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Roush05

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I am doing my datalogging for Lund and noticed that my knock stays at zero the entire logging session. Is that normal or is knock normally enabled in these logs? Attached is the log in question.


Edit: I updated the firmware and took it for another ride. It still stayed at zero 95 percent of the time but for split seconds it would go negative or slightly positive. This may be normal but I'm new to logging and I thought it would be constantly fluctuating like other readings.
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JPSTANG

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Yes knock should be enabled, that looks like an idle log with light driving, you will see it move around more when you go 100 percent pedal running the rpms up and puttting some load on the engine. Just hope it dosent go full retard +10 like mine (centri install)... since fixed alot of the issues with that though. Lund is good and they will keep you safe.
 
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Roush05

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Yes knock should be enabled, that looks like an idle log with light driving, you will see it move around more when you go 100 percent pedal running the rpms up and puttting some load on the engine. Just hope it dosent go full retard +10 like mine (centri install)... since fixed alot of the issues with that though. Lund is good and they will keep you safe.
Gotcha. Yes, this was an idle/mild driving log just to get started. I am centri as well but I don't think I have any sources of false knock and I am running a can of boostane per tank of gas so I should be around 102 octane. So hopefully everything is good. How in the world did you get all the way to +10 lol?
 

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Went there many times, with frustration. Semi Solid motor mounts now cause of headers hitting the frame rail, one piece drive shaft, manual tranny noise and various other things. I think the way the pro charger mounts transfers a lot of noise to the sensors as well, but there's no way to prove it. Have you done wide open pulls yet? Man a whole can per fill that's a lot, I only do an once per gallon. I have tried a whole can just to make sure with the same results.
 
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Roush05

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Went there many times, with frustration. Semi Solid motor mounts now cause of headers hitting the frame rail, one piece drive shaft, manual tranny noise and various other things. I think the way the pro charger mounts transfers a lot of noise to the sensors as well, but there's no way to prove it. Have you done wide open pulls yet? Man a whole can per fill that's a lot, I only do an once per gallon. I have tried a whole can just to make sure with the same results.
No, wide open pulls will probably be in a couple days. I will hopefully not have any of those issues but I guess I will find out. The difference in one ounce per gallon and 2 ounces per gallon (1 bottle) is like 100 to 102 octane or something. Depending on how much of a difference it makes i may do half a can next time. I'm not DDing it anymore so the cost isnt nearly as much of a factor. What kind of headers do you have? I have the Pypes stepped headers and they look to have pretty good clearance.
 

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JPSTANG

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No, wide open pulls will probably be in a couple days. I will hopefully not have any of those issues but I guess I will find out. The difference in one ounce per gallon and 2 ounces per gallon (1 bottle) is like 100 to 102 octane or something. Depending on how much of a difference it makes i may do half a can next time. I'm not DDing it anymore so the cost isnt nearly as much of a factor. What kind of headers do you have? I have the Pypes stepped headers and they look to have pretty good clearance.
That's why I only went 1 ounce, the difference is negligible in the long run and that stuff ain't cheap. I daily as much as I can though in the summer so I go through a case a season now. BBK's for the headers, they had good clearance for the A/C bolt on the passenger side but come really close to the frame rail. I have pics on here in another one of my posts.
 
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Roush05

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I only have a quarter inch tops on the AC bolt but the rest looks good. I'll try to find your post but that's a lot to go through lol.


Edit: found it, wow the fitment is much different. Here is what mine looks like. Not great pics as it was night and I was trying to focus on the bolt but you can tell a difference in how they fit. Angle makes them look closer to the frame than they are.

IMG_20190914_205027.jpg



IMG_20190914_205035.jpg
 

jmeiers

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0.00 and negative is good. If it goes negative, then it is adding that much timing. You never want to see it go above 0.00.

I have my color for KNOCKR setup up so it is Green for 0.00 or less. Anything above 0.00, it goes Red.
 
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Roush05

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Gotcha. I've been doing more datalogging today and knock is looking good. I guess I just didn't expect it to stay at zero most of the time. It's hitting -3.994 at wot, car is liking the boostane.
 

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The first time I looked at logs while getting my car tuned on E85 my heart dropped when I saw numbers like -8.00 and -10.00 in the mid-range and some negative -1.00 and -2.00 on the top end. Then I learned through searching on the forums here that meant timing was being added. After sending in those logs for revisions, they tuned those areas away and now my car stays at 0.00 or slightly negative.
 

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Roush05

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I gotcha. Yeah, I knew negative was good, positive bad and I honestly expected some false knock due to the headers but didn't see any. I just thought that I would see the value constantly fluctuate like AFR, RPM, etc.
 

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Question for those of you that recently bought Lund tunes. I didn’t have to give any pcm, strategy, or vin. Only thing I reported was the device number when ordering. I thought this was a little odd but the tuning here is probably a little different than the diesel tuning I am used to. Anyways, is tha normal?
 

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Question for those of you that recently bought Lund tunes. I didn’t have to give any pcm, strategy, or vin. Only thing I reported was the device number when ordering. I thought this was a little odd but the tuning here is probably a little different than the diesel tuning I am used to. Anyways, is tha normal?
There's no way for them to tell what your car is just by the device number. I would expect them to contact you for that info, and if not I would talk to them before uploading it to your car.
 

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There's no way for them to tell what your car is just by the device number. I would expect them to contact you for that info, and if not I would talk to them before uploading it to your car.
I ordered it off the site so I did answer the drop downs as in perf. Pack or not, auto or manual, etc. But no vin, pcm, or tcm stuff
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