2016 GT suspension recommendations

[NightmareMoon]

If you can buy 19x11 +26, they will fit well up front, no spacers needed. They'll stick out like crazy in the back. The +56 will fit well on the rear.

Right, a set of 19x11 ET26 will fit on the front, you’ll only need some
front camber to clear the outside fenders.

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[Biggsy]

I have APEX SM-10 19x11 et +26 up front. 295/35s Continental ECS

The one in the day was before alignment. The other one was after at -1.2*. Doesn't look bad at all

 

[BmacIL]

I have APEX SM-10 19x11 et +26 up front. 295/35s Continental ECS

The one in the day was before alignment. The other one was after at -1.2*. Doesn't look bad at all

And for any track use you'll want another degree or more to prevent excess outside sidewall deflection and uneven wear. -2 deg of camber with zero or near zero toe will not see any odd wear patterns.

 

[Bluemustang]

Nice Biggsy. Thanks for that.

 

[Biggsy]

Yup I plan on adding a little bit more for street driving. I accidentally forgot to change the camber on the BMR suggested spec sheet when I left the car with the shop. Not trying to pay for another alignment just for my error.

 

[HourlyB]

Well this became about wheels and tires real fast haha. My bad.
So, when I take it to a shop for a alignment, will I need to specify the camber needed as being -1.2-2 degrees?

 

[Biggsy]

Well this became about wheels and tires real fast haha. My bad.
So, when I take it to a shop for a alignment, will I need to specify the camber needed as being -1.2-2 degrees?

I just printed out the BMR suggested alignment (see attached)

But again I forgot to add more camber on the sheet after I printed it out. But like @BmacIL said of you plan on tracking the car you will need more camber.

 

[HourlyB]

I just printed out the BMR suggested alignment (see attached)

But again I forgot to add more camber on the sheet after I printed it out. But like @BmacIL said of you plan on tracking the car you will need more camber.

So in the end I should be using around -1.75-1.8 degrees of camber? Is there any way to calculate the camber I should use? (I should figure this out for myself)

 

[Biggsy]

So in the end I should be using around -1.75-1.8 degrees of camber? Is there any way to calculate the camber I should use? (I should figure this out for myself)

A qualified shop usually prints it out. See mine attached

 

[Norm Peterson]

So in the end I should be using around -1.75-1.8 degrees of camber? Is there any way to calculate the camber I should use? (I should figure this out for myself)

There probably is, but you'd have to have access to so much information about the tires themselves, plus some sort of OE-level vehicle dynamics software (such as ADAMS) and enough experience using it that for all practical purposes the answer is 'no'.

Even if you could do all that, you'd still end up test driving whatever you came up with and potentially tweaking it from there anyway.


Norm

 

[NightmareMoon]

Re:Camber

If you don’t have camber plates, the front camber is not adjustable. You get what Ford gave you.

If you do have plates and are attempting to fit 11s, you’ll need approximately 2.3-2.5 degrees minimum to tuck the tops of the front tires under the fender. If you want to maximize your tire for track use you’d want more than 2.5 degrees or so, and at those settings, dont be surprised if you cord the inside edges after 15-20k miles if you drive on the street a lot more than the track.

Long story short - you want camber plates or those 11s will poke out significantly. If you do go for camber and lots of it, the car can be kind of amazing on track and tire wear can be pretty even.

Steeda plates work well. Vorshlag are great but $$$. Maximum Motorsports plates cap out too early and shouldn’t be chosen for this type of application.

 

[HourlyB]

There probably is, but you'd have to have access to so much information about the tires themselves, plus some sort of OE-level vehicle dynamics software (such as ADAMS) and enough experience using it that for all practical purposes the answer is 'no'.

Even if you could do all that, you'd still end up test driving whatever you came up with and potentially tweaking it from there anyway.


Norm

That's what I figured, I did not know that a alignment machine would work for a non-OEM setup.

Re:Camber

If you don’t have camber plates, the front camber is not adjustable. You get what Ford gave you.

If you do have plates and are attempting to fit 11s, you’ll need approximately 2.3-2.5 degrees minimum to tuck the tops of the front tires under the fender. If you want to maximize your tire for track use you’d want more than 2.5 degrees or so, and at those settings, dont be surprised if you cord the inside edges after 15-20k miles if you drive on the street a lot more than the track.

Long story short - you want camber plates or those 11s will poke out significantly. If you do go for camber and lots of it, the car can be kind of amazing on track and tire wear can be pretty even.

Steeda plates work well. Vorshlag are great but $$$. Maximum Motorsports plates cap out too early and shouldn’t be chosen for this type of application.

I mean, this is going to be a daily driver and one that needs to work in the winter, and if I'm wearing down a $350 tire to the cords after 20k miles, that is not a good setup.
At this point 11 inch all around is looking to be too much of a headache, especially if I'm effectively tacking another $450 for front and rear camber adjustment.

 

[BmacIL]

That's what I figured, I did not know that a alignment machine would work for a non-OEM setup.



I mean, this is going to be a daily driver and one that needs to work in the winter, and if I'm wearing down a $350 tire to the cords after 20k miles, that is not a good setup.
At this point 11 inch all around is looking to be too much of a headache, especially if I'm effectively tacking another $450 for front and rear camber adjustment.

For what you're doing, the 19x10 all around setup would be best.

Rear camber is adjustable from the factory, FYI, so more like, $250 for plates, but your point is valid.

 

[Norm Peterson]

That's what I figured, I did not know that a alignment machine would work for a non-OEM setup.

Alignment machines only measure the various alignment angles and provide a database of mfr preferred specs and allowable ranges either side of those. Beyond that, alignment is just wrench-work and it's up to the alignment tech to match the actual angles up to the desired settings - which can be what the customer requests if the shop is willing.

I mean, this is going to be a daily driver and one that needs to work in the winter, and if I'm wearing down a $350 tire to the cords after 20k miles, that is not a good setup.
At this point 11 inch all around is looking to be too much of a headache, especially if I'm effectively tacking another $450 for front and rear camber adjustment.

I agree with BmacIL; if you're not actually out there on road courses or competing in an autocross class that permits 11" wide wheels, you don't actually need that much wheel or as much tire as 11" wheels will properly support. There's no harm in wanting that much wheel/tire even if you're not ever going to use it all, but you still have to be ready to do what it takes to make it work.

Personally, I don't ever plan on getting more than about 10,000 miles per hundred treadwear or 25,000 miles out of a set of tires, and that's with no track time/miles. Tires are consumables, and if you're going to play a bit, plan on paying a bit more.


Norm

 

[HourlyB]

For what you're doing, the 19x10 all around setup would be best.

Rear camber is adjustable from the factory, FYI, so more like, $250 for plates, but your point is valid.

Gotcha! The 10 inch wheels (42mm offset & 181mm backspace) would be running with a 10mm spacer and still would need the camber plates, correct?

Alignment machines only measure the various alignment angles and provide a database of mfr preferred specs and allowable ranges either side of those. Beyond that, alignment is just wrench-work and it's up to the alignment tech to match the actual angles up to the desired settings - which can be what the customer requests if the shop is willing.



I agree with BmacIL; if you're not actually out there on road courses or competing in an autocross class that permits 11" wide wheels, you don't actually need that much wheel or as much tire as 11" wheels will properly support. There's no harm in wanting that much wheel/tire even if you're not ever going to use it all, but you still have to be ready to do what it takes to make it work.

Personally, I don't ever plan on getting more than about 10,000 miles per hundred treadwear or 25,000 miles out of a set of tires, and that's with no track time/miles. Tires are consumables, and if you're going to play a bit, plan on paying a bit more.


Norm

I think I might take it to a track every once in a blue moon, but not any sort of competition. In any case, I think 19x10 inchers with 285/40 tires at all 4 corners would be a good balance between performance and usability.
I'll probably hang onto the 11 inch wheels until winter passes and sell them in the spring, or maybe I'll just try now.

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