Another Gen 5 whipple thread .

[olaosunt]

I also just looked under my KB car, and I had forgotten but I also have the magnaflow resonated tru X on there .

That car has long tube headers and it sounds decent but still way too raspy . Driving that car a bit since the engine swap reminds me how much I hate long tubes .As you can tell I have tried without much success to make it sound decent and have in addition to the magnaflow , 2 additional bottle resonators before the Kooks mufflers .

That car has a 5.2 short block and has made over 1000 whp (19 psi ) with both GT and GT350 heads though the same exhaust (including the resonators) so I am now not entirely convinced the resonators are that restrictive .
It’s possible it would make more if the exhaust flowed better but I am doubting if it’s the resonator costing me the “missing “ ET/trap .

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[PC 2015]

The mid pipe is not your problem. If you were a max effort build then yes headers and 3in all the way back. I know of a few cars with mak cat deletes with the rest stock exhaut. Running well in the 9's

I have stock exhaut with mak deletes and I went 10.40 at 138 with e85 and 3.875. My first time running the car and my first 10 second pass ever. I'm gonna go deep I the 9'with this setup I guarentee it. It's no the exhaut. There is something going on with your car. Do you know how much psi your making. Have you checked logs to make sure there no belt slip? Something is off the car is not back halfing enough mhp.

 

[Bluelightning]

I can tell you my car was loud as hell with that pipe even with the stock cats on it. Was about to put cat deletes on it, but totaled it a couple of weeks ago. I can only imagine how obnoxious it was going to be. TT 350 here I come...

 

[PC 2015]

I can tell you my car was loud as hell with that pipe even with the stock cats on it. Was about to put cat deletes on it, but totaled it a couple of weeks ago. I can only imagine how obnoxious it was going to be. TT 350 here I come...

Dsmn sorry to here.

 

[olaosunt]

Thanks man . I also really appreciate you taking the time to talk to me on the phone .

Not sure how much boost since I have the fake E-Boost gauge. I think load may be good representation of how much boost it makes and on the 9.8 pass I was seeing 193 versus 189-190 last time out .

I know others have seen higher load values with the same set up but even when I had the whipple tune my load values were low when I compared with others . It may be a factor of the cam timing but when i asked tuner If he could “tweak” the tune to see more load he said there was nothing more to gained and same tune had put other cars in to the 8’s . He also explained that the value was calculated and could be changed using a different “MAF curve air load “ - all Greek to me .

Now I am sure load could also be down if the belt was slipping but I don’t think it is based on the flat load curve .


I think some of variation I have seen in load is also weather /air related as we all love and notice the extra power that comes with “good air” on cool fall nights /early spring .

To be honesty I am not too worried about the car . It feels strong and should run 9.6-9.7 once the air gets better if it stays as is.
It’s trapped a max of 140 so far and I would expect it pick up 1-2 mph .

Now if it does not pick up anymore in cool weather I will be worried .
Not looking to break records or build another”race car “ .
I have 2 already and I am truly to get rd of them !
When Racine is done I will put it on the dyno to see how much power it’s making /Dona compression test and go from there .

Hopefully I will also have a spare block by then ready to go if needed .

 

[olaosunt]

The mid pipe is not your problem. If you were a max effort build then yes headers and 3in all the way back. I know of a few cars with mak cat deletes with the rest stock exhaut. Running well in the 9's

I have stock exhaut with mak deletes and I went 10.40 at 138 with e85 and 3.875. My first time running the car and my first 10 second pass ever. I'm gonna go deep I the 9'with this setup I guarentee it. It's no the exhaut. There is something going on with your car. Do you know how much psi your making. Have you checked logs to make sure there no belt slip? Something is off the car is not back halfing enough mhp.

Having said all that though there is something to @HRSEPLA ‘s concern about the resonator being a restriction.
I consistently trap 1-2 mph higher with the active exhaust in normal /sport mode compared to quiet mode .

 

[PC 2015]

Having said all that though there is something to @HRSEPLA ‘s concern about the resonator being a restriction.
I consistently trap 1-2 mph higher with the active exhaust in normal /sport mode compared to quiet mode .

I'm not saying that the the resonator isn't restricting at all. I mean a 2.5in isn't as good a 3in exhaust either. But your not gonna loose .5 second or more from it. What I'm saying is with a 3.25 pulley and your whole setup. You should be trapping faster then 140 constantly no problem. I know DA plays a factor but I think you should be going 9.5/9.6 no problem and I think that's being conservative. Considering your 60 foot is 1.28.

 

[olaosunt]

I'm not saying that the the resonator isn't restricting at all. I mean a 2.5in isn't as good a 3in exhaust either. But your not gonna loose .5 second or more from it. What I'm saying is with a 3.25 pulley and your whole setup. You should be trapping faster then 140 constantly no problem. I know DA plays a factor but I think you should be going 9.5/9.6 no problem and I think that's being conservative. Considering your 60 foot is 1.28.

As you know I agree as well bro.

Any tips on how I can tell if the belt is slipping ?

 

[PC 2015]

As you know I agree as well bro.

Any tips on how I can tell if the belt is slipping ?

With your HPtuner Ngauge I believe you can read boost in your logs. If that looks good need to do a compression test.

 

[olaosunt]

I don’t think I can with the N gauge .
What are your “Load SNAP(%) “ values ?
Here is where I am at consistently with the 3.25 pulley .
Max load is 193 (190-193) but flat except first gear.

 

[olaosunt]

Just limped car home 70 miles and
I think I broke the something in converter.
Codes are TCC codes .

I got there late and then waited a couple of hours to make a pass hoping for decent air .
Normal burn out and car uncharacteristically spun real bad trying to leave at 3500 rpm, so I aborted the pass and just drove to turn around .

On return to the pits it threw wrench . Backing up to pit I noticed left back tire was leaking air and almost flat .

Thankfully I got some help and was able to plug the hole tire .
Car jerks in every gear but was able to limp it home leaving it 6th (drove best in that gear and wanted to avoid any shifting
-drove about 50 mph ).
Hoping I did not damage the transmission anymore by driving it but could not get a tow when I tried(at least for 3 hours ).
Not sure when tire went flat or if it hard anything to do with the TCC but I checked my pressures (18 psi ) on both sides just before pulling in to the lanes .

I guess it’s plausible it had gone down before I did the burnout or during and then trying to launch on an almost flat tire did the damage ?

Car had been pulling stronger last few days after I cleaned the very dirty filter. Also adjusted the idler to get what I thought was better belt wrap .
I had been feeling real good about the way they car ran getting logs and hoping for some good times as temp had just dropped in to the high 70’


I had even ordered a 3.0 pulley/ belt and it was waiting for me when I finally got home at midnight-dropped off by Uber at home after dropping off car at the shop .lol

I am so sick and tired ......This is the final straw .
I think my drag racing days may be over.

Last few years it has been broken motors , this year it has been transmissions (just had the 6R80 in the Hellion car rebuilt for second time)

I am assuming it’s the converter so now glad I did not send in my OEM for miserable core (after purchase ) of $350.
Not sure how bad/hard the” second gear leave” was on things.
Since there was no more first gear it would jerk hard from P to D
Hopefully circle D has some kind of warranty on the $2K converter if it’s broke .

 

[pro 5.0]

Sounds like a valve body problem.

https://ford.oemdtc.com/3935/10r80-illuminated-mil-dtcs-p0741-p1744-2017-2018-ford-lincoln

 

[olaosunt]

Sounds like a valve body problem.

https://ford.oemdtc.com/3935/10r80-illuminated-mil-dtcs-p0741-p1744-2017-2018-ford-lincoln

I am hoping that’s “all” it is .

I did have them swap the valve body(at my cost ) when I did the clutches early in the summer. It did not have a code then but I thought it was good idea to do it at the same time .

I am going to see if I can have it replaced under warranty since their is a TSB , but I doubt it with the rebuilt
transmission/aftermarket converter .... unless my SA can work some magic .

Maybe the stock valve body did not play well with the new converter /first gear delete tune ?

Maybe launching on an almost flat tire (not sure if was down then ) ?

Don’t think there is an aftermarket “upgrade”.

 

[pro 5.0]

If you don't tell the dealer about the converter or the clutches they probably wouldn't know any different, the converter is hidden within the bellhousing and the clutches aren't visible through the case. The valve body can just be dropped out from the bottom in the car, maybe when you fried the original clutches some debris got caught up in the cooler and lines and made it's way back into the new valve body. That's the problem people push the stock clutches then when they are toast throw in the new Raybestos ones, but they don't bother to flush out the debris and it could bite you in the ass later. If your tire was flat on launch the car should have pulled left or right and you would have noticed or been in the wall you'd think.

 

[olaosunt]

If you don't tell the dealer about the converter or the clutches they probably wouldn't know any different, the converter is hidden within the bellhousing and the clutches aren't visible through the case. The valve body can just be dropped out from the bottom in the car, maybe when you fried the original clutches some debris got caught up in the cooler and lines and made it's way back into the new valve body. That's the problem people push the stock clutches then when they are toast throw in the new Raybestos ones, but they don't bother to flush out the debris and it could bite you in the ass later. If your tire was flat on launch the car should have pulled left or right and you would have noticed or been in the wall you'd think.

Thanks man .
Dealer has a”performance division” so that’s where I have had my work done for the last 10 years .
They did the clutches several months ago back in June and the converter 2 weeks ago (was not readily available at the time of the clutches )
Clutches were slipping a bit then (ultimately
turned out not to be the cause of the issues I was having )but were not too bad .

Yeah car got out of shape pretty badly and I was heading towards the middle cones on the left but I lifted real quick .

Hopefully just needs a new valve body and lines flushed .
If that’s not it I guess I may have them put the stock converter back and see .

This crap never ends !

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