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A/C Evaporator Factory Defect

louierg

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Yes it is. And for those of us who have had the personal expenses , wonder if it will happen again. Mine is not a daily driver. had 20000 miles on the vehilce two years ago when it went out. Had 21000 when repaired. Now have 24500.
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Deleted member 35786

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This thread is terrifying knowing how much I use the AC year round, and that my B2B ran out 2 years ago lol
Yep mine was repaired to and b2b is now expired. Best to have about $2k set aside just in case..
 

Cobra Jet

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This thread is terrifying knowing how much I use the AC year round, and that my B2B ran out 2 years ago lol
Yep mine was repaired to and b2b is now expired. Best to have about $2k set aside just in case..
Anyone who has surpassed the b2b warranty should check out the to see if they can get into an ESP warranty offered by Flood Ford. Many members have purchased from Flood and it protects against quite a few other components.

The best coverage plans will be those that cover up to or over 100k for those who have not peaked that mileage interval yet.
 

geddys

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Also if you get diagnosed by dealer that evaporator needs replacement, go to shop that repairs AC for second opinion. In my case it turned out that 2 o-rings were leaking on the spot where evaporator is connected to tubes, not the evaporator itself. ( Dealer diagnosed it following Ford procedures )
 

kingrooster31

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Hi all,
Trying to read all 81 pages for info on this issue and it is quite scary to see what it entails to replace an evaporator. I have a 2018 GT base black accent package (Houston, TX). Bought the car brand new from Joe Myers Ford and currently at 13,800 miles and 15 days away from 1 yr of ownership.

Symptoms I currently have.

When I leave for lunch at 1 pm the A/C doesn't blow cold. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Same thing at 5 pm when leaving for the day. If the temps outside are extreme, I find it acts up. If the temperature inst bad, the AC blows super cold. Is this a sign of the evaporator going back or a Freon leak or compressor going bad? I am currently waiting on the dealer to get me a loaner so I can drop the car off to get it looked at / diagnosed but they don't seem to be good on follow up. Its been 6 days and counting.

I do have an aftermarket radio with a metra board for the AC controls (Pic attached) Not sure if that board has gone bad with the heat but everything seems to turn ON just fine which leads me to believe the problem is mechanical.

Have any of you experienced similar symptoms on a 2018 GT and up?
IMG_20181119_101658.jpg
 

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JayTea

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Hi all,
Trying to read all 81 pages for info on this issue and it is quite scary to see what it entails to replace an evaporator. I have a 2018 GT base black accent package (Houston, TX). Bought the car brand new from Joe Myers Ford and currently at 13,800 miles and 15 days away from 1 yr of ownership.

Symptoms I currently have.

When I leave for lunch at 1 pm the A/C doesn't blow cold. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Same thing at 5 pm when leaving for the day. If the temps outside are extreme, I find it acts up. If the temperature inst bad, the AC blows super cold. Is this a sign of the evaporator going back or a Freon leak or compressor going bad? I am currently waiting on the dealer to get me a loaner so I can drop the car off to get it looked at / diagnosed but they don't seem to be good on follow up. Its been 6 days and counting.

I do have an aftermarket radio with a metra board for the AC controls (Pic attached) Not sure if that board has gone bad with the heat but everything seems to turn ON just fine which leads me to believe the problem is mechanical.

Have any of you experienced similar symptoms on a 2018 GT and up?
IMG_20181119_101658.jpg
I had something similar happen to me. It was the evap core and was replaced. No issues for over a year now
 

Deleted member 35786

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Take it in and get it diagnosed. Its on warranty so let Ford figure it out. Keep in mind of you installed different electronics/AC Control as you say that could be a factor in how it is behaving. Even worse if Fords says your aftermarket electronics are the issue then you could be out of luck on a warranty claim.
Good luck with the dealer and keep us posted.
 

sy1462

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Well I just found this thread after searching for what may have led my 2015 to have the AC stop working.... guess I have a pretty good idea now.

Before taking it to the dealer I was going to veryify it is truly low on freon and try the STP sealer trick but it's now gotten low enough the compressor won't kick on... anyone know how to manually engage the compressor so it will take a charge?
 

TicTocTach

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Well I just found this thread after searching for what may have led my 2015 to have the AC stop working.... guess I have a pretty good idea now.

Before taking it to the dealer I was going to veryify it is truly low on freon and try the STP sealer trick but it's now gotten low enough the compressor won't kick on... anyone know how to manually engage the compressor so it will take a charge?
You could try bypassing the low pressure switch (not sure where that is, but should be easy to find), but I don't think you need the compressor running to add refrigerant. If you have the engine running and AC on, the compressor will kick on when the pressure in the system gets above the switch level. I don't know how much sealant is in the STP can, but you'll probably need some additional refrigerant to get the pressures right. Do you have a gauge set?
 

kz

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You could try bypassing the low pressure switch (not sure where that is, but should be easy to find), but I don't think you need the compressor running to add refrigerant. If you have the engine running and AC on, the compressor will kick on when the pressure in the system gets above the switch level. I don't know how much sealant is in the STP can, but you'll probably need some additional refrigerant to get the pressures right. Do you have a gauge set?
The STP can comes with a gauge - problem is that if I remember correctly you have to have compressor running when adding refrigerant to set the pressure correctly and add the right amount - but if it's empty, adding some just to make it work could probably work.
 

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louierg

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Tic Toc is right. That said A/C systems have changed over the years. Freon and oil tolerances have become less forgivable. Find a reputable independent and have it diagnosed. I have done my own in the past and don't want to mess up the system. Have a $2000 evaporator replacement AS A RESULT OF THE FACTORY DEFECT.
 

sy1462

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The STP can comes with a gauge - problem is that if I remember correctly you have to have compressor running when adding refrigerant to set the pressure correctly and add the right amount - but if it's empty, adding some just to make it work could probably work.
It won't take freon without the system running... the low pressure switch needs to be bypassed. Just wondered if anyone here knows where it is and if bypassing is as simple as unplugging the electrical connector.
 

tranceporter

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I had my original evaporator replaced at 12K miles in April 2018 and now the car is just over 40K and at the dealer because the AC is feeling weak. Didn't really notice it until I jumped in my friends 10-year-old Accord with 150K miles and his AC was freezing cold. I'm almost certain it's the evaporator again because the symptoms are familiar.

At this rate, I'll need a new evaporator every summer. Fun times.
 

Rich-2016 GT

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Ok so I am new to this forum and I too now have a failed Evap according to the dealer. I waited thirty years to buy a sports car and this is what I end up with. I have 37,450 miles on the car. The entire hood was replaced last month and now this problem. I am very disappointed with Ford. The dealer held my car for two weeks and Ford said no assistance will be given. Now the dealer will only charge $1,200 for the repair which is cheaper then what I see here but is still very expensive for a part that costs $150 or less. I will call Ford but have no expectation for them to help. When I do put my car up for sale I will never buy another Ford product or recommend them. Now I am thinking about doing this job myself, I am very capable of working on cars or just about anything. I would like to know if anyone has knowledge of the correct current part to use. The TSB shows this FR3Z19860B but also I see this part MOTORCRAFT YK260. Anyone know which is the best most up to date part for the job? Thanks for any info provided.
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