2016 GT suspension recommendations

[BmacIL]

Gotcha! The 10 inch wheels (42mm offset & 181mm backspace) would be running with a 10mm spacer and still would need the camber plates, correct

You'd need a 3-5 mm spacer up front to clear with no sweat. Rear, none.

I would recommend 285/35R19 tires. 285/40R19 are pretty large and there's not a great selection in that size. You do not need camber plates for fitment at all, and with modest lowering, will put the front camber right around -1.5-1.6.

Sponsored

 

[HourlyB]

You'd need a 3-5 mm spacer up front to clear with no sweat. Rear, none.

I would recommend 285/35R19 tires. 285/40R19 are pretty large and there's not a great selection in that size. You do not need camber plates for fitment at all, and with modest lowering, will put the front camber right around -1.5-1.6.

Thanks! Right now the list looks like this;

• (First) Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace (https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-performance-strut-tower-brace-1517-gt-ecoboost.html) - $197.99
  
  
• (First) Ford Performance Track Shock & Strut Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-shock-strut-kit-1516gt.html) - $628.90
  
  
• (First) BMR Lowering Springs - Handling (SP083) (https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-handling-low-springs-1516.html) - $279.95
  
  
• (First) Forgestar F14 19x10 (https://www.americanmuscle.com/gunmetal-forgestarf14-19x10-2015.html) - $1800 for 4
  
  
  • Front wheels need 5mm-3/16in spacer: https://www.americanmuscle.com/wheel-spacer-316in-9412.html
    
    
  • Tires; Front & Rear: 285/35R19, Michelin Pilot Sports 4S (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...PS4SXLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes) $1351
    
• (First) BMR IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout kit (CB005) (https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-red-1516.html) - $219.95
  
  
• BMR Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear, Standard (BK081) (http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1808) - $159.95
  
  
• BMR Rear Shock Mount, Steel (SM760) (http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1975) - $179.95
  
  
• (First) Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit - (https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...mpsteer-Correction-Kit-2015-2020_p_15413.html) - $334.95
  
  
• Caster Camber plates - CP001 (not necessary)
  
  
• GT350 Sway Bars (or another stronger version) - ~$400
  

Total spent; $4812, not including tools or a jack/garage space.
Gonna be running on beef jerky and cold beans for a while, I can tell lol.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks! Right now the list looks like this;

• (First) Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace (https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-performance-strut-tower-brace-1517-gt-ecoboost.html) - $197.99
  
  
• (First) Ford Performance Track Shock & Strut Kit (https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-shock-strut-kit-1516gt.html) - $628.90
  
  
• (First) BMR Lowering Springs - Handling (SP083) (https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-handling-low-springs-1516.html) - $279.95
  
  
• (First) Forgestar F14 19x10 (https://www.americanmuscle.com/gunmetal-forgestarf14-19x10-2015.html) - $1800 for 4
  
  • Front wheels need 5mm-3/16in spacer: https://www.americanmuscle.com/wheel-spacer-316in-9412.html
    
    
  • Tires; Front & Rear: 285/35R19, Michelin Pilot Sports 4S (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...PS4SXLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes) $1351
• (First) BMR IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout kit (CB005) (https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-irs-lockoutk-kit-red-1516.html) - $219.95
  
  
• BMR Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear, Standard (BK081) (http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1808) - $159.95
  
  
• BMR Rear Shock Mount, Steel (SM760) (http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1975) - $179.95
  
  
• (First) Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit - (https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...mpsteer-Correction-Kit-2015-2020_p_15413.html) - $334.95
  
  
• Caster Camber plates - CP001 (not necessary)
  
  
• GT350 Sway Bars (or another stronger version) - ~$400

Total spent; $4812, not including tools or a jack/garage space.
Gonna be running on beef jerky and cold beans for a while, I can tell lol.

What I'd say is that you could probably defer some of them to spread the cost out (which it seems like you're already looking at). Unless the F14 is the only wheel for you, there are plenty of flow forged options for ~half that price. Also I would just do the BMR front swaybar only at $250. I'd also definitely do the shock mounts at the same time as the dampers. The ride improvement is significant.

You can save some money on the dampers here:
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/p-20152016mustangtrackstrutandshockkit-m18000f

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Good list, but I have to ask: how do you like your car’s ride now on your local roads?

If you’re ready for a 50% increase in stiffness, then stick to your plan. Many run those and say they are fine. If you’re not interested in such an increase, then look into a spring with less rate — consider adjustable swaybars to compensate.

 

[BmacIL]

And the rebuttal to the above is there's a lot more to ride than just stiff/soft. I get consistent compliments on it. It's not a Lexus, but if you want a refined, controlled and competent sports car ride, you got it.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

And the rebuttal to the above is there's a lot more to ride than just stiff/soft. I get consistent compliments on it. It's not a Lexus, but if you want a refined, controlled and competent sports car ride, you got it.

Yep, true there’s more to it, but stiff is still stiff.

OP, my setup is only a tad less stiff then what you’re proposing and I’m just fine. But bad roads are very noticeable now. It’s to a point where I’m putting quarters in the swear jar when I get home after driving the dodgy roads in rural Alabama.

 

[HourlyB]

What I'd say is that you could probably defer some of them to spread the cost out (which it seems like you're already looking at). Unless the F14 is the only wheel for you, there are plenty of flow forged options for ~half that price. Also I would just do the BMR front swaybar only at $250. I'd also definitely do the shock mounts at the same time as the dampers. The ride improvement is significant.

You can save some money on the dampers here:
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/p-20152016mustangtrackstrutandshockkit-m18000f

Added that kit link in!
I know you've already suggested the SVE R357, which do look good, but the only thing holding me back is that I haven't been able to find anyone saying anything about them outside of the usual youtube comment of "looks sick". Forgestar on the other hand, I've seen and know people who have taken them to a track and they perform well. I'm willing to take your word that they are good, but the only place selling them is LMR and it seems like SVE is their in house brand;

https://lmr.com/item/WK-357906A/mustang-sve-r357-wheel-kit-19x10-bronze-1519

I would like a bronze set of wheels though, however with Dark Impact Blue it'd look weird.

Good list, but I have to ask: how do you like your car’s ride now on your local roads?

If you’re ready for a 50% increase in stiffness, then stick to your plan. Many run those and say they are fine. If you’re not interested in such an increase, then look into a spring with less rate — consider adjustable swaybars to compensate.

I'm fine with the ride currently, and I can take it if the stiffer/better handling suspension rocks me more. What I wouldn't be able to take is if the stiffer suspension actually caused damage to the car.

 

[BmacIL]

The SVE wheels are actually very nice. I've DD and tracked on two sets of their drift wheels for a couple years now and I can say they're high quality pieces. The barrels of all their wheels are flow forged and the rest is pressure cast to avoid porosity and improve strength/rigidity. Lots of folks on Track Mustangs Online have them for track wheels with no issues. Is a fully forged wheel stronger, less likely to crack after many, many, many load cycles? Sure. You can buy 3 sets of the SVEs for the cheapest set of fully forged wheels I've found. I'm pretty sure that Forgestars are of the same construction. I wouldn't fault you for buying them, though, they're a great looking wheel with a great reputation.

I know someone who just got the GT7 wheels in bronze for his DIB car and they look fabulous. The bronze is fairly toned down. When in doubt, the gloss black will always be great.
@strengthrehab

 

[HourlyB]

The SVE wheels are actually very nice. I've DD and tracked on two sets of their drift wheels for a couple years now and I can say they're high quality pieces. The barrels of all their wheels are flow forged and the rest is pressure cast to avoid porosity and improve strength/rigidity. Lots of folks on Track Mustangs Online have them for track wheels with no issues. Is a fully forged wheel stronger, less likely to crack after many, many, many load cycles? Sure. You can buy 3 sets of the SVEs for the cheapest set of fully forged wheels I've found. I'm pretty sure that Forgestars are of the same construction. I wouldn't fault you for buying them, though, they're a great looking wheel with a great reputation.

I know someone who just got the GT7 wheels in bronze for his DIB car and they look fabulous. The bronze is fairly toned down. When in doubt, the gloss black will always be great.
@strengthrehab

Aaaaaaaand now the Forgestar's are looking to be ~$1000 a set; https://www.americanmuscle.com/gunmetal-forgestarf14-19x10-2015.html

I'm not going to make a move on really any of this until April, so I'll wait until then and buy the better deal.

Thanks for the advice everyone! If anyone can think of any other good parts to get, please write them down!

 

[NightmareMoon]

SVE R350 wheels are good to go. I know people who autox them and they seem to hold up fine, like most flow formed wheels (cast face, but forged barrels). The barrel is usually what will get bent and but flow formed barrels will take the hit and bounce back. As long as the spokes have enough material (and these do) you’re good.

Forgestar has its fair share of quality control issues BTW. They aren’t perfect by any means.

 

[strengthrehab]

I love my bronze GT7's. The bronze color is very subdued, but you can tell it is bronze, lol.

 

[TheMegalodon]

I recently installed the BMR performance springs (with the minimum drop front springs - 7/8” drop) paired with Koni’s newer Special Active dampers (red). The performance springs have nearly the same springs rates as factory PP springs (170f/740r). The drop is nice with some good clearance at the front. It’s a 2 finger gap up front and 1 finger gap in the rear. Ride is compliant and more planted; bumps are absorbed a little bit better than stock. Overall I’m fairly happy with the ride alongside a reasonable drop that lets me get in and out of my underground parking. I have 1” spacers all around as well.

 

[HourlyB]

Sorry for necroing this thread, but it's coming to the wire now.

I've saved enough for these parts;

• SVE R357 19x10 wheels
• BMR Rear Shock Mount (SM760)
• BMR Handling Lowering Springs (SP083)
• BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit (CB005)
• Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Bearings (ST-555 4117)
• Steeda Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction kit (ST-555 4915)
• Ford TPMS Kit (M-1180-C, might be overkill)
• Ford Performance Track Strut and Shock Kit (M-18000-F)
• Ford Performance Tower Brace (M-20201-MA)

Now, the only thing left to decide on is tires.

For tires, it's really down to the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and the Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position. I know the 4S are the better tires, but is it $300 better when I really only do spirited driving and auto-x and a track day once in a blue moon. Also, 4S are on back order everywhere, while the Potenzas are available everywhere, and given the current crisis, that is valuable.

There is another option, which is to just buy the smaller items that are currently on sale, and wait for the larger items to go on sale. I was hoping LMR would have a Memorial Day sale for the SVE wheels, but seems like it was nixed. Maybe they will have one on Independence Day, however the lack of one on Memorial Day might mean there won't be a sale until this crisis is over. Still, might not hurt to wait, since it seems that Michelin's are only coming back in stock during July anyway. Plus, my Blizzaks are perfectly fine for dailying.

Anyone have a advice for the tires or is a inside man at LMR who can get me a sale?

Also, I've been looking a little bit into improving the brakes as well. Any suggestions? The main limit being I am running stock 18" wheels in the winter, so I can't just buy biggest calipers/discs.

Thanks everyone!

 

[shogun32]

I HATE it when people start a new thread when an existing exists and esp. when it's just following up. So good job!
If advanced use is once-in-blue moon then I would just buy a good quality A/S (Conti) or the if summer, the Indy 500 or the S04.

 

[Norm Peterson]

No secret, I'm the guy who would probably spend that "might be overkill" line item money on the Michelins, bring the wheels and tires in "loose" to my tire guy saying that they're for track duty, and ignore the light.

On brakes, pad and fluid upgrades will net you some improvement even with the base-level brakes, but the difficulty in keeping base brakes cool is what'll limit you on the big tracks. For street and autocross, base OE brakes will be fine.


Norm

Sponsored