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Procharger H.O. e85 700 rwhp goal HELP

Bmaughan

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So I currently have a procharger H.O. kit (p1sc head) installed running the 4” pulley at about 7lbs with stock intake and exhaust. I’m getting about 530 to the wheels.
I currently working on switching over to e85 and installing log tubes and the 2018 intake.

I’m trying to figure out what pulley size I need to meet my power goals. Any ideas?

This is a 2015 gt by the way.

If Ive got 7lbs with a stock exhaust and 4” pulley I’m thinking I will probably need a 3.5” pulley to get 10lbs after the header and intake swap.

Someone tell me if I’m wrong before I buy the wrong pulley! haha

Thanks!
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SolarFlare

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Yea 3.5 should work, green belt, not a pro-foo BoV, free flowing exhaust and an intake manifold with a return style fuel system on E85.

A Mak inlet will help it breathe better as you pulley down as well
 
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Bmaughan

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Thanks for the help! I was told the pro flo valve was good to about 13-14psi. Is that not true in your experience?

Regarding the inlet... has the procharger inlet been discovered to be a bottleneck? I didn’t realize this either. What does the mak inlet bring to the table that the procharger one doesn’t?

Thanks again for all the help!!
 

ahl395

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Thanks for the help! I was told the pro flo valve was good to about 13-14psi. Is that not true in your experience?

Regarding the inlet... has the procharger inlet been discovered to be a bottleneck? I didn’t realize this either. What does the mak inlet bring to the table that the procharger one doesn’t?

Thanks again for all the help!!
The procharger inlet has made solid power, but consistent power gains have been found with the MAK. It is larger diameter pipe and a larger filter.

3.5" pulley is your best bet. If you havent already bought it I would suggest trying the griptec one to fight any possible belt slip, as well as the Gates HD green belt. Rev to 7800+ That pulley should get you between 13-14psi and over 750whp.
 

whatsup62

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Whos tuning the car ?
In AZ im assuming you are currently on a 91 oct tune?
 

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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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Id love to keep boost numbers as low as possible... that’s why I’m switching to e85. How much boost do you think I’ll need to reach the 700 goal with e85?
I was thinking I would need about 10-11lbs but I could be wrong.. I thought a 3.5 pulley would take me to about that number.

Yeah I’m going back and forth between a local shop that has good reputation (dynocomp) or doing a remote tune with Lund.

What do you guys think?
 

ahl395

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Id love to keep boost numbers as low as possible... that’s why I’m switching to e85. How much boost do you think I’ll need to reach the 700 goal with e85?
I was thinking I would need about 10-11lbs but I could be wrong.. I thought a 3.5 pulley would take me to about that number.

Yeah I’m going back and forth between a local shop that has good reputation (dynocomp) or doing a remote tune with Lund.

What do you guys think?
I would think 11-12psi to hit 700, depending on the timing in the tune (and the dyno). So you may want a larger pulley than 3.5 and/or lower redline.

I vote Lund for tuning.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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I would think 11-12psi to hit 700, depending on the timing in the tune (and the dyno). So you may want a larger pulley than 3.5 and/or lower redline.

I vote Lund for tuning.

So what pulley size would you recommend for those boost numbers?
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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The redline talk begs the question... and it’s one I’ve been wondering a while...
how fast are procharger guys spinning? Assuming opg/sprocket upgrade...
 

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Thanks for the help! I was told the pro flo valve was good to about 13-14psi. Is that not true in your experience?

Regarding the inlet... has the procharger inlet been discovered to be a bottleneck? I didn’t realize this either. What does the mak inlet bring to the table that the procharger one doesn’t?

Thanks again for all the help!!
Yes I gained a little over 1psi when I removed the proflo. The Mak inlet is 4” vs 3.5 for standard inlet. Filter is probably almost double the surface area. If you search you’ll find their thread here with pictures of both. Go 3.5. If it hits 700 earlier in the rpm then just keep the RPMs lower.
 

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Since you guys were talking about the Mak inlet tube for the Procharger. Wondering if there is any solution/improvements to be made to the outlet hose, the one that is collapsed about half was to fit the head unit above the body sheet metal. I know it works the way it is, but can’t help but think since everyone makes it sound like the Mak inlet tube is such an improvement that the outlet has to be making things worse than the Procharger inlet ever did.
 

whatsup62

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+1 for Lund
When I was on the P1SC-1 HO kit I hit 701 rwhp on E with the 3.7" pulley. That was at 10.3 psi at 7300 rpm.
I had stage 2 IC, MAK intake, long tubes no cats, 3" full exhaust, ID1000s and SaiLi fuel system.
Lund will not tune on E without a return style system.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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I agree with the outlet tube suggestion...

On the bov is the issue that it simply can’t stay closed under that much boost so you start losing it that way? I’m just trying to understand why you would gain a pound from the BOV.

Also, I’m leaning towards having Lund tune the car as well but there are no Lund “dealer” dynos in my town... how do you all have Lund tune your cars? Just data logging?

I’m a little nervous that at this power level it could get a little out of hand pretty quick and I won’t know it/ I won’t have a clear picture of how much power I’m making.
 
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Bmaughan

Bmaughan

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+1 for Lund
When I was on the P1SC-1 HO kit I hit 701 rwhp on E with the 3.7" pulley. That was at 10.3 psi at 7300 rpm.
I had stage 2 IC, MAK intake, long tubes no cats, 3" full exhaust, ID1000s and SaiLi fuel system.
Lund will not tune on E without a return style system.
That’s perfect! That’s essentially exactly what I’m going for! Already ordered the sai li kit.
 

SolarFlare

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I agree with the outlet tube suggestion...

On the bov is the issue that it simply can’t stay closed under that much boost so you start losing it that way? I’m just trying to understand why you would gain a pound from the BOV.

Also, I’m leaning towards having Lund tune the car as well but there are no Lund “dealer” dynos in my town... how do you all have Lund tune your cars? Just data logging?

I’m a little nervous that at this power level it could get a little out of hand pretty quick and I won’t know it/ I won’t have a clear picture of how much power I’m making.
If you ever get one in your hand, point it towards sun and look thru it.
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