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Ok..some progress. I'm tip toeing a bit since I don't want to fry the PCM.

The instructions say to connect the car harness female side to the male side of the MSD harness for all 8 cylinders and turn the car to the on position and look for the red light to be active. I was able to do that while ensuring the purple side of the car harness always lines up with the grey wire of the MSD harness, you need to flip the MSD harness on cyl 3.

Next step is to sort the female MSD harness plug into the coils themselves.

I will post specific pics once I get this for everyone to have a clear how to on.
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Mission accomplished! 2 step works!

Here's the skinny (turns out MSD was more right than I thought) :

You need to remove the blue directional plug cap things (shown below) from the MSD female harness side for all cylinders except # 3. The reason you need to remove these is because the shape of the 2018+ factory ones is different and prevents the plug from connecting otherwise. Be careful plugging them in, you could bend a pin!

bluecap.jpg


Now that you removed all of those blue caps from the female MSD plugs with the exception of # 3, you need to rewire the # 3 female MSD side pigtail as shown below. Simply switch over the wires. (The tape was temporary for testing, these will be soldered and heat shrink wrapped)

pigtail.jpg


Now take the harness out to the car. Disconnect all factory pigtails from the coils.

Plug in the male side of the MSD harness to the factory female pigtails you just removed from the coils. Make sure that the purple wires of the factory pigtail line up to the grey wires on the MSD male pigtail. When you get the cylinder # 3, just make sure you continue to line up purple to grey.

At this point all 8 factory pigtails should be connected to the male side of the MSD harness with all purple lines lining up to grey.

Do not connect anything to the coils.

At the MSD box, plug the bundle of black wires to the tan pigtail coming from the MSD box.

At the MSD box, plug the bundle of grey wires to the red pigtail coming from the MSD box.

Ground out the black wire from the 3 pin harness from the MSD box to the chassis.

Turn the car to the on position, but do not start it.

You should see the MSD box red LED light up. If you do, turn the car back off and carefully plug the female ends of the MSD harness to each coil ensuring that where the purple side of the factory harness would have plugged, the grey wire of the MSD harness plugs there. You have already made revisions to the MSD harness to account for cylinder # 3 in the above step.

Now to prepare to test the system before final install, ensure the solid blue wire coming from the 3 pin harness from the MSD box is ready to be grounded out.

Set the 2 step dials to 2,000 rpm.

Start the car and ensure it runs and idles properly. Make a test rev to make sure the car revs over 2,000 rpm.

If so, ground out the solid blue wire coming from the 3 pin harness from the MSD box. The red LED on the MSD box will light up.

Now rev the car up and enjoy your 2 step kicking in at 2,000 rpm. Here's a very fast video of the test I did:



Now you can set the rpm for desired rpm and do a final, more professional install.

In case people are searching: 2018 2 step 2-step two 2019 MSD 87311 2018+ Launch Control A10 10r80
 

Jay-rod427

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Good deal! Side note on switching #3 I would have just removed the pins and swapped them rather than cut and splice/solder the wire back together. A small pick is all it takes to remove the contacts and swap them side to side.

Also you may need to have your tuner tweak the misfire logic as the 2-step is technically a massive misfire, and the stock algorithm picks it up pretty quick when you're at the track real world scenario waiting on the lights.
 
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Ordered a steering wheel button from Motion Raceworks to activate the 2 step.Will complete that install after that arrives.
 

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Good tech! U know MSD will release a unit for 18 up like tomorrow. That's how it always works out LOL
 
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Nearly finished up the 2 step install. I finalized the wiring under the hood, mounted the box, ran the wiring from the box to the steering wheel, and mounted the Motion Raceworks steering wheel button. Just a simple connection away from being done. I'm going to pick up a pigtail so that I can disconnect the wires from each other easily when I pull the dash out.

motionraceworksbutton.jpg
motionraceworksbutton1.jpg
2step1.jpg


The driver side seat mount, kirkey seat, and fat fab roll cage come tmrw!! Time to start gutting the car :)
 
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Big day!

The cage kit arrived, and I am pumped to get this going. Everything looks great. @ben@fatfab has been there with me non-stop with great support and communication. Highly recommended that you start with him. Here are some pics. My wife tested out the seat :)

seatmount.jpg
cagekit.jpg
windownet.jpg
kirkey.jpg

seat model1.jpg
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Whos putting the cage in?

This is easily my favorite build on here!
Bryan, who builds mini-trucks and does certified road racing cages more often. Patience Metal Fab here in MN. Hoping to have it done by the end of Nov.

https://www.facebook.com/patiencemetalfab/

Also, thank you for the kind words! Out here having fun, glad to hear others appreciate it too.
 
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I started to remove the interior of the car today to get ready for the cage work. Does anyone have experience with all of these airbags. Based on the roll cage placement, these curtain airbags are just going to blast into the bars. I'd like to remove them. Anything I need to be aware of?

Appreciate the guidance
 

Notagain

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I could be wrong but id just leave them in. Youll prolly have codes if the car doesnt sense a bag there. Also the bag inflates so fast itll go around the bars anways. In an event theyd go off id rather have bars and bags rather than just the bar.

Dunno just my thoughts. I dont see any reason to remove them. I mean I bet Kevin Hart wished he had bags.............. LOL!!!
 

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Man you are putting in the work!! Good for you man!! Looking good and still following. Maybe when my kids are out I can throw that money at it...
 
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I could be wrong but id just leave them in. Youll prolly have codes if the car doesnt sense a bag there. Also the bag inflates so fast itll go around the bars anways. In an event theyd go off id rather have bars and bags rather than just the bar.

Dunno just my thoughts. I dont see any reason to remove them. I mean I bet Kevin Hart wished he had bags.............. LOL!!!
I hear ya, just wonder if they'll be more of a hassle in the future.
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