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30,000 Mile, No Catch Can Report

Rod Schneider

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I just did my 30,000 mile oil change (2016 EcoBoost). Ever since I bought the car new, I've heard that I "need" a catch can to prevent intake valve deposits. I almost bought one when I first got the car, but decided to perform an experiment to see what would happen if I left the crank case vent system totally stock. So, every 10,000 miles, I pull the intake manifold (really easy to do) and take a look at the intake valves to see if crud is building up on them. Today was my third time taking a look. There are some minimal deposits on the back side of the valves. Compared to how they looked 10,000 miles ago, they have changed very little. At this rate, I should be somewhere north of 100,000 miles before it becomes an issue. I'll keep taking a look every 10,000 miles to see. The engine is totally stock, except for a Roush cold air intake (I know, not really needed.....). I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W30. It gets changed every 5,000 miles. I don't beat on the car every time I take it out, but I do "enjoy" the car on a regular basis. I'm burning 93 octane gas from the local QuickTrip station, and have been using that from the time I bought the car. It mostly sees driving on country roads with a good 20 mile interstate run a couple of times a week. I don't baby it, but I don't abuse it.......
Just my observations--your mileage may vary.........
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CurtisH

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Thanks for this post. I’ve currently got 29,000 on my EcoBoost. No catch can, but it still runs great.

Disclaimer: I’m not bashing catch cans. :)
 

shogun32

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but you don't understand. youtube influencers without engineering degrees nor ASE certificates declared that it was a problem. QED it must be so.

Expect a strongly worded cease and desist letter from purveyors of the devices demanding you retract your fact-based and repeated observational reporting. /joke
 

Cardude99

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I just did my 30,000 mile oil change (2106 EcoBoost). Ever since I bought the car new, I've heard that I "need" a catch can to prevent intake valve deposits. I almost bought one when I first got the car, but decided to perform an experiment to see what would happen if I left the crank case vent system totally stock. So, every 10,000 miles, I pull the intake manifold (really easy to do) and take a look at the intake valves to see if crud is building up on them. Today was my third time taking a look. There are some minimal deposits on the back side of the valves. Compared to how they looked 10,000 miles ago, they have changed very little. At this rate, I should be somewhere north of 100,000 miles before it becomes an issue. I'll keep taking a look every 10,000 miles to see. The engine is totally stock, except for a Roush cold air intake (I know, not really needed.....). I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W30. It gets changed every 5,000 miles. I don't beat on the car every time I take it out, but I do "enjoy" the car on a regular basis. I'm burning 93 octane gas from the local QuickTrip station, and have been using that from the time I bought the car. It mostly sees driving on country roads with a good 20 mile interstate run a couple of times a week. I don't baby it, but I don't abuse it.......
Just my observations--your mileage may vary.........
This is really nice to know. Thank you for posting. I've been told to get one before 30k cause that's when everything starts getting bad with deposits. Glad it's not the case. Like you I figure a good synthetic oil and regular changes and maintenance will help keep the engine clean.
 

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Cobra Jet

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Thanks for posting your findings and I’m one who believes if a CC was important enough to be on the EB, it would have been factory installed.

But I’m even more impressed you have a 2106 Mustang EB! :rockon:
 

Thatguy

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I just did my 30,000 mile oil change (2106 EcoBoost).
That's because you have one of the future cars that doesn't require a catch can :)

I have a Mishimoto can that I haven't installed yet. I keep reading out other brands and don't know if all of them work fine or if some other brands are much better. I may or may not install one.
 
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Rod Schneider

Rod Schneider

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Thanks for posting your findings and I’m one who believes if a CC was important enough to be on the EB, it would have been factory installed.

But I’m even more impressed you have a 2106 Mustang EB! :rockon:
Hmmm....... even I didn't know just how new it was!!! Looks like I fat fingered that one :)
 

BlackandBlue

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The reason they are not factory installed is because it would add to the maintenance schedule. While they are not needed ford would have loved to put one on factory. Ford would have put on a complex catch can with a sensor and monitor. This add cost and complexity also. There are some big risk with simple(not ford) undumped catch cans suck as hydro lock if they were ever to burp into the intake when full.

The early EcoBoost(not Mustang) systems had terrible growing pains. The people who had the most problems were slow Grandma drivers that never pushed their cars. High Rpm runs help to “clean” things out.

You will eventually end up with deposits. The questions are how long and how much. I catch can won’t change this. Maybe slow it down but know the hell knows.

I don’t think a catch can will make a noticeable difference either way. I put one on my car as a health checking device. It catches about the same amount of oil every 2,500 miles but if it ever does have more I know something is wrong with my engine.
 

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TicTocTach

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I read on an internet forum that catching oil was one thing, but reducing the oily vapor was also a reason to get a CC - prevents some form of pre-ignition that kills engines, or something like that. I'm not sure how to tell if a CC is improving anything from that perspective, either.
 

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My Ford Performance catch can caught about a shot glass full in the last 3,000 miles. It wasn't a lot, but I rather have it caught, than have it baking on the backs of my valves. Could easily go a full OCI (5,000 miles) before emptying.
 

3oostdmstng

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I just did my 30,000 mile oil change (2016 EcoBoost). Ever since I bought the car new, I've heard that I "need" a catch can to prevent intake valve deposits. I almost bought one when I first got the car, but decided to perform an experiment to see what would happen if I left the crank case vent system totally stock. So, every 10,000 miles, I pull the intake manifold (really easy to do) and take a look at the intake valves to see if crud is building up on them. Today was my third time taking a look. There are some minimal deposits on the back side of the valves. Compared to how they looked 10,000 miles ago, they have changed very little. At this rate, I should be somewhere north of 100,000 miles before it becomes an issue. I'll keep taking a look every 10,000 miles to see. The engine is totally stock, except for a Roush cold air intake (I know, not really needed.....). I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W30. It gets changed every 5,000 miles. I don't beat on the car every time I take it out, but I do "enjoy" the car on a regular basis. I'm burning 93 octane gas from the local QuickTrip station, and have been using that from the time I bought the car. It mostly sees driving on country roads with a good 20 mile interstate run a couple of times a week. I don't baby it, but I don't abuse it.......
Just my observations--your mileage may vary.........
I'm 100 miles away from hitting 70,000 miles in my EB. No catch can either.

Only issue I had at around 30k mi was about the canister purge valve - due to being stuck open. It never did it again when replaced.
 

jdsfly

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To prevent LSPI and carbon deposits, you could also use Top Tier gas and a full synthetic oil that is API rated SN+. Mobil 1 and a few others are now rated SN+. I've searched extensively trying to find an Ecoboost Mustang, without a catch can, that has had any significant carbon build up on the intake valves. I haven't been able
to find one, and I've talked to a couple of owners with over 100k miles.
 
 




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