Has anyone installed a Rockford Fosgate DSR1?

[Cathul]

I got the amp for $320, you think it's worth paying the extra money for the Audison?

I really don't know. Have never used an Audison amp or the Kenwood for that matter. The corresponding amps with Maestro AR integration are not available in Europe, therefor i went with the DSR1 (and even for this i had to import the HRN-AR-FO3 harness from the USA as the local distributor is not importing this harness to Germany).

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[Cobra Jet]

Thanks and per @thill444, the DSR1 can be had for under $202.49 at Best Buy:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt350-9-speaker-upgrade.139535/page-3#post-2891385

 

[thill444]

Thanks and per @thill444, the DSR1 can be had for under $202.49 at Best Buy:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gt350-9-speaker-upgrade.139535/page-3#post-2891385

Thanks for posting this. And let me just say, I had a number of reservations when I bought the DSR1. It seems like many people had a bad experience with it, while others said it worked great. I followed the instructions and updated the DSR1 module step-by-step and ensured it was configured to use the proper T-harness. That part was probably the worst because my Windows laptop is ancient (I am a Mac guy) and it took forever, and I had to try two different USB cables to get it to work.

But everything else about the DSR1 is awesome. It connects to my iPad and iPhone using Bluetooth every time and the interface is super slick and easy to use. It is really a great value for what you get and I would not hesitate to recommend it. It's small enough that I placed it right where the stock amp was located and it's all just plug and play.

Big fan. It seems like with the latest updates they sorted out all the bugs.

 

[krishelnino]

Thanks for posting this. And let me just say, I had a number of reservations when I bought the DSR1. It seems like many people had a bad experience with it, while others said it worked great. I followed the instructions and updated the DSR1 module step-by-step and ensured it was configured to use the proper T-harness. That part was probably the worst because my Windows laptop is ancient (I am a Mac guy) and it took forever, and I had to try two different USB cables to get it to work.

But everything else about the DSR1 is awesome. It connects to my iPad and iPhone using Bluetooth every time and the interface is super slick and easy to use. It is really a great value for what you get and I would not hesitate to recommend it. It's small enough that I placed it right where the stock amp was located and it's all just plug and play.

Big fan. It seems like with the latest updates they sorted out all the bugs.

Good to hear it's working well for you. It was a PITA for me, ditched it and went with Helix DSP .3 and the difference is night and day in terms of sound stage ! The DSR1 had connectivity issues, don't even bother trying to connect with an android and with iPhone, iPad it would work fine but still disconnects randomly. plus the DSR1 output was very weak and after spending a month dealing with RF and Maestro customer service they were playing the blame game with each other. Maestro did their best to support me by providing beta firmwares to test however RF customer care was shitty. They refused to even admit that their product had an issue.

 

[thill444]

Good to hear it's working well for you. It was a PITA for me, ditched it and went with Helix DSP .3 and the difference is night and day in terms of sound stage ! The DSR1 had connectivity issues, don't even bother trying to connect with an android and with iPhone, iPad it would work fine but still disconnects randomly. plus the DSR1 output was very weak and after spending a month dealing with RF and Maestro customer service they were playing the blame game with each other. Maestro did their best to support me by providing beta firmwares to test however RF customer care was shitty. They refused to even admit that their product had an issue.

It seems like either your unit was defective or perhaps some of the cables. I don't doubt your experience, I would be frustrated too and ditch it. It's one of the reasons I bought mine from Best Buy so I can do an easy return if there was an issue. In terms of output I have no issue. I have the gains on my amps about as low as they can go without being at zero and at 14-16 it is very loud, and I drive a GT350 in Sport mode which is not exactly quiet

But for those on a budget and need 6-8 active channels it may be worth the gamble.

 

[krishelnino]

It seems like either your unit was defective or perhaps some of the cables. I don't doubt your experience, I would be frustrated too and ditch it. It's one of the reasons I bought mine from Best Buy so I can do an easy return if there was an issue. In terms of output I have no issue. I have the gains on my amps about as low as they can go without being at zero and at 14-16 it is very loud, and I drive a GT350 in Sport mode which is not exactly quiet

But for those on a budget and need 6-8 active channels it may be worth the gamble.

I got it from an authorized installer, and went through 2 different units. I was able to return it and the installer swapped the Helix free of cost. But yeah, i'd have loved for it to work, the ability to switch presets from the phone is a nice feature to have.

 

[Canoman]

I finally got my DSR-1 and an amp functional the other day. Still waiting on some more 4gauge wire to arrive before I can finish the bass amp and subs. But I've been playing with the DSR1 and my 4-channel amp. I noticed that my battery seemed to have been partially discharged the other day, so I started messing with things trying to figure it out. It seems as if the DSR1 isn't turning the amp off when I turn the car off. When I got the DSR1 installed, I noticed that its LED's seemed to stay on all the time, regardless of whether or not the car was on. That made me wonder, but I didn't think too much of it because I figured it wasn't much of a power draw. I went for a month or more before finally getting my amp installed and wired up. Yesterday, I spent some time trying to connect to the DSR1 over bluetooth with my phone and my ipad, and neither could hold a connection with it. I looked online and found that the guys at 5Star said if you have bluetooth problems, you need to do the idatalink update. Brought out a laptop with the Weblink software installed, plugged in the USB cable and tried to flash but it couldn't detect the DSR1. I had also lost audio the night before, and couldn't figure out why. I ended up pulling the small fuse in the power wire to the DSR1 to reboot it. I couldn't figure out any other way to restart the thing. After that, I did get my audio back, but the bluetooth issue remains, and I still can't get the laptop to recognize it. I've tried all of the different USB ports on the laptop, but none worked. I did figure out, however, that if I connect my iphone to the car through the USB port in the dash, my phone can communicate with the DSR1, even though it can't over bluetooth. So I can make updates to the tuning and whatnot that way, but I can't make any changes wirelessly.

Anybody have an idea of how I might troubleshoot this amp turn-off issue? Currently, I just unplug the remote wire from my terminal strip, by lowering the driver side half of the back seat and pulling the wire out. What a pain. If I can't figure out the issue, I may wire in a manual switch and put it in the center console. Ugh.

 

[Cathul]

Pull it out, connect to your computer and reflash it. The DSR1 behaves the same as your stock amp, i.e. it takes a few minutes to turn off the amps after shutting the doors. If you reopen the car before the shutdown took place it wont shut down the amps.

 

[Canoman]

Pull it out, connect to your computer and reflash it. The DSR1 behaves the same as your stock amp, i.e. it takes a few minutes to turn off the amps after shutting the doors. If you reopen the car before the shutdown took place it wont shut down the amps.

Doesn’t the stock amp shut off when you shut the door? Would the trunk being open prevent it from turning off?

 

[OF5.0]

I finally got my DSR-1 and an amp functional the other day. Still waiting on some more 4gauge wire to arrive before I can finish the bass amp and subs. But I've been playing with the DSR1 and my 4-channel amp. I noticed that my battery seemed to have been partially discharged the other day, so I started messing with things trying to figure it out. It seems as if the DSR1 isn't turning the amp off when I turn the car off. When I got the DSR1 installed, I noticed that its LED's seemed to stay on all the time, regardless of whether or not the car was on. That made me wonder, but I didn't think too much of it because I figured it wasn't much of a power draw. I went for a month or more before finally getting my amp installed and wired up. Yesterday, I spent some time trying to connect to the DSR1 over bluetooth with my phone and my ipad, and neither could hold a connection with it. I looked online and found that the guys at 5Star said if you have bluetooth problems, you need to do the idatalink update. Brought out a laptop with the Weblink software installed, plugged in the USB cable and tried to flash but it couldn't detect the DSR1. I had also lost audio the night before, and couldn't figure out why. I ended up pulling the small fuse in the power wire to the DSR1 to reboot it. I couldn't figure out any other way to restart the thing. After that, I did get my audio back, but the bluetooth issue remains, and I still can't get the laptop to recognize it. I've tried all of the different USB ports on the laptop, but none worked. I did figure out, however, that if I connect my iphone to the car through the USB port in the dash, my phone can communicate with the DSR1, even though it can't over bluetooth. So I can make updates to the tuning and whatnot that way, but I can't make any changes wirelessly.

Anybody have an idea of how I might troubleshoot this amp turn-off issue? Currently, I just unplug the remote wire from my terminal strip, by lowering the driver side half of the back seat and pulling the wire out. What a pain. If I can't figure out the issue, I may wire in a manual switch and put it in the center console. Ugh.

Your amp turn-off issue is not an issue. Your amp turns off in the same interval that the factory amp would have. This is from the installation manual:

 

[Canoman]

Your amp turn-off issue is not an issue. Your amp turns off in the same interval that the factory amp would have. This is from the installation manual:

I know that’s how it’s supposed to work, but I’m not convinced I don’t have an issue, yet. I left the remote wire connected this evening, went back out a couple hours later, opened the trunk and the amp was on. Didn’t get in the car at all. Does anybody know if the factory amp turns on when opening the trunk with the key fob?

 

[Cathul]

Yes it does. The whole car wakes up when you open any door including the trunk.

 

[Canoman]

Yes it does. The whole car wakes up when you open any door including the trunk.

Ok, thanks. I'll try another method to see if it turns off.

 

[thill444]

Ok, thanks. I'll try another method to see if it turns off.

This is all normal. Does your amp have lights? Maybe watch for them to turn off after your car goes to sleep. I’m not sure if you can reprogram via Forscan if it really bugs you.

 

[Cathul]

Btw... there is hope for all the base system owners... idatalink will publish a new T-harness that reprograms the base ACM to flat, variable line level output and connects to the DSR1 or Maestro AR (which then can be connected to several ARC Audio, Audison and one Kenwood amps) within the next few weeks.

The guys at 5 Star Car Stereo will publish a video this week where they put this cable into a Ford Explorer with a base radio system (i.e. non-Shaker, Sony or B&O).

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