Lightweight wheels?

[dman]

Thanks, I saw those. For price/weight ratio I'm still considering r357. Lmr just added gloss graphite option so they feel to me like optimal color between black and silver.

I do not know what to choose from wheel size point of view.

I tend to think 9/10 and 275/40/19 squared could be a good combo for dd and occasional autox.

Being able to rotate tires is also very handy not just from tire wear/life point of view, but from maintaining consistent grip for the car.

Like, right now I'm on oem pirellis 255/275, fronts have plenty of thread, rears are closer to ther life limit. I feel like rear has less grip despite wider tire and keeps going down. You literally hav different rubber front vs rear at some point. So, the downside of staggered is that as you put miles on your car, your grip distribution front/rear changes. Sometimes you may realize it in a somehow unpleasant situation.

If I had squered 275 I could rotate wheels and maintain similar wear on all 4 corners.

hi went to LMR. those wheels are offered in 10/11" widths. I am always concerned with the offset numbers. most race wheel manufacturers allow a +/- 5mm variable from factory spec. the R357 are within range for the rears but on the border at the front. most people don't care about the offset figure...they look good!
but sometimes, when wheel bearings become an issue and suspension geometry is affected, offset is usually the problem. there are a lot of variables with wheel buying. also people run spacers to widen the tracking etc. it really comes down to how the car will be driven...street, track, autox. but good to be informed as to the wheel's specs. I wanted to go square 275 but the OZ 9.5", rear spec, had too much offset for the front. just stayed with what was offered, 9/9.5" with factory offsets. they look great, track well and most importantly...light weight. there's all kinds of quality. OZ RACING, big time in the game.

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[accel]

hi went to LMR. those wheels are offered in 10/11" widths. I am always concerned with the offset numbers. most race wheel manufacturers allow a +/- 5mm variable from factory spec. the R357 are within range for the rears but on the border at the front. most people don't care about the offset figure...they look good!
but sometimes, when wheel bearings become an issue and suspension geometry is affected, offset is usually the problem. there are a lot of variables with wheel buying. also people run spacers to widen the tracking etc. it really comes down to how the car will be driven...street, track, autox. but good to be informed as to the wheel's specs. I wanted to go square 275 but the OZ 9.5", rear spec, had too much offset for the front. just stayed with what was offered, 9/9.5" with factory offsets. they look great, track well and most importantly...light weight. there's all kinds of quality. OZ RACING, big time in the game.

lmr sells 19/10 square with 285/35 tires combo, so I assume 275s will fit with no issues.

They also sell 19/10 11 staggered combo with 305 in the rear.

 

[Performance nut]

I run these for street and track. Love them.

PS the SVE weights are off. I weighed a set myself and found them to weigh more than what is on the website. Used my stock wheel to verify in case my scale was off. Difference was rather minimal. I ended up sending them back and going with MRR.

 

[Performance nut]

I don't intend to sound rude so apologies if this comes off that way, but why do you care about losing weight if you only autocross once a year and don't go to track days?

Some folks look at bang for buck factor. Others want best of the best of the best. Rest are in the middle somewhere.

Me I wanted a car to handle a very specific way without compromising safety and function. Took multiple parts to get there but it is there now. Lighter wheels definitely made a difference IMO but not to the point where I would spend $2k a wheel for forged but worth buying flow forged to get more rubber and less weight. But that's me.

 

[2morrow]

If you want to drop wheel weight for a reasonable cost, any of the flow-forged options are great. Some call it spun forged or rotary forged but its all the same process.
I run 2 sets of flow forged wheels for track and street and are very happy with both. When at the track just stay on the course and you won't have any issues.

All the other ideas thrown out are great too (Battery, brakes, exhaust) but driver weight loss should be something to consider too if you are not fit. Just sayin'.

I myself could stand to lose 5 lbs or so...

 

[Grintch]

I am always concerned with the offset numbers. most race wheel manufacturers allow a +/- 5mm variable from factory spec. the R357 are within range for the rears but on the border at the front. most people don't care about the offset figure...they look good!
but sometimes, when wheel bearings become an issue and suspension geometry is affected, offset is usually the problem. there are a lot of variables with wheel buying. also people run spacers to widen the tracking etc. it really comes down to how the car will be driven...street, track, autox. but good to be informed as to the wheel's specs.

You know the stock PP2 front wheel is +24?

Changeing the offset does often does effect the suspension in negative ways. But it is just like lowering the car, as long as you don't go crazy, the benifits often outweigh the negatives. In the case of front offset on the Mustang, stock offset (+45 PP1) is going to limit you to about a 275mm tire width before you rub the strut. And every 5mm of offset you lose let's you run roughly 10mm more tire.

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