My Custom Audio Build

[Bigdrumma22]

To the OP, do you think an 8" sub would fit from the top of the deck without major modification or do you think it would have to be mounted from the bottom as you did? Thanks for any info.

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[ForTehNguyen]

its bottom mounted because the holes for the factory speakers are too small for the magnet to fit on a top mounting. Unless you want to do a ton of cutting....

 

[Bigdrumma22]

Ok, yeah I'm hoping to not cut everything up. I ordered MDF rings so I can mount them using your method if need be.

 

[StangTime]

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to give anyone attempting this install a heads up and to suggest you use a different sub. The Dayton LS10-44 10" low profile drivers are not designed for infinite baffle applications. These have a Vas spec of 30.8 liters (1 cu ft) They are meant to be used in a sealed box with .5 cu ft of volume behind each of them.

 

[rome5982]

Awesome post! My 2020 is on order with the 401A 9 speaker system. I plan on doing the IB dual subs in the rear deck with aftermarket amp and tap high level signal from the front 6.5 woofers for the amp input. I also want to change the front 3.5 mids with the Scanspeak mids but use the existing amp and stock signal conditioning. Not positive what the stock impedance is for the front mids ( but the Scanspeak is available in either 4 or 8 ohms so I should be ok either way). I will see what this does before determining what to do (if anything) with replacing the pillar tweets and/or the front center mid. My questions are the following -

1. If I match the stock impedance for the mids, do you think the stock amp will be able to drive the new scanspeak with better results?

2. How have your Dayton Audio subs been holding up? Still getting enough bass from them and good blend with the rest of the system?

 

[Rash]

Awesome post! My 2020 is on order with the 401A 9 speaker system. I plan on doing the IB dual subs in the rear deck with aftermarket amp and tap high level signal from the front 6.5 woofers for the amp input. I also want to change the front 3.5 mids with the Scanspeak mids but use the existing amp and stock signal conditioning. Not positive what the stock impedance is for the front mids ( but the Scanspeak is available in either 4 or 8 ohms so I should be ok either way). I will see what this does before determining what to do (if anything) with replacing the pillar tweets and/or the front center mid. My questions are the following -

1. If I match the stock impedance for the mids, do you think the stock amp will be able to drive the new scanspeak with better results?

2. How have your Dayton Audio subs been holding up? Still getting enough bass from them and good blend with the rest of the system?

Exactly which Scanspeak mids are you looking at? Got a link?

 

[rome5982]

Exactly which Scanspeak mids are you looking at? Got a link?

The same one the OP is using https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...anspeak-discovery-10f/4424g-4-midrange-4-ohm/

 

[StangTime]

Are you sure you want to use a driver designed for use in an sealed or ported enclosure? This isn't a car audio speaker. I will be interested in knowing how it performs.

 

[UserName]

Are you sure you want to use a driver designed for use in an sealed or ported enclosure? This isn't a car audio speaker. I will be interested in knowing how it performs.

I think this is the kind of driver you use when you do a full on, no holds barred custom install. Running it off the stock amp will get sound, but without tuning it to the car via RTA through the aftermarket dsp, you probably won’t get the optimum results. Plenty of people use scanspeak drivers and achieve amazing sound in automobiles. It’s just that they’re not replacing just one out of many drivers, they’re doing the whole nine and then some.

 

[rome5982]

Good points, and I realize that the OP is doing the whole 9 with this speaker and others. I am planning to try a stock amp/signal conditioning with a mid-speaker only upgrade improvement with the Scanspeak (since the stock system/amp is setup to drive "component "speakers) as long as I match the impedance, and then use a separate amp and the Dayton IB subs to improve the rear/bass of the system.

 

[Rash]

Good points, and I realize that the OP is doing the whole 9 with this speaker and others. I am planning to try a stock amp/signal conditioning with a mid-speaker only upgrade improvement with the Scanspeak (since the stock system/amp is setup to drive "component "speakers) as long as I match the impedance, and then use a separate amp and the Dayton IB subs to improve the rear/bass of the system.

I thought the mids our the 401a were 2 ohm

 

[rome5982]

I thought the mids our the 401a were 2 ohm

Well, I was not sure - 8 ohm or 2 ohms. If 2 ohms then I have to go with a 4 ohm tweeter replacement also in order to try and get close to the total impedance for the mid channel. So do we know for sure the 9 speaker 401A has 2 ohm mid? I will find out soon enough......my car should be ready in a few weeks.

 

[GTP]

Awesome post! My 2020 is on order with the 401A 9 speaker system. I plan on doing the IB dual subs in the rear deck with aftermarket amp and tap high level signal from the front 6.5 woofers for the amp input. I also want to change the front 3.5 mids with the Scanspeak mids but use the existing amp and stock signal conditioning. Not positive what the stock impedance is for the front mids ( but the Scanspeak is available in either 4 or 8 ohms so I should be ok either way). I will see what this does before determining what to do (if anything) with replacing the pillar tweets and/or the front center mid. My questions are the following -

1. If I match the stock impedance for the mids, do you think the stock amp will be able to drive the new scanspeak with better results?

2. How have your Dayton Audio subs been holding up? Still getting enough bass from them and good blend with the rest of the system?

This is the very best plan IMO. Ie dial subs at the package shelf driven by high level input amp from the front amp speaker outputs. Just borrow the current rear shelf speaker wires to feed the new amp.

The SS10F is a great choice in 4 ohm. Will it fit without hassle?

I have been biting my tongue when I read many others discussing only impedance matching and nothing else. Switching out drivers is much more than that. Even more than efficiency matching too. You would have to measure the full frequency response of the new driver and then develop a passive filter to make it flat. It really is a lot of work and requires special equipment and knowledge.

In my opinion we would be better off measuring the current door speaker response (mainly the midrange driver) and test for an uncompensated cone breakup mode. If the mode is identified then a compensating filter is required.

 

[Canoman]

Can anybody supply a pic of where this ground location is for OP’s amp? Seems almost everyone uses the bolt in the spare tire well, but I’m looking for one closer to the rear deck/parcel shelf/rear seats.

 

[NotMarc]

Can anybody supply a pic of where this ground location is for OP’s amp? Seems almost everyone uses the bolt in the spare tire well, but I’m looking for one closer to the rear deck/parcel shelf/rear seats.

I'm still using the middle seat bolt area ground down. I tested it at .02 ohms continuity which has been adequate for my two amps totalling 2000watts RMS (1100.5 and 900.5). Albeit i'm only pulling about half to 2/3rds of that right now.

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