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Procharger H.O. e85 700 rwhp goal HELP

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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Although I was kind of hoping for a little more of a confidence booster! Haha ;)

It seems like so many live well in to the 700s. But I guess with my luck I’ll be the one who blows it :/

If it really is such a gamble and there is little to no “ you should be totally fine” kind of opinion.. it kind of makes me hesitate pulling to trigger on a lot of this stuff.

Hmmm...
 

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Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Although I was kind of hoping for a little more of a confidence booster! Haha ;)

It seems like so many live well in to the 700s. But I guess with my luck I’ll be the one who blows it :/

If it really is such a gamble and there is little to no “ you should be totally fine” kind of opinion.. it kind of makes me hesitate pulling to trigger on a lot of this stuff.

Hmmm...
I think you will find that far more people successfully go FI with these cars than those who blow up. The engine is fairly robust and Ford even said that they designed the Coyote with a power adder in mind. (I'm sure you can dig up the article in here somewhere). If you want a fast car that sounds amazing and looks great then go for it. If you want reliability then buy a Honda Accord and drive in the slow lane. 700 wheel hp and reliability generally aren't spoken in the same sentence. That's just the name of the game. Fast, reliable, affordable. Choose two
 
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I think you will find that far more people successfully go FI with these cars than those who blow up. The engine is fairly robust and Ford even said that they designed the Coyote with a power adder in mind. (I'm sure you can dig up the article in here somewhere). If you want a fast car that sounds amazing and looks great then go for it. If you want reliability then buy a Honda Accord and drive in the slow lane. 700 wheel hp and reliability generally aren't spoken in the same sentence. That's just the name of the game. Fast, reliable, affordable. Choose two
So true!
 

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With some common sense with caution you can greatly reduce your chances of hurting the motor. Keep up with oil changes, good filter, don’t do looong pulls, don’t do back to back pulls if possible, keep up with Injector, don’t beat the car on 93 oct, add some octane booster for safety.
 

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With some common sense with caution you can greatly reduce your chances of hurting the motor. Keep up with oil changes, good filter, don’t do looong pulls, don’t do back to back pulls if possible, keep up with Injector, don’t beat the car on 93 oct, add some octane booster for safety.
Yeah i would hope I wouldn’t be an idiot and beat on the car... I’m just doing amsoil as 5w20 and amsoil filter currently.. every 4K miles or so. Sound like the right idea?

What do you consider a looong pull? Haha

I plan on running e85 so I would think there’s a pretty good safety margin there...but I could be wrong.
 
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Long pulls = 160++.

I like the FRPP820s
Yikes... I don’t plan on doing that... Im never able to get to the track... or “Mexico” haha

I used to use the FRPP820s but then I vaguely remember reading something somewhere... I think it was that oil guy on svtperformance about the amsoil filters being really good... maybe I should switch back. If I remember right they flow a little better.
 
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what do you think would be the better buy for a procharger setup? - 2018 intake or mak inlet?
 

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what do you think would be the better buy for a procharger setup? - 2018 intake or mak inlet?
Different mods. Best is both. But the 2018 intake will give you more than the Mak inlet
 

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Im running a p1sc ho with 3.5 pulley. Mak inlet dw95,catless longtubes full 3 inch exhaust,bap. Opg/cs made 660whp on 93 tuned by lund. Thinking about 18 manifold and pulleying down to 3.4 pulley to hit 700. No e85 by me.
 

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Isn’t the p1sc max rpm 62k?

Here’s another question: if I’m getting Lund to tune it how can he see boost pressure? Do I need to buy a boost box so that it can be datalogged? Or is there another way?
The P1X is ideal for applications up to 800 horsepower and utilizes a 90mm inducer. It can flow up to 1,275 cfm and has a maximum RPM of 65,000.
I recommend the Boost+ box Lund sells . Works great with the Ngauge.
 

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what do you think would be the better buy for a procharger setup? - 2018 intake or mak inlet?
Definitely the intake manifold. It seems that procharger has updated their intake and is no longer the smaller silicone version, but is a hard plastic tube with a larger filter. I wouldn't think the MAK intake is much of an improvement, certainly not $350 dollars worth. The 18 manifold however shows solid gains over the 15-17, especially with boost.
 

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This is the easiest power goal I have ever heard of. :)
You have a few ways of doing this.

10psi (pulley swap)
And a good tune with E50 or better, and you have an easy 700+ rwhp

If you don't already have our race inlet (standard on all systems for last few years)
Its a nice addition, just to have...(its hard plastic)
Its the same inlet I use for the 1000+ HP mustangs I tune with P1X and D1X's

You can do the 2018 intake manifold, to help you make power well up to 8,000rpm
However, unless you have billet OPG, I would suggest keeping the RPM's to 7,300/7,400
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