Exhaust clamp tightness (borla s)

[Dfeeds]

Alright so I installed this a few weeks ago and recently noticed a leak. I went down to tighten the clamps but got to thinking of how tight these should be. I always had a buddy say "tighten until it just starts to distort," the instructions say 35 ft-lb or something, but that barely held anything in place.

I did notice that the clamps are the same as the stock clamps, and the stock clamps are tightened to the point that the bolt flange is curved into the curved metal piece that the bolt feeds through. The new clamps I tightened are not nearly this tight. However, to get the flange to form to the curved metal piece, I'd have to put a lot more force than the recommended torque specs. I feel like if I go any further then I may get these things too tight. The other thing I can think of is if there's maybe a trick to where the clamp is placed.

This is the most money I've ever spent on an exhaust, on my first new car, so I'd rather not seriously screw something up.

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[BlueThunder]

What type of clamp? I'm not familiar with the Borla S; is it the full system, axle-back, etc? If it's what I think you have, which is the full system where the pieces fit together with male/female parts and the thin clamps, then yeah, you're going to need to kung-fu those things down. Those clamps are literally bending the female portion around the male portion to form a seal. On the band clamps I've used, they get cranked down until they distort around the pipes as tight as I can get them by hand with the car on jack stands.

A good idea too is to support the area that's being tightened down from underneath. Loosen them a bit, use a small jack, piece of wood, or whatever underneath for support so that area is a tad above where it should be, then crank it down and pull out the supporting piece. Could also use a little Permatex where the pieces fit together.

 

[Dfeeds]

What type of clamp? I'm not familiar with the Borla S; is it the full system, axle-back, etc? If it's what I think you have, which is the full system where the pieces fit together with male/female parts and the thin clamps, then yeah, you're going to need to kung-fu those things down. Those clamps are literally bending the female portion around the male portion to form a seal. On the band clamps I've used, they get cranked down until they distort around the pipes as tight as I can get them by hand with the car on jack stands.

A good idea too is to support the area that's being tightened down from underneath. Loosen them a bit, use a small jack, piece of wood, or whatever underneath for support so that area is a tad above where it should be, then crank it down and pull out the supporting piece. Could also use a little Permatex where the pieces fit together.

EDIT: Forget it. Here's a better example. https://www.cjponyparts.com/borla-c...KKzq0RUFiM_-e5fInVM_Aw51MJ36xiOhoC9XYQAvD_BwE

That's what it seems like I have to do, but then I read someone else mention "if you have to overtighten then it's set up wrong," and I second guess myself. I'll try your idea with supporting the pipe. If I can, I want to avoid using any form of sealant. Thanks for the input! It's relieving knowing I probably didn't mess something up when tightening well beyond the torque specs

 

[BlueThunder]

Nah, I've always over-tightened exhaust clamps with no problems. You're not going to hurt the pipes and the clamps tend to be really sturdy, with thick bolts and deep threads. And I do think it's a good idea to support the pipes and tighten them down as they should be and not use the tightening process to try to properly align things (if that makes sense). Like if they're hanging a bit and get tightened down, there's the possibility (at least I'd think so) that they'd get tightened like that instead of getting aligned properly.

 

[Dfeeds]

Nah, I've always over-tightened exhaust clamps with no problems. You're not going to hurt the pipes and the clamps tend to be really sturdy, with thick bolts and deep threads. And I do think it's a good idea to support the pipes and tighten them down as they should be and not use the tightening process to try to properly align things (if that makes sense). Like if they're hanging a bit and get tightened down, there's the possibility (at least I'd think so) that they'd get tightened like that instead of getting aligned properly.

No, I get exactly what you're saying. My first time through I made everything snug, used whatever I could to support the weight of the exhaust, and slowly tightened it all over. I'm not happy with the allignment but it's not rattling around, and you can't tell without looking under the car. So, for now, it's fine until I can get the car up on a lift.

I haven't had the chance to get the car on jack stands (roof is being redone and my garage door is completely blocked off) so I purchased a 2ft long ratcheting breaker bar, or whatever it's technically called. I went around and tightened the clamps last night and so far the ticking is gone. I'll have to see if there's any more moisture or exhaust gas build up after a few cycles but hopefully I got it! I was just so worried about over tightening so I'm glad you chimed in with your experience.

 

[kent0464]

Alright so I installed this a few weeks ago and recently noticed a leak. I went down to tighten the clamps but got to thinking of how tight these should be. I always had a buddy say "tighten until it just starts to distort," the instructions say 35 ft-lb or something, but that barely held anything in place.

I did notice that the clamps are the same as the stock clamps, and the stock clamps are tightened to the point that the bolt flange is curved into the curved metal piece that the bolt feeds through. The new clamps I tightened are not nearly this tight. However, to get the flange to form to the curved metal piece, I'd have to put a lot more force than the recommended torque specs. I feel like if I go any further then I may get these things too tight. The other thing I can think of is if there's maybe a trick to where the clamp is placed.

This is the most money I've ever spent on an exhaust, on my first new car, so I'd rather not seriously screw something up.

The original owner of my must have had the same problem as all the clamps on the cat-back are gone and all the joints have been welded.......which I understand, but it looks like a 5 yo did it, horrible welds with one weld leaking, after I get moved I’m going to just make my own exhaust.

 

[Grom13]

Rattle gun them tight or they will keep coming loose , can’t get them tight enough with a ratchet

 

[Ebm]

Rattle gun them tight or they will keep coming loose , can’t get them tight enough with a ratchet

Sure you can. Use a longer ratchet or a breaker bar. I guarantee you can get them tight. Ha

 

[Dfeeds]

Rattle gun them tight or they will keep coming loose , can’t get them tight enough with a ratchet

What about a 2 foot long ratchet/breaker bar hybrid? I have no idea what this thing is technically called but it's nifty.

The original owner of my must have had the same problem as all the clamps on the cat-back are gone and all the joints have been welded.......which I understand, but it looks like a 5 yo did it, horrible welds with one weld leaking, after I get moved I’m going to just make my own exhaust.

That's exactly what I want to avoid. If this were a $500 exhaust on a foxbody/sn95 I paid $2k for then I'd weld it all together, too, but not not on this new one. You're then stuck with it as one unit, too. Getting a custom job is definitely cheaper but the borla is bent way better than anything I, or any local shop, could fab up.

 

[kent0464]

What about a 2 foot long ratchet/breaker bar hybrid? I have no idea what this thing is technically called but it's nifty.



That's exactly what I want to avoid. If this were a $500 exhaust on a foxbody/sn95 I paid $2k for then I'd weld it all together, too, but not not on this new one. You're then stuck with it as one unit, too. Getting a custom job is definitely cheaper but the borla is bent way better than anything I, or any local shop, could fab up.

Yep, I don’t like what shops usually have to offer for custom exhausts, but I have my own bender and mandrels. I will use Borla XR1’s for the mufflers and 3” pipe, I’d like to use 4” but I don’t think it’ll fit like I want it to, we’ll see.

 

[joshnc101]

I was wondering about this myself. I tightened mine to the specified 35lbs, and the exhaust keeps twisting itself out of alignment to where the tips are obviously crooked.

How much more can I safely tighten the clamps?

 

[Dfeeds]

I was wondering about this myself. I tightened mine to the specified 35lbs, and the exhaust keeps twisting itself out of alignment to where the tips are obviously crooked.

How much more can I safely tighten the clamps?

I don't have an exact number but I've torqued them well passed 35lbs. I basically just went until I was confident these things wouldn't be twisting loose when driving around. Nothing was going to stay alligned at the recommended spec. I have no idea where borla got that number. The only thing I can think of is that you're supposed to just hammer it down with an impact set to 35lbs until it stops.

There's definitely some trial and error, it seems, if one doesn't want to weld or use a sealant.

Yep, I don’t like what shops usually have to offer for custom exhausts, but I have my own bender and mandrels. I will use Borla XR1’s for the mufflers and 3” pipe, I’d like to use 4” but I don’t think it’ll fit like I want it to, we’ll see.

If you're staying the factory cats and headers then I don't see 4" being any benefit. Also, as is, the 3" pipes run real close to the rear sway bar. You might run into some clearance issues.

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