They said it dynoed at 780hp. When someone says that, that's wheels unless I'm missing something.Don’t think it’s WHP. More likely flywheel figures so about 680 wheel.
I’m at 640whp and still on standard headers and exhaust. Some long tubes and high flow cats will get me up at the high 600’s so it’s realistic.
Not really no just bits that I have posted.
No, it's often misunderstood, but in Europe and the UK the dynos are configured to estimate brake horsepower, so the 780hp is not a wheel figure. Also, dynojet is not popular in Europe, the UK or Australia and tends to read quite high compared to the units we use over here. In Europe we often joke about "American horsepower" because the Dyno plots all look very generous but guys in Europe dynoing 15% less on our brand dynos run the same times.They said it dynoed at 780hp. When someone says that, that's wheels unless I'm missing something.
Changing those parts won't get you that much wheels HP as you aren't resttricted too much when running only 10psi. Can't run anything more than 10 psi on pump gas. That seems to be the general consensus amongst all the tuners I have spoken to. Which only leaves you to play around with the timing.
From the reputable tuners I have spoken to, everyone has said that the issue isn't the parts. It's the pump gas and fuel quality.
For instance. KB making 950 wheels on an auto gen 2 running stock internals on E85 with LTHs.
The only way to get close to 700 wheels is to run race gas in the coyote.
So I have no idea how people are claiming these numbers when the limiting factor isn't whats under the hood but rather what's in the fuel tank.
Point being, you could have all the bells and whistles under the hood but a stock coyote with OPG's and CGS is not giving you anything more than 650ish at the wheels in the real world.
That's the brick wall.