Alignment Results

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Just recently installed Steeda suspension and received the following alignment results. The shop wanted me to drive it for a few hundred miles and come back at no cost to readjust. Seemed a little far out but since they would adjust in a few hundred miles for free I figured it was close enough. Is it normal for the suspension to settle and need adjusting later?
Steeda sport progressive springs (1.125" front, 1" back drop)
Active shocks and struts
IRS brace, toe and vertical link

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Image attached

 

[Linkster1666]

This is the reason for Caster/Camber plates.

 

[o-man]

Wonder why they didn't adjust the rear camber? Looks good otherwise

 

[moarhorsepower]

Too aggressive camber for street use (front/rear). Steer ahead could be closer to 0.0. Rear toe is too high as well IIRC from BMR's recommendations.

People can't say it enough but camber/caster plates really do make the difference for the front.

 

[Jetnoise]

Just recently installed Steeda suspension and received the following alignment results. The shop wanted me to drive it for a few hundred miles and come back at no cost to readjust. Seemed a little far out but since they would adjust in a few hundred miles for free I figured it was close enough. Is it normal for the suspension to settle and need adjusting later?
Steeda sport progressive springs (1.125" front, 1" back drop)
Active shocks and struts
IRS brace, toe and vertical link

What did steeda tell yo after you contacted them?

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Your rear toe and camber are too high, and both of these are adjustable. Rear toe should be about 0.12 each and the rear camber would benefit at -1.6 or so each (not the end of the world if it stays high, but should be at least symmetrical). Thrust angle should always be 0.

The front camber is where I like it for the way I drive, of course you would need plates or bolts to adjust anyway.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yup agreed, front camber is good (its not adjustable anyway, but ~2 degrees is a reasonable sporty number), but have them hit 0 front toe when you go back.

Rear camber continues to confound alignment techs, but its there and you definitely need to have it dialed back a bit. Your rear toe is a bit much, its on the safe side but a fraction less would be a good goal. They’ll have to touch it after they touch rear camber anyway.

Don’t expect it to “settle” much, a smidge possibly as the springs find a happy place in their seats. Instead, you need to “clock the bushings” or have the suspension joints which include rubber bushings loosened and then retightened while compressed at ride height, and an alignment rack is usually the best place to do that. The clocking will allow those pivots to rest properly at ride height without a bunch of preload twist from bushings which were locked at the factory at your old ride height. Without that step they’ll stay bound and riding high or inconsistent indefinitely.

 

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Appreciate the feedback everyone. I do think the front camber is a little much but can live with it. I am going to have them get -1.5 in the rear. Is that about where it should be generally for street setup. Total rear toe under 30 I assume with as close to 20 as possible. Not a daily driver as it's my weekend joy ride.

 

[yote41]

Glad i found this thread im taking my car in to get re aligned this week. I have steeda springs on. What would be ideal alignment specs all around?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Appreciate the feedback everyone. I do think the front camber is a little much but can live with it. I am going to have them get -1.5 in the rear. Is that about where it should be generally for street setup. Total rear toe under 30 I assume with as close to 20 as possible. Not a daily driver as it's my weekend joy ride.

Yeah 1.5 in the rear is a good place to be.

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