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My GT350 Hood Pin Solution

JohnVallo

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I finally completed my GT350 Hood Pin Solution on my 2016 GT350 and I thought it was worth sharing, even though it may not suit everyone. This should work for all 2016-2018 GT350’s

I started by doing some research on any previous installations, (articles, video’s, etc.), -Not many found-
I did find this YouTube video for a 2017 GT350, made at EasyStreetGarage:


This EasyStreetGarage installation on YouTube used the Quick Latch QL-50 kit, (Priced close to 300.00). This installation was not for me, as the location was a point 14 ½” back from front of hood (Too far back in my opinion). I think the reason they did this was to use the existing under-hood steel brackets on the GT350 located there, as well as the FP350S race cars also used this location.

My own preference is a location 6” back from front, and 10-11” in from the sides.
This always looked good and worked well in my 35+ years of late model stock car racing.
Using this location my thought was that I could actually use the Quick Latch QL-38-LP/BP kit, which uses 3/8” OD pins, instead of the ½” OD pins on the QL-50 series. These Hood Pins are rated at 500 Lbs., plenty strong enough, in my opinion. Also, the price was over a hundred dollars less than the QL-50 kit. My other preference was to keep my existing OEM hood latch operational. This is indeed providing a 3 point system. If one were to remove the OEM center hood latch, (or not use it), the QL-50 series 1/2" pins may be your answer.

The difference between the FP350S (Left), and the 2020 GT500 (Right), I like the GT500 's Hood Pin Location Better
FP350S - GT500 Front Comparison.jpg


Along came the 2020 GT500. It comes from the factory with hood pins. I studied the hood pin setup on this car and was impressed and satisfied that this car’s hood pin location was more in line with my preference. The hood on my 2016 GT350 has previously always fluttered at 120+ mph, (Not that I drive a lot at that speed), but even after I added FP hood struts, it didn’t improve much. So, since the GT500 has the awesome factory Quick Latch pins I thought it was finally time to add mine.
The 2020 GT500 Hood Pin Views, My inspiration for this project. Ford did a superb job here...
GT500-Under The Hood and Close-Up.jpg


My plan was to First install (2) 3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts to be located at the strong point of the Carbon Fiber support, to hold the pins Then fit the 3/8” pins in (Higher at first), so I could mark/center-punch and get an exact location for the hood latch pilot hole in the hood itself. The 4" pins need to eventually be shortened, (They are too long). I cut off 1 ¾” of threads from each pin, for final installation

Hood Pin Locations, (Centered in the Strongest Area of the Carbon Fiber Support
GT350 Hood Pin Locations.jpg


After drilling out pilot holes to 17/32, the Rivet Nuts are installed. Used existing pin hardware for install tool.
Rivet Nut Ready And Installed.jpg


The Pins need to be shortened, I shortened by 1 1/2" (Shown), But I had to shorten by another 1/4", So... 1 3/4" Total
Shortened Hood Pin.jpg


On the hood, I encountered that the latch location was double layered, as well as uneven on the underside.
-No problem- :
I would drill a ¼” pilot hole through both layers, from the underside center-punch mark. Then hole-saw (just the bottom layer to 2 1/8”). Hole-saw the bottom layer first, there won't be a pilot hole in the Passenger-Side bottom layer. NOTE: Be Very, Very careful when drilling the underside. The Aluminum layers are only about 3/16" apart, and you do not want to drill through the top layer with the large hole saw. Then hole-saw the top layer to 1 1/8”. The 2 1/8” hole in the bottom layer would allow me to use a 2” OD x 1 1/8" ID aluminum washer under the jam nut, creating a strong sandwich effect as well as to allow room to tighten the jam nut.

Hood Latch Hole in Hood, Ready For Latch Installation.
Hood Holes Ready For Installation.jpg


Hood Latch Installation, Note Additional Aluminum Support Washer, (See Material list for how I made these washers)
Hood Latch Parts Ready and Installed.jpg


The instructions that come with the Quick Latch kit are very good. The only changes I made was the drilling order, and to tighten up the specs on the hole sizes. I prefer a more exact fit without holes being too large.
I used a Dremel rotary tool with sanding bit to get an exact fit on the 1 1/8” holes

Hood Prop
If you are using the factory hood prop you need to do a slight modification: Here’s how:
Remove Hood Prop. Spread and remove the bracket from the Hood Prop Rod (Note the hole in the bracket is past the end of the rod itself). Re-install the bracket onto the rod with the hole not past the end of the rod. Drill a ¼” hole on the other side of the factory bracket rivet nut (for the bracket locator tab). Re-install Hood Prop. This effectively moves both ends of the Hood Prop away from the hood pins, still allowing proper operation.

Modified Hood Prop Installation and Location Shown.
Hood Prop Finished.jpg


Hood Pin Finished Look.
Added a little vinyl work around the latches. Gives them a slightly larger appearance.
Finished Shelby.jpg


QL-38-LP/BP Specifications:

Materials 6061 T6 Aluminum / 303 Stainless Steel
Holding Force: 500lbs per latch
Weight: 3.2 ounces
Height: .875 inch (22mm)
Height Below Mounting Flange: .750 inch (19mm)
OD of the latch mounting flange: 1.75 inch (44.5mm)
Thread size of latch body: 1 1/8 x 24 UNEFHole size required to mount latch: 1.25 inch (32mm)
Pin dimensions: 3/8" ball with 3/8 x 24 thread
Retaining Ring: 1.50 inch (38mm) OD x .25 inch (6.4) thickness
Minimum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 1.125 inch (28.50 mm)
Maximum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 3.50 inch (88 mm)
Maximum mounting angle: 18 degrees
Distance needed to engage pin into latch: .687 inch (17.5mm)

Materials/Tools Needed:
QL-38-LP/BP Quick Latch Hood Pin Kit, cost: $134.99
3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts (2), cost around 2.11 ea. + shipping. You can set/draw-up these using the Quick Latch hardware.
Center-punch, small hammer
Metal Hacksaw/Cut-Off saw
Dremel Rotary Tool, w/Sanding Bit
1+1/8” ID x 2” OD Aluminum Washers (2), I made my own from the 1/8" thick aluminum frying pan -Shown Below- , using the following two hole saws.
1+1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel
2 1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel


1/8" Thick Aluminum frying pan, $1.50 at the thrift store. (Was going to use wife's, but thought better of it!
Aluminum Frying Pan For Washers.jpg


Reference:
Rivet Nuts (Steel, plated) 3/8”-24 Vendors:
Fastenal PN: 0125628
McMASTER-CARR PN: 95105A152
Sherex Fastening Solutions: PN: CAL2-3724-312

Rivet Nut Installation Video:
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Demonic

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Great contribution and thanks for doing the write up on it all.
 

Tomster

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Wow, John. Nice writeup!
 

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JohnVallo

JohnVallo

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Awesome write up! Thank you. Does this help with hood flutter at all?
Yes,
This fixes the hood flutter, as well as confidence knowing the hood ain't coming up at speed...
 
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BeastAR

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Awesome review and write up. Still would feel uneasy drilling into the hood...
 
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honeybadger

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Nice work!

Out of curiosity - do you reinforce the rivnut at all? I've used a crap ton of rivnuts in my build as well, but not sure I would trust one by itself in the plastic composite with the force a hood latch would put on it. Even though I still use my OEM hood latch, I see the signs of stress on my latches.
 
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JohnVallo

JohnVallo

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Nice work!

Out of curiosity - do you reinforce the rivnut at all? I've used a crap ton of rivnuts in my build as well, but not sure I would trust one by itself in the plastic composite with the force a hood latch would put on it. Even though I still use my OEM hood latch, I see the signs of stress on my latches.
Kevin,
I thought the same thing when I first started this project.
I had these 2 nice stamped steel brackets (which I was prepared to use) that I could of easily adapted to the pins for extra support.
These happen to have a perfect angle from the Radiator Bracket to the Pins.
The area where these pins go into the radiator support, there is a hollow cavity about 1 1/2" down, and the bottom is rounded, actually quite strong.
After I saw the ribbing and strength on the carbon fiber/plastic panel I decided I didn't need to add any reinforcement, it was plenty strong enough and did not need any extra support.
Extra Pin support.jpg
 
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buggy whip

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How are the latches holding up ?
 

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I really enjoy your writeups John. Your work is always first rate. Thanks for it.
 

rick shea

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Great work!
OK, so I had the QuikLatch 50 latches installed on my 2019 GT350R Today. A better than perfect install by Justin at Cantrell Motorsports. Just to recap .......I purchased the QL 50 kit from QuikLatch. the kit comes with the lower adjustable pins and the top hood latch mechanism. I also purchased (at great expense) the bottom latch pice which has a round mounting plate and a fixed length latch rod that is not made by QuikLatch but according to the QuikLatch folks is made bt Ford Racing. It is a unique mount plate that enables the fixed length rod to have about a 15 degree moment in its seated base. This enables the rod to seat in the upper latch even if it its not exactly lined up. Honestly I was hoping the shop would just use the Ford part as a template so I could return them as the two base plates were over $800.00 .
There are several locations that one can mount the QL-50 latch, but in my option the factory location on the carbon fiber radiator mount that is common to the 2019+ GT350 and the 2020 GT500 is by far preferable. As it turns out the GT500 latch base (with only minor shimming on the drivers side, fits perfectly hight wise and on the GT350. The corresponding location on the hood is also ideal as there are two layers of aluminum that are very closely aligned and flat (unlike other location under the hood where the two layers can be have as much as an inch separation, and have contours to deal with). Notes from the installer:

Went over hood pin hardware and mounting options for best function and clean fit.

Used the factory GT500 pins on the core support. Went to hardware store and found flanged threaded inserts commonly used for a furniture application biut in stainless steel. Was able to trim them down to the proper height to match the thickness of the core support. They have small teeth that bite into the carbon material. Was able to insert them one at a time through the center hole then align and set them into place without having to cut any additional access holes in the core support.

Marked underside of hood where pins will meet. After making a pilot hole I used a 2 1/4" hole saw to cut a relief in the bend on the underside of hood to allow the retaining collar to sit flush. Cut the top layer of hood with a 1 3/8" hole saw and cleaned up with edges with a sanding drum for a tight fit. Installed quick release button latches and checked operation and alignment.


The attached pictures show the bottom pin placement, top latch from under the hood, and placement with the hood closed. Also worth noting the seems on the hood are perfect and hood itself is now very solid. When you close the hood all three(factory center latch and two new QL-50 latches engage simultaneously . All in all it is a better than OEM fitment and set up. Also note in the pictures the black factory decal on the bottom side of the hood adjacent to the latch. I read in a couple of postings that people hypothesized that those decals were potential drilling locations for the latches. They clearly are not!!
Unknown-5-1.jpeg
Unknown-6-1.jpeg
Unknown-4.jpeg
Unknown-2.jpeg
Unknown-1.jpeg
Unknown.jpeg
 
 




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