OEM Brake Fluid - have you boiled them?

[NoXiDe]

I was getting my tech inspection completed earlier today (1st time ever) and the brake fluid discussion came up. He was pushing MOTUL 600 and he was trying to educate me that it wouldn't be safe for me or others at the track if the brakes failed due to boiling issues. I told him I was aware and that I'd change them out to MOTUL 660 after the event and that I thought I was in the clear with the OEM Brake Fluid because I had just changed them not more than 2,500 miles ago with strictly street time.

He continued to push MOTUL 600 and asked another coworker who stated 600 was better for the street and track use while the 660 was strictly for racing.

I also mentioned the track that I was planning on attending and he was then even more concerned as it's a hard braking and technical track versus a track like Road Atlanta that is easier on the brakes. Truthfully, I can't fandom that a GT350 built for track oriented purpose would not be able to handle the track from the factory. Side note, he was also surprised to hear that the brake fluid from the factory is Synthetic; humph - time's have changed was his response.

Something else that caught me off-guard was that he was trying to push 5 bottles of MOTUL versus the 750 ml which is 1 bottle and 1/2. I told him that I thought that was weird that it would require 5 bottles but didn't question his knowledge. He said he'd do a complete flush and there's usually more in the lines. Anyhow...

Let's discuss, educate, and make all of us better GT350 owners.

2 things I'd like out of this thread.
1) Have you boiled your brakes on OEM fluid.
2) Was the tech full a S@#+? - this is okay because without pulling up the shop manual or knowing the platform your only able to share your past experience so I'm cool with that.

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[honeybadger]

Upsell, upsell, upselll

OEM fluid is fine for track use - it's DOT4.

That said, I've boiled it as well as RBF600F.

For me, it's SRF or nothing. That stuff is STOUT

 

[Hack]

I didn't boil my stock fluid, but I only attended 1 track event with the stock fluid. And at the time my 2016 tech pack car didn't have coolers. It got hot really fast.

Then I went to RBF600, installed coolers and everything was great.

I didn't want to find out the limits of the stock fluid. Brakes are pretty important on a track day! I bought myself a pressure bleeder and changed the fluid at home. Easy.

 

[Demonic]

5 bottles to flush the lines?! Maybe if you were trying to flush a toilet.

 

[NoXiDe]

5 bottles to flush the lines?! Maybe if you were trying to flush a toilet.

LOL, I almost laughed out loud when he said it. I had to contain myself.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I have always used the ATE brand - started using it years ago in my prior BMWs and stuck with it ever since for the Mustangs.

Extremely good quality product, well known on a lot of forums and they have a specific flavor for racing applications (go to bottom of the linked page and see the “racing” fluid):

http://www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/

 

[JAJ]

I've used ATE Typ 200 and OEM DOT 4 for track use and not had any problems. The thing is that the massive GT350 brakes manage heat very well - the huge aluminum calipers and the thirty pound rotors keep the peak temperatures under control. The lighter and more performancy your brakes are, the more you need high temp fluids.

As for quantity - I do a flush with just over a liter of fluid. I push about 300 cc through each caliper, going from right rear - left rear - right front - left front. I do the inside pistons first, then the outside and then a couple more pumps on the inside. I have a brake fluid moisture tester and I check the fluid coming out to make sure it's moisture free.

 

[tedj101]

Upsell, upsell, upselll

OEM fluid is fine for track use - it's DOT4.

That said, I've boiled it as well as RBF600F.

For me, it's SRF or nothing. That stuff is STOUT

I agree with this post except the OEM brake fluid is only safe when pretty fresh. Once it gets enough water in it the boiling point goes way down. Just use Castrol SRF. It is awesome and you can forget about boiling problems - even if you get too much water in the fluid.

<TED>

 

[MikeR397]

Upsell, upsell, upselll

OEM fluid is fine for track use - it's DOT4.

That said, I've boiled it as well as RBF600F.

For me, it's SRF or nothing. That stuff is STOUT

I always use SRF as well. Did a full flush this spring before track season, have about 15 track days on the same brake fluid, no bleeding or anything. Have four days left planned within 3 weeks, will do a flush next spring just like this one.

One 1l bottle can flush the entire 750ml system iirc. For $70 and to just do it once a year, it’s been a no brainer for me. The wet boiling point is exceptionally high.

 

[slikk66]

I'm heading to my first HPDE in a couple months, I was wondering about this brake fluid situation.

If I simply take it in and request Castrol SRF is that a one time thing and no need to change it again until a major service? I plan to have the camber plates installed at the dealer before the track date, I'd probably just have them do it then.

 

[MikeR397]

I'm heading to my first HPDE in a couple months, I was wondering about this brake fluid situation.

If I simply take it in and request Castrol SRF is that a one time thing and no need to change it again until a major service? I plan to have the camber plates installed at the dealer before the track date, I'd probably just have them do it then.

If you are doing just an event or two id just stay with oem. See my above post for my experience with SRF though if you want to track more.

For track use, even with SRF, 1 year is probably the max duration. Otherwise oem road use only you can do like every 3+ years depending on crazy miles. You pretty much can’t boil on the street ever.

 

[honeybadger]

I agree with this post except the OEM brake fluid is only safe when pretty fresh. Once it gets enough water in it the boiling point goes way down. Just use Castrol SRF. It is awesome and you can forget about boiling problems - even if you get too much water in the fluid.

<TED>

Very good point. My points above are under the assumption one is flushing the fluid regularly

I always use SRF as well. Did a full flush this spring before track season, have about 15 track days on the same brake fluid, no bleeding or anything. Have four days left planned within 3 weeks, will do a flush next spring just like this one.

One 1l bottle can flush the entire 750ml system iirc. For $70 and to just do it once a year, it’s been a no brainer for me. The wet boiling point is exceptionally high.

Good IMHO to have an extra bottle on hand just in case (leaking cap, nut loosens up, etc. So for the folks flushing to SRF, I recommend getting 2 bottles.

 

[Tank]

Good IMHO to have an extra bottle on hand just in case (leaking cap, nut loosens up, etc. So for the folks flushing to SRF, I recommend getting 2 bottles.*

*You just want to be smart about holding on to unsealed bottles of any brake fluid due to its hygroscopic properties.

Back to original programming...

 

[nastang87xx]

I'd say stock fluid is fine for about 95% of people out there. If you were wheel to wheel'ing, that would be different.

 

[THX 138]

I've used ATE Typ 200 and OEM DOT 4 for track use and not had any problems. The thing is that the massive GT350 brakes manage heat very well - the huge aluminum calipers and the thirty pound rotors keep the peak temperatures under control. The lighter and more performancy your brakes are, the more you need high temp fluids.

+1 on ATE Typ 200. I use it in both of my track cars, and I've never had an issue. While I'm sure it's not as robust as Castrol SRF, it is a WHOLE lot cheaper.

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