough to be immediately obvious, especially if the deflectors are installed backwards.
Ok yes I see the twist on the old ones but no L or R. How do u tell which one goes on L or R?

The diffusers say L and R.

Edit. NVM. The new driver side arm has an L on it. I'm assuming that's what it means.
20191024_083003.jpg
20191024_083036.jpg


You can see an upside down R on the passenger side. The stock ones don't have an L and R on them, but the Steeda replacements do. Strange.
20191024_083421.jpg
 
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lso we know that our lowly tire temps must be read in the hot pits and that just the cooling off of tires driving to the paddock makes the results useless. That is only ambient temp to around 250F. What is the significance of the measurement cool down time like does the wheel have to come off? How much time does that take?
Honestly, the 100* difference AFTER it has had a chance to cool down by driving to the pits is even more impressive. If this was peak temp, 1400* vs. 1500* I guess is a small difference. However if this 100* difference is after quite a bit of cooling naturally, that's even a big deal at say 600* vs 700*. This means that peak difference is alot more than 100*.
 

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Honestly, the 100* difference AFTER it has had a chance to cool down by driving to the pits is even more impressive. If this was peak temp, 1400* vs. 1500* I guess is a small difference. However if this 100* difference is after quite a bit of cooling naturally, that's even a big deal at say 600* vs 700*. This means that peak difference is alot more than 100*.
actually...it is meaningless. No one cares what the temp delta is after some cooling. The only goal is making brakes survive at race speeds.

Racing rotors get over 1000F that's why you look at the range of say carbotech racing pads from xp 8-xp24 the min range starts at 1200F and goes to 2000F. So even if the operational max was only the minimum 1200F a 100F delta is nothing to get excited about. Vorschlag is a racer and in the article he has packaging issues where he crushes his brake ducts that cuts off the air to the rotors. That is what prompted the experiment because 100% of us racers know ducting works and that is just the 1st go to low hanging fruit. If his brakes survive with deflectors instead of ducts he will know this from racing. That is the only thing that matters.

Vorschalg built a S550 with a bunch of race parts. I did not research what engine mods, what tires, what suspension mods, what race weight? All that influences how much heat you are making. What that means is you can't say deflectors or ducts are best for every S550.
 

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Does anyone know the part number for the 2018 GT PP1 undertray, with the recessed brake cooling ducts? Also, will this undertray be compatible with the splitter on a EB PP car? The splitter on the GT PP1 and the EB PP look exactly the same to me.

Thanks.
 
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Does anyone know the part number for the 2018 GT PP1 undertray, with the recessed brake cooling ducts? Also, will this undertray be compatible with the splitter on a EB PP car? The splitter on the GT PP1 and the EB PP look exactly the same to me.

Thanks.
I would ask @LevittownFordParts they will be able to give you all the part numbers you need and if they are compatible.
 

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I would ask @LevittownFordParts they will be able to give you all the part numbers you need and if they are compatible.

The PP1 GT uses JR3Z-17626-B belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-BA Splitter
The EB Prem. uses JR3Z-17626-A belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-AA Splitter

It's hard to say if they are interchangeable though as we dont have proven data

-Benny
 

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The PP1 GT uses JR3Z-17626-B belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-BA Splitter
The EB Prem. uses JR3Z-17626-A belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-AA Splitter

It's hard to say if they are interchangeable though as we dont have proven data

-Benny
@LevittownFordParts - Do you have the part numbers for 2015 PP undertray and splitter?
 

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Sure FR3Z-17626-D belly pan and FR3Z-17D957-BA splitter

Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
-Benny
Thanks Benny, you're the man. I've written this down. Looking to pick these up maybe in the next month or two.
 

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Honestly, the 100* difference AFTER it has had a chance to cool down by driving to the pits is even more impressive. If this was peak temp, 1400* vs. 1500* I guess is a small difference. However if this 100* difference is after quite a bit of cooling naturally, that's even a big deal at say 600* vs 700*. This means that peak difference is alot more than 100*.
Actually measuring max temperature is easy with a set of temperature indicating paints. Paint several different temp stripes on the pad perimeter, run the piss out of the car, and at your leisure take off the wheel to see which one paint stripe does not change color. The pads did not get as hot as that paint indicates.

Maybe it was just me, but I would take tire temps/pressures in the pits, not to see OA max temp, but more for a temp profile across the tire to determine if the suspension setup needed to be tweaked for that track and/or conditions.
 

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The PP1 GT uses JR3Z-17626-B belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-BA Splitter
The EB Prem. uses JR3Z-17626-A belly pan and JR3Z-17D957-AA Splitter

It's hard to say if they are interchangeable though as we dont have proven data

-Benny
My understanding is that the EB Performance Pack uses a different splitter than non-Perf Pack cars. Is the EB Perf Pack splitter the same as the GT PP1 splitter? Thanks.
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