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Torinate

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I don’t think they would have any real issue tuning for it. They should have literally tonnes of data for the PMAS, although probably not at the kind of flow rates you’d be looking at.
I’d have a good chat with them about it before going too much further though just to be sure.
I certainly agree about talking to the tuner beforehand. I will have it “left over” from going from NA to boosted so may try to utilize it. I guess the challenge will
Be sourcing the tube as Kona has said.

Any links to the China piece you used Kona?

Burkey, which tune are you liking more? How was the latest revision?
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Kona 18

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I certainly agree about talking to the tuner beforehand. I will have it “left over” from going from NA to boosted so may try to utilize it. I guess the challenge will
Be sourcing the tube as Kona has said.

Any links to the China piece you used Kona?
Here you go, it's a 4.25>5" 90 coupler, it doesn't look like the pic, the legs are shorter like the pic I posted. You will need to figure out your PCV set up, either VTA, or drill and tape the hole for the Edelbrock fitting.

Don't bother with the bottom fitting that goes to that 4-way check valve, this hose should be ran straight to brake booster(eliminate the 4 way check valve)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372775727945
 

Burkey

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I certainly agree about talking to the tuner beforehand. I will have it “left over” from going from NA to boosted so may try to utilize it. I guess the challenge will
Be sourcing the tube as Kona has said.

Any links to the China piece you used Kona?

Burkey, which tune are you liking more? How was the latest revision?
PBD are now finished with the tune.
Lund or PBD... that’s a tough question.

Lund pros:
VERY easy and procedural logging.
Immediate response time.
Drives like stock until you bury the boot.
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.
Lund cons:
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.

PBD pros:
Decimates tyres with ease, even in taller gears/low revs.
Goes like a shower of shit (Aussie slang for damn fast)
More aggressive pedal map
Can’t make it stick to the road in third.
PBD cons:
Opposite lock happens a LOT and isn’t always planned.
Logging takes a little more effort, nothing serious.
Responses aren’t always instant (Rob is the only one doing the tuning for FI).
Huge top speed required for logging (4th gear)

Which one will I use?
I’m currently using the PBD tune but I might swap back at some stage.
If I could get the urgency of the PBD tune with the subtle niceties of the Lund tune, that would be absolute perfection.
 

Torinate

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Here you go, it's a 4.25>5" 90 coupler, it doesn't look like the pic, the legs are shorter like the pic I posted. You will need to figure out your PCV set up, either VTA, or drill and tape the hole for the Edelbrock fitting.

Don't bother with the bottom fitting that goes to that 4-way check valve, this hose should be ran straight to brake booster(eliminate the 4 way check valve)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372775727945
Thank you sir. It’s certainly an option! Not sure of the gains, but I’m sure there would be some. I think would also look better... cheaper than going the EB intake route, especially as I already have it.

Did you notice any gain between the EB and PMAS?
 

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PBD are now finished with the tune.
Lund or PBD... that’s a tough question.

Lund pros:
VERY easy and procedural logging.
Immediate response time.
Drives like stock until you bury the boot.
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.
Lund cons:
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.

PBD pros:
Decimates tyres with ease, even in taller gears/low revs.
Goes like a shower of shit (Aussie slang for damn fast)
More aggressive pedal map
Can’t make it stick to the road in third.
PBD cons:
Opposite lock happens a LOT and isn’t always planned.
Logging takes a little more effort, nothing serious.
Responses aren’t always instant (Rob is the only one doing the tuning for FI).
Huge top speed required for logging (4th gear)

Which one will I use?
I’m currently using the PBD tune but I might swap back at some stage.
If I could get the urgency of the PBD tune with the subtle niceties of the Lund tune, that would be absolute perfection.
Thank you very much!

And that’s the discussion. Smoother or meaner? Trans tuning (I’m an auto) also plays a role. I have Lund now NA and love his shifting strategies. I’m not sure what PBD does if it’s the same or better or worse.

Thanks for your testing! It sounds like PBD takes full advantage of the TVS blower’s characteristics of instant low rpm boost and Lund offers a product that just flat out works. More forgiving lower rpm.

Any plans to dyno them? Curious also about peak output and how close they are that way. Truly sounds like both are great options though. Back to my same dilemma. Lol
 

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PBD are now finished with the tune.
Lund or PBD... that’s a tough question.

Lund pros:
VERY easy and procedural logging.
Immediate response time.
Drives like stock until you bury the boot.
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.
Lund cons:
Safe and conservative.
Can do logs in third gear.

PBD pros:
Decimates tyres with ease, even in taller gears/low revs.
Goes like a shower of shit (Aussie slang for damn fast)
More aggressive pedal map
Can’t make it stick to the road in third.
PBD cons:
Opposite lock happens a LOT and isn’t always planned.
Logging takes a little more effort, nothing serious.
Responses aren’t always instant (Rob is the only one doing the tuning for FI).
Huge top speed required for logging (4th gear)

Which one will I use?
I’m currently using the PBD tune but I might swap back at some stage.
If I could get the urgency of the PBD tune with the subtle niceties of the Lund tune, that would be absolute perfection.
Thank you for the info! What do you mean by "opposite lock"?
 

Burkey

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Thank you for the info! What do you mean by "opposite lock"?
Opposite lock: steer into the direction of the slide.
What I’m saying is, the back end comes loose without very much throttle input. All good if you have experience, not so good if you’ve never tried to drive a car sideways, hence, potentially a good Mustang meme creator.
I’ll do a video of a a particular section of my daily drive to work. That might explain it a bit better.
 

Burkey

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When you say shield, are you meaning a closed box of some sort?

Tuning will be either PBD or Lund.

That’s the question, will the extra airflow outweigh the possible increased temps? Likely, depending on temps of course. And depending who can nail the tune.

Burkey, I know you’ve had lots of tuning work with this supercharger, do you think it would be a challenge for one of them to pull the potential from the PMAS?
I was referring to any device that would prevent the intake from drawing hot air directly from the engine bay really.
Point being, the shield PMAS supply does sweet FA to keep the IATs in check. Regardless, the intake will require something placed under it for support.
I understand where @Kona 18 is coming from re: it only matters once you’re up and moving, but the heat you drag through the IC system at idle will raise the temp of the fluid in that system....although it might be negligible. Testing will yield results.
It’s worth noting that there’s plenty of Whipple cars pushing 800+ at the tyres, sucking air through that same size hole in the airbox.
Food for thought.
Either way, I’m keen to see the results and appreciate that people are willing do something different and just generally have a go at finding improvements, whatever they may be.
Personally, I’m more interested in sizing up an S&B filter with a “powerstack” end (more filter area) and maybe opening the Edelbrock (Airaid) box to the inner guard or similar.
 
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@Burkey is the Edelbrock an Airaid with different lid (referring to your last post)?
 

Burkey

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@Burkey is the Edelbrock an Airaid with different lid (referring to your last post)?
Yes sir, it’s an Airaid box with a different lid but they do alter the size of the MAF housing to suit our application better. I believe it’s 113mm but don’t quote me on that. From memory Whipple sits somewhere around 130mm. Can’t recall the PMAS size sorry.
 

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Burkey

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Thank you for the info! What do you mean by "opposite lock"?
Apologies for the thread diversion...
Mate, this video is absolutely typical of my daily drive to work. Although there’s not a heap of oppy lock going on, you can see that if I kept into it I’d be needing to do some work to keep it straight.
@stang_86 also.
 

ForYourOwnGood

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Apologies for the thread diversion...
Mate, this video is absolutely typical of my daily drive to work. Although there’s not a heap of oppy lock going on, you can see that if I kept into it I’d be needing to do some work to keep it straight.
@stang_86 also.
What tires you running? Thats how my car is if I run the stock 18" pirellis. I can spin 5th at 75mph when its below 50 out lol. I found leaving it in normal mode helps a lot as the % throttle to % pedal isn't as harsh. My MP4S stick really well in warm weather and I don't have much spin at low throttle but they're put away for the winter now.
 

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Dang! That combo is really working! You can use the 2019 Bullitt TB (same as GT350 with different electronics) but honestly it's much better to go with the 103 when you are ready for more. Any one of our dealers can buy the air intake as a stand alone kit and the throttle body is PN 38989 for 2018+.

Boost sounds right for a high-flow exhaust setup with custom tuning. The 3.25 pulley will make about 10-11psi on a stock vehicle running our calibration. The 13psi quoted on our website is a worse case for CARB certification.
Thanks for the info. Found the Bullitt version of the 87mm TB for $195. Same bolt pattern as the GT350 87mm. Would I need an adapter? I have a VMP BAP still in the box and I figure that should get me over the 700rwhp threshold by a decent margin. 103mm and Edelbrock or Airaid airbox with injectors can come later.

This whole project for me is seeing how the Gen3 Coyote A10 responds to various mod combinations from its baseline of 395 off the showroom floor...
 

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@Burkey is the Edelbrock an Airaid with different lid (referring to your last post)?
I think Airaid is who was contracted to make the intake, but it's not available off the shelf from Airaid themselves or other vendors, has to be bought from Edelbrock
 

Burkey

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I think Airaid is who was contracted to make the intake, but it's not available off the shelf from Airaid themselves or other vendors, has to be bought from Edelbrock
Yes, you have to buy it from Edelbrock in order to get the MAF housing in the correct size.
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