winter storage

[bdm219]

I live in CT, so my car goes away at the first talk of snow, usually Late Oct, early Nov. The issue isn't snow or if the roads are dry. The issue is the ice melt they pour all over the roads. It is extremely corrosive, when it dries, it becomes a powder, so the dust goes everywhere and coats everything. You can almost hear it munching on your car, lol. I have a truck, the car is my summer toy.

It kills me to leave the car sitting and not drive it, but when I pull it out in the Spring, it's all worth the wait. Plus, if you have a warm day, 40 deg or so, it gives you the time to install some of the mods you've been buying over the winter.

Fresh oil change, full detail in and out, fill tank, add stabilizer, pump up tires to 40 - 45 lbs, dryer sheets around and inside car, steel wool in the exhaust pipes and pull the battery (no power in garage) and store in the basement. Last but not least, throw the car cover on and be amazed five months later at the pop of color when you pull it off. I don't have a mouse problem, but use the dryer sheets, steel wool and set some mouse traps just in case, better safe than sorry. They can wreck your day in no time.

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[Johnnybee]

Interesting thought. From an oil perspective though what is the difference between the two scenarios you mentioned?

I believe that the idle scenario introduces condensation which is not removed whereas the actual running allows it to be dealt with. You will, of course, receive many opinions, and some are holdovers from a much earlier time (where 3K mile oil changes reside). I never started my stored vehicles, unless I was presented with an opportunity to drive one for an extended period, i.e., not just around the block, but others do. I always changed the oil in the fall immediately before storage but many people I knew did it in the spring. I only pumped the tires up to compensate for the pressure drop in the cold, some people put 40 lbs in. It’s all very unscientific and even if you have the car 20 years and follow the regimen Ford suggests, I'm sure all will be fine...or not. You pays yer money and takes yer chances!

 

[kent0464]

Hi guys, first time mustang 5.0 owner and first time storing a car over the entire winter. Ill be storing my 2018 10 speed PP1 in unheated indoor storage. What are somethings I need to do? Oil change before or after? Fuel stabilizer? How full should I leave the tank? Battery in or out? Trickle charger may not be an option depending on the location I am able to get.

Thanks in advance for any input!

I see you’re in Canada, I’m from Alaska, so I know your unheated storage is going to be cold! Make sure the antifreeze is good! Put the car on jackstands. Either drain the fuel tank or use stabilizer. Pull the spark plugs fog the cylinders, then put the plugs back in. Pull the battery and keep it in the house. If all that is too much then plan on starting the car every week to 10 days.
When summer comes, fuel it back up, put a can of SeaFoam in the oil, idle or run for 20 min or so, then drain the oil while she’s warm to get all the crap out, fill her, check all the fluids air pressure etc and have some spring fun.

 

[Airborne5.0]

Thanks for the replies guys. As the storage date (20 Oct) gets closer I am preping what I need. I changed the oil in April and its only been driven 4,000 KM's (2.5k Miles) since then. The storage location is 1 hour away. Should I change the oil before and after storage? Or would I be ok putting away with the current oil, driving it home in the spring (1 hr) and changing it then?

Thanks guys

 

[Monopoly]

Thanks for the replies guys. As the storage date (20 Oct) gets closer I am preping what I need. I changed the oil in April and its only been driven 4,000 KM's (2.5k Miles) since then. The storage location is 1 hour away. Should I change the oil before and after storage? Or would I be ok putting away with the current oil, driving it home in the spring (1 hr) and changing it then?

Thanks guys

Your probably fine to leave it. I change it right before you store it in October and only drive 4-5k kms a year. Clean oil before storage.

 

[larf37]

https://www.google.ca/amp/s/www.whe...-tips-to-consider-for-winter-car-storage/amp/

 

[Airborne5.0]

Your probably fine to leave it. I change it right before you store it in October and only drive 4-5k kms a year. Clean oil before storage.

Thanks for your reply

 

[GTP]

I follow most of the recommendations of others, except I just follow the oil minder for oil changes. I wired in a pigtail to fusebox +12v and ground at the right side shock tower so that I can plug in my cheap HF battery tender.

Also, since I have track wheels and daily wheels, I put the track wheels on before storage in my unheated garage. Tire Rack told me that I don't have to worry about cracking summer tires out in the backyard storage barn, but I don't want to take any chances.

I also call my insurance company and convert my policy to "storage", which pro-rates out to about $10/month!

I wanted to replace my rusted out 2001 minivan for a nicer winter vehicle, but it runs by throwing a few cheap parts at it occasionally. Besides I put that money saved, plus my 2016 trade-in to my awesome new 2019. So yeah, it's feast or famine with my two very different vehicles. Winter sucks, period.

 

[Monopoly]

I follow most of the recommendations of others.

Thats exact it. I got my winter storage tips from a guy who owns 50 Classic pre-1970s cars in a museum out in Nfld lol.

 

[HiTekExec]

I drive it through winter and store it outside overnight.

and run summer tires year 'round

 

[Airborne5.0]

Hi guys, thanks all of the info contributed to my post. As of now I am planning on:

- Full tank of highest octane gas I can get with full stabilizer
- Carpet pads for tires
- Air pressure change, what do you guys put the air pressure at, your numbers?
- Bounce sheets
- Remove the battery and store in my house


Question about the windows. For those that remove the battery, what do you do about the windows? Do you roll them down slightly? With no battery in how can I open the door, to open to the engine bay to put the battery back in?

 

[lacanteen]

If you leave the doors unlocked they will open fine. The little jog it does with battery power is to help seal the window. You can unlock the door manually with the key found inside the key fob if you must lock the door.

 

[Airborne5.0]

If you leave the doors unlocked they will open fine. The little jog it does with battery power is to help seal the window. You can unlock the door manually with the key found inside the key fob if you must lock the door.

Thanks!

 

[Nexus]

Question about the windows. For those that remove the battery, what do you do about the windows? Do you roll them down slightly? With no battery in how can I open the door, to open to the engine bay to put the battery back in?

I don't know about the 15+, but pre 15 if the battery was dead/removed and the windows were fully up you would be able to open the doors, but not close them again.

The trick was to keep the door open when disconnecting the battery. This keeps the window in the short drop state, and allows you to open and close the door without it being in the sealed state.

 

[Airborne5.0]

I don't know about the 15+, but pre 15 if the battery was dead/removed and the windows were fully up you would be able to open the doors, but not close them again.

The trick was to keep the door open when disconnecting the battery. This keeps the window in the short drop state, and allows you to open and close the door without it being in the sealed state.

Great point, I will do this. Thanks!

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